The 'E' Type Forum

Hi guys,

I am completely missing the rear silencer mounting. All I could find is that it is a combination of a bracket with a welded ring, a rubber inside, and a bent bolt to go through the rubber. This bolt is bolted to the floor with 2 screws.

Now, how is this bolt mounting point constructed ? I cannot believe it´s just two bolts welded onto the (weak) bottom of the tub ?

Is there a twin bolt mounting plate inside, the tub has 2 holes, and it is strengthened this way ?

I tried to find pictures of this area but no luck yet ?

Carsten

Hi Carsten, can get you a photo tomorrow of a S2 2+2 to see if there is a strengthener mine has the bolt type fitting and ring that it mounts in....is this the same for a S1

Hi Steve,

I had a look at SNG's, and yes, S2 seems to be identical.

The question is "how is part 21 fitted to the body":

http://www.sngbarratt.com/CatalogueProd ... 29&a=12629

Are the any strengtheners, or is it a seperate twin-bolt carrier being slotted through the tub just under or near the petrol tank (I pray I do not need to lift it out again !).

Many thanks,

Carsten

Here a thread with some pics:

http://tinyurl.com/jlrearexhaustmount

Martin

Hi Carsten...photo of my mount. But it is a S2 2+2....from inside cant see any fixing....the two bolts must be captive in the center channel section

Hi,

The 2+2 exhaust is different from the other cars, because the design of the long bolt incorporates a safety catch function (its inside a ring so cannot let down, just rattle when the rubber perishes).

I'll give my boot floor a very close look, but if this was not put in during production (and I am quite sure it is a repro floor), then I am in trouble....

Carsten

Okay,

I am in trouble. The boot floor has no threaded holes, just plain metal.

All I could find were 2 holes, not centred just near, 8 mm, no idea for what reason they are there. But they are 20 cm apart and will not hold the exhaust bolt, because they are orientated left-right, not front-rear.

All I can now do is bodge the darn thing. One brave idea: make a bracket to slide on top of the centre stiffener on the floor. Give it horizontal wings, drill holes, and put bolts through it. Then, buy an exhaust bolt from SNG, manufacture a plate. Weld bolt to plate all way through and along. Fit plate under car, using the bolts from the above described bracket.

This way, the load is put on a stiffener, not to the thin boot floor. The stiffeners are there for a good reason. It would be wobbly without them.

Then, it is removeable and looks well-made.

Way better then hack 2 holes in the floor, fit large spacers and hope that it lasts.

And it is centred on the centre stiffener.

Of course, I have to fit the exhaust first, front to rear, to see and measure where it must go to.

Darn, thats another few hours of work, but at least not expensive.

Carsten

Hi Carsten...how about drilling 2 holes from below up into the center stiffener and fitting 2 rivnuts then use 2 bolts to secure the exhaust bracket.......its only holding up the tail pioes

I do have a rivet gun, but these won't last.

One maybe better idea:

- Drill 2 holes in top of centre stiffener, say M16
- Drill 2 holes in floor, say 10 mm
- Put round M15 outer M10 inner washers through holes, fit M10
bolts from top in stiffener.
- maybe close M 20 holes with some kind of plastic cap.

One hmhmhm- idea:

- use angle grinder and cut top of stiffener so I can fiddle inside...do job and re-weld top. Will rust soon because not easy to protect properly after welding.

Carsten

mgcjag wrote:Hi Carsten...how about drilling 2 holes from below up into the center stiffener and fitting 2 rivnuts then use 2 bolts to secure the exhaust bracket.......its only holding up the tail pioes

Or, if originality isn't an issue, make a bracket to hold the pipes at the rear of the axle cage. I saw this arrangement on an E-Type earlier this week. The tail pipes had no resonators, and very little in the way of silencing for the centre boxes, so the noise was quite fruity!

Carsten

I feel your pain. I see also the suggestions, may I make one also. Fabricate a "top hat" channel that fits around the reinforcement channel that is on the boot floor. The "top hat" will be like an inverted U-channel with sideways flaps. I am thinking 2mm steel, sideways flaps 20mm wide, the whole thing around 100mm long. In the middle of the top-hat (i.e. in the middle of the inverted U) drill and weld in your preferred M8 or imperial bolts. Same spacing as is required for the "proper" forged exhaust hanger bracket pin thingy. Bolt heads (maybe ground down to 5mm height) stick up through the hat channel and are visible from inside the car when the spare tire is out. Heads are nicely welded to the top-bracket. Then simply drill down through the existing welded reinforcement profil and the outer floor skin with suitable 8-9mm holes. Insert your fabricated top-hat with welded bolts down through the holes. Bolt on your proper forged exhaust hanger bracket thingy. Proceed to rebuild rest of car. Hanger is now stronger that any welded-in caged-nuts, and 10x stronger than any rivnuts. You could hang the entire car from the hanger.....

rgds

Next idea:

I coud use two long bolts which have those flat round heads and a small square on the end of the shaft part. Then drill 2 holes, file them square, put long bolts through. Mount carrier bolt directly.

Carsten

Agree. Coach bolts as they're known. Certainly the quickest and easiest solution. And probably best looking. That's that decided then!

Carsten - Rivnuts are not just alloy rivets as you may think. They are threaded inserts and need a special fitting tool.

The shell was rebuilt in the mid-nineties when I doubt that model-specific boot floor panels were available.

Chris, that car had no resonators so there would be much less cantilever force than a stock exhaust, plus the IRS cage moves significantly so I would be wary of mounting a standard exhaust to it.