The 'E' Type Forum

Over the last couple of years I have had to replace the rear wheel bearings on a couple of e-types. I made up a jig to remove the hub from its carrier (both on wire wheels) which works quite well.

Once the hub has been removed from the carrier the outer bearing remains in situ. On both occasions I have had to resort to angle grinding the bearing off which does need due care and attention.

Does anyone know of a heavy duty bearing puller currently for sale that will undertake the removal with ease as I have tried a couple of different makes but they are just not up to the job - even when an acetylene torch has heated the bearing up.

Thanking you in advance.

Alex

To get the outer bearing inner race off the hub I use a wedge type puller, no heat:

http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/industrial ... ing-puller

Put the wedge bits on to catch the race, add the bridge screw bits to that, fit the bridge with a bronze pad to protect the inboard end of the hub and snug up the jackscrew. Once you get a little bit of motion out of the jackscrew, loosen the jackscrew, snug up the wedge and repeat.

If you skip the loosen, snug repeat you may get the bearing off, but the tool won't last very long and you'll end up having to dress the wedge with a grinder every time you use it. Depending on your specific details this will really annoy the guy who you borrowed it from, the guy who you lend it to, yourself, or all 3.

Andrew

I have each time used a long drift and heavy lump hammer . It requires careful positioning not to damage the carrier as there is only a small lip available on the inner diameter of the bearing race , but once started the bearing race can fairly readily be drifted down using the technique of going radially round it at perhaps 20 degree intervals

Same for me it is THE tool for this job.



Mich

Hi Alex....a 20 ton press.....really usefull tool.....wedge shape plates under the bearing and press off £120 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Hy ... SwoJZXRr4P

Hi Alex....a 20 ton press.....really usefull tool.....wedge shape plates under the bearing and press off

If I had to choose between a press and an Oxy-Gas torch I would take the press every time.

The links on these previous posts are down, so I thought I'd re-float the question.

I'm faced with removing the outer race (closest to the splines) and there is virtually no lip available to go for.

I have in the past resorted to breaking off cages and MIG-welding a couple of blobs onto the inner race so that a drift can get a grip, the immediate heat from the MIG helping recalcitrant separation, BUT it's a bit nasty and it's about time I had a proper clamp-wedge puller like Mich shows.

Everyone seems to sell the same crap sets for under £50, different boxes but same contents, do they actually work or can I spend £150 and find something more professionnal ?

https://www.google.com/search?q=bearing ... 1&dpr=1.25

Could anyone suggest suitable tools they've used for this job ?

There is virtually nothing to get a bite on with my current pairing of bearing and hub.





Thought I'd also post some shots of what I've been meaning to do for years, which is make a proper jig to carry the end-float dial-guage, plus a decent slab of marine-ply to make everything more stable













Writing what the stuff does is getting more and more necessary as I'm increasingly faced with tools that were made for reasons that escape me :-)))

Rory,
You well known the answer, for £50 you have a really bad tool of course, Purhaps it will work without hurting your original Jaguar parts, purhaps not. I sell tools all day long and it's a pitty to sell this kind of tools.
There's really not a garage near you ? You'll need this bearing separator only for these rear bearing. Try to rent one, it take you half an hour for this job.
Keep your £50 for a restaurant, you'll get more joice !
Mich
PS: Your handwriting is a killer ! I'd love to weite like that.

commemorative74 wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 18, 2016 8:50 pm

Once the hub has been removed from the carrier the outer bearing remains in situ. On both occasions I have had to resort to angle grinding the bearing off which does need due care and attention.

It looks like what Ales is talking about is removing the outer bearing shell from within the hub carrier.

I do what Christopher does. I use a BIG cold chisel that I have ground a flat on the edge of the tip to get purchase, and a big hammer.

Annoying job.

I have one of the cheap bearing seperator kits.....sharpend/ground down the lip that goes under the bearing...i use it to grip under the bearing then rig the whole thing in a 20t standard type press with a couple of bits of steel bar under the bearing seperator and press it off......assuming your going to change the bearing anyway you only need to grip under the outer ball cage usually.......basically just rig something up with what you have in the garage and get it in the press...simple.....Steve

abowie wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 16, 2022 1:05 am

commemorative74 wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 18, 2016 8:50 pm

Once the hub has been removed from the carrier the outer bearing remains in situ. On both occasions I have had to resort to angle grinding the bearing off which does need due care and attention.

It looks like what Ales is talking about is removing the outer bearing shell from within the hub carrier.

I do what Christopher does. I use a BIG cold chisel that I have ground a flat on the edge of the tip to get purchase, and a big hammer.

Annoying job.

No, the original poster is indeed talking about the complete taper race that sits on the hub shaft, and not the two bearing tracks that sit in the alloy hub, which are indeed relatively easy to remove, as he refers to grinding it off - which is (en passant) quite unnecessary.

Steve's use of the bearing splitter appears to vindicate the cheap stuff on offer, which I will buy as it's about time I had these for other jobs.

However, I believe that even with a splitter it is a better idea to get an initial gap, using a chisel (seen in the picture) on the still-in-place rollers, or failing that - having removed the cage and rollers - directly on the lip, as the bearing splitter then has some meat to get hold of.

With my parts there was not even a vestige of a taper or bevel to help a bearing splitter start a gap.



Once you've got a gap, a simply two-legged puller will get the inner track off - for the efforts required, which you could probably measure in 100's of kilos in my case, it didn't seem worth using the press.

rfs1957 wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 16, 2022 10:39 am

No, the original poster is indeed talking about the complete taper race that sits on the hub shaft, and not the two bearing tracks that sit in the alloy hub

I agree that his description sounds like removing the inner bearing, and probably is, but he does refer to it as the "outer bearing".

On good quality tooling, the levers are thin and do not need to spread the bearing. The press fit of the two half shells forces the bearing underneath. But for this you need very good quality steel.
It saves time, nerves and when you don't succeed, it's not the tools that are to blame but the way you use them!
Obviously it doesn't do your wallet any good...