Changing to wire wheels

[Bernie2015]

I am changing my wheels from standard to wires (Series 2 2+2) and am scratching my head over fitting the new rear hubs. Does anyone know if the shock absorbers/suspension needsto be diconnected to get the wire wheel hubs in position or is it an easy swap over?

[JagWaugh]

In a word, no, it is not an easy changeover.

The easiest way to do it is to remove the nuts on the outer end of the halfshafts, take the shocks out, disconnect the halfshafts at the disc, pull the outer fulcrumshafts then take the hubcarrier and halfshaft over to a press, support the carrier so you can press the yoke out of the hub.

"Aha" you say, "But I can borrow a hub puller." This is correct. Measuring the spacer you need for your new hubs is a LOT easier on the bench, regardless of if you have a puller or a press.

It is possible to do it with the hubcarrier still connected at the outer fulcrum, but I wouldn't do this voluntarily. I would also fit new seals and bearings while I was at it.

Have a nice weekend.

Andrew

[Bernie2015]

Thanks Andrew I think!

[JagWaugh]

Sorry if I pee'd on your fireworks mister...

Read through the shop handbook section on replacing the hub bearings and measuring the spacer. This will give you a better idea about just that bit. Then get the car up on a lift and have a good look at shocks, springs, seals, U/J, pads, discs, calipers and the IRS mounts etc. Avoid shipwrights disease, but there is a point where it is smarter to say "Ok, I might as well do a few more things". Without being able to look at the car I can't tell.

Andrew

[Bernie2015]

Hi Andrew,

I did as you said but were having trouble getting the axle out of the housing. We have left it under pressure in a press tonight with some penetrating oil hoping to loosen it up. I read there may be a circlip somewhere but unable to find one so presume bearing is just rusted in. Any thoughts?

[Bernie2015]

Also you mentioned a spacer could you explain where should this go. Many thanks Bernie

[mgcjag]

Hi Bernie.....it was quite common in the past for locktite to be used on the splines.....you might need a bigger press have a look in the service manual it explains the removal and bearing procedure

[JagWaugh]

Also you mentioned a spacer could you explain where should this go. Many thanks Bernie

Bernie,

You really need the shop manual if you are going to do this kind of work.

The spacer is part number 34 in http://www.limora.com/en/british-cars/j ... riers.html This is a shim which is chosen to get the bearing endfloat correct, it's exact size is dependent on the manufacturing tolerances of the hubs, carriers, and bearings. The manual refers to using a special tool (JD15) which is used with a DI to determine the spacer thickness... I made a JD15 which is available to the community which you can use, but I'm not sure who actually has it at the moment (Carsten?). Failing that you can just order the thickest available spacer and with the use of a bit of arithmetic make the same measurement.

The splined shafts were originally loctited in place... it can take 10-20 tons in a press to push the yoke out. No rust, no circlip.


Andrew

[Bernie2015]

Thats great info thanks do you know who sells the spacers?

[mgcjag]

Try the usualls

[Bernie2015]

Have fitted hubs to front wheels but sadly the disc doesn't sit in middle of the caliper now. Do I need to buy offset discs as well or does anyone know of another method?

[Mich7920]

How much is the gap ?
If It's small you have some shims avalable to center the calipers
Mich

[JagWaugh]

Have fitted hubs to front wheels but sadly the disc doesn't sit in middle of the caliper now. Do I need to buy offset discs as well or does anyone know of another method?

The discs are the same regardless of Steel or Wire wheel hubs. Compare the hat height of the two discs. There are shims to align the calipers, but these don't normally need adjusting when replacing worn discs. How big of a gap are you talking about?

[Bernie2015]

Sorry I probably didnt explain very well. Now the calipers have been fitted back on and the new wire hubs are in place the disc doesn't sit centrally in the gap in the caliper (in the vertical plane).

There disc is nearly touching the body of the caliper on the inboard side of the car and quite a large gap exists on the outboard side - almost to the point that it would bind on the disc when the wheel is rotated. If anything it would appear the caliper needs to go further inboard or the disc come further outboard to locate the positions centrally.

[JagWaugh]

What you describe makes me think that either the discs are not right, or the hubs. If you compare the hat heights of the old vs the new discs and they are the same, and you've re fitted the calipers as they were before you took them off, then it sounds like you might have the wrong hubs, or someone changed the uprights (which works out to the same as having the wrong hubs).

Posting a picture might help.

[mgcjag]

Hi Bernie......can you explain exactly what new parts you have put on and what original parts have you reused...also are you sure tne discs were central befor you started the change

[Bernie2015]

IMG_1180.JPG (57.56 KiB) Viewed 11532 times

This shows the disc off centre. I have only added new bearings and hubs for wire wheels. I have spoken to MWS re hubs and SNG Barratt re bearings and both are correct. Mysterious!!

[mgcjag]

Hi Barrie.....well tbere you go...if the discs were central befor? it can only be the bearing or hub......even though tbe suppliers say they are correct it dosent mean that they are the same dimensions as what you have taken off....so the easy option is space out the caliper

[JagWaugh]

Take all the new bits back off and measure them, comparing them to the old bits. Somewhere you've lost about 1/4", so you should be able to pick this up with just a 6" ruler. I would space the caliper back for the sake of 3/32" or less, but 1/4" would make me want to see what was wrong.

[neil4444]

My only thought was did any spacers/shims drop out when you disconnected the callipers ?