The 'E' Type Forum

I am just about to replace the front crank seal and have noticed that there have been a number of comments about the Teflon material now used and its need for lubrication and thus the removal of the thrower. I have not got the lengthened sleeve but plan to use a machined down thrower as a "washer" to keep the thickness. Has anyone tried this? I will be polishing the old spacer.
Stuart

The only difference would be that the longer sleeve has a machined "pocket" on the rear inner radius to accommodate an O-ring, which provides a seal between the crank surface and the sleeve. That O-ring blocks oil from migrating forward and seeping out of the front of the crankshaft (around the big bolt area).

I should note that I (and others) have experienced great difficult with making a Teflon seal fit properly in the timing cover groove. When compared side by side with a conventional lip seal, the shape and diameter of the outer surface is apparent. It is too large and thick, and if installed as delivered, the lip WILL distort and result in a leak. I spent a full day carefully reshaping the radius of the Teflon item to the groove in the cover...and that was with the engine out of the car and on an engine stand. Then I "glued" it into the groove with high quality sealant. I honestly can't imagine how it could be successfully installed on an engine while in the chassis...a friend of mine tried it twice and it leaked both times. The seal in my car did not leak on initial start up, but it has only run for about ten minutes total (leaking water pump seal)...so time will tell. Another local owner also installed one with the engine out of the car, and it is leak free. If your engine is in the car, you might want to consider using a conventional lip seal.

If you are fitting a Teflon seal you should use a new seal runner.

I will have the sump off so I was hoping that any irregularities in the fit of the new crank seal could be dealt with on the bench. Thank you for the comments......my reason for doing the replacement of the seal is not because it is leaking but because there is sludge in the bottom of the sump which needs to be removed. I have been advised that I should replace the crank seal at the same time, hence my question.
Stuart

If you try the Teflon seal, you might search old posts by Glen Jarboe (poster nickname)/Teflon seal on Jag-lovers. He had some photos in his albums of the distortion problem when attempting to install the seal without reshaping the outside edge. I followed his recommendations when installing the one in my engine. A Dremel tool with a sanding drum works reasonably well for carving the outer radius of the seal to fit. Helps to have an original style lip seal to use as a guide. Good luck.

Thanks....will keep you posted.