The 'E' Type Forum

I cannot get this off. The collar is seized inside the tube.

Anyone got any tips?

I have twisted it with stilsons so much I started to worry I would bend the Reynolds frame.

Do I have to start drilling?

I cannot see any alternative at the moment.

Thanks, James

Yes they rust in. Stilsons should do it.

Hi,

Instead of working by this side, Pinch the "bearing" into a vise and move the front sub frame.
You are going to be more strong than with your stilson.
Warm the front sub frame near the bearing and use something like WD40.
Move slowly, don't force, apply warm+WD40 and move again you'll get it.

Mich

Thanks chaps,

Mich, the frame is on the car, you mean I should take it off I assume.

I wasn't going to, but I suppose I could.

I shall try a bit harder with the stilsons first, I haven't broken out the acetylene yet, heat is an option. Not too much though.

Yes of course the frame out I thought it was !
The problem with the Stilson is that you don't manage the frame twist.
For the warm I prefer warm air gun, in a lot of case 600° is enought and there's no flame.
Sometimes it doen't work. Not enought rapid so you need the acetylene.
Mich

I had that problem about a year ago.

1) Cut the flange off as here(with the hinge bolt back in):


2) Stack oversized washers and a large nut. The remains of the hinge pin will be drawn through the center of the stack of nuts washers as here:

Sorry for the focus!

3) Wrench:


4) Done:


Hope that helps!

Your front frame is steel, not reynolds. Trying to get one of my bolts out I overdid it with the heat, and undid the brazing. Scared me at first, but it turned out to be a good thing. I was able to drill out the rest of the torn bolt and the fitting. Cleaned everything up and brazed it back in. So I was able to fit new bushings and new bolts and new nylons.

Thanks Gents, that is very helpful.

I am off to the hardware store to get a suitable stack of washers/tube.

Now why didn't I think of that.

I shall post the exciting update later. hopefully.

James

nefematic wrote:Your front frame is steel, not reynolds.

I'm not sure you are correct about that. The picture frame is steel, but the bonnet frame, as with the rest of the tube frames, is Renolds as far as I know - hence the brazing rather than welding

I might not understand - the trick with the washers shouldn't work?! The (original) bolt is threaded into the brazed-on endpiece in the frame. The actual bonnet hinge is not threaded, just rusted into the endpiece, so fastening the bolt will only tighten the washers on to the frame. Now if you cut a thread in to the bonnet hinge piece, different story. Am I missing something? I don't recall where I got the notion about the bonnet frame not being reynolds. I'll check that one.

Martin

Agree with you martin

Just a very minor detail that I neglected to remember. Probably because I don't have a picture of me cutting the threads.

YES, you need threads in the remainder of the hinge piece. Sorry.

Of course you need thread but it's a part welded into tube of the frame.
What is called bearing is not threaded and it's the part James want to remove. # jag C19330
You have also 2 nylon bush to make the Bonnet Hinges smooth.

Yes Mich,

It looks like a thread has been cut into the remains of the top hat, the a metric bolt screwed in. The bolt head is pushing against the large nut and the washers, then finally the tube frame to create the tension required to extract the hinge.

James

Oupss its' a metric ?

I dont know. It looks like a metric thread to me.

I dont suppose it matters as after it comes out it is going to be binned.

I have a good tap and die set, so will have a go at the w/end.

weld an m16 or m20 nut (can't remember which) and screw a length of studding into this with another nut to lock it tight, you might be able to turn it a bit then to free it
if not
slide on the hammer in my case a bit of 3" bar with a hole with @1-2 mm clearance on the studding
the studding was @ 600mm long.with a 20mm thick plate secure by a couple of nuts behind the plate
Essentially a bloody big slide hammer that did the job after a couple of whacks for me

Well all sorted now.

I cut the top hat flange off and heated the collar up a bit.

i also tried the hot wax trick after I had wire brushed it.

Anyway, the fact is it doesn't matter how much you twist the collar with stilsons. The collar will self destruct and go oval first. Have a look.
Out it came.

I checked the fit of the new collar. It would not go inside the tube until I has cleaned it up nicely with the Dremel.

All good now, so I spent the next 5 hours refinishing the frames.

I feel I have removed 50 years of knocks and scratches. I also removed the annoying dents where the motor had scraped in previous removals.

Might get my engine in next week.

I don't think anybody mentioned planishing - walloping the outer tube simultaneously with two hammers from opposite sides. In practice it might be better to use a heavy piece of metal on one side & wallop from the other. This will stretch the metal a bit & open it up, although I have to say that in this case the tube looks rather thick for this to work. If I don't have access to oxy-acetylene (which is always my preferred method) I will resort to planishing.