The 'E' Type Forum

Hi , trial fitted my Elite T5 gearbox to rear of engine tonight , the clutch actuating arm has about 2 mm of free play before the release bearing meets the clutch cover pressure pad , and when I levered the arm fully across with gear box in 1st gear , my wife was able to turn the output flange of gearbox and if I slowly released clutch arm the flange would slowly get stiffer to turn ,a'la clutch is progressively engaging, all good ???
When i had levered the arm all the way across i noticed it was stopping on/against the bell housing to gbox adapter plate ( and not to the edge of the arm's hole / void ) ,AND even though my wife could turn the flange quite easily there was still a light rubbing sound (shhh shhh ) between clutch and flywheel face , while its still all out ,ive pulled the box from the back of engine now , I feel it would be rude not to file out about 3 mm from the adaptor plate and let the arm travel that little bit further , has anyone on here had any clutch disengagement problems with the T 5 box , and does anyone know what the ratio of the arm is ? I:e does 1mill of extra throw on the outside add 10 ft on the inside ?? (WEll you know what I mean )
Cheers for any ideas

Oops sorry ment to post in tec , any chance it can be moved please , regards, Darren

dal2.0litrefrogeye wrote:... does anyone know what the ratio of the arm is ? I:e does 1mill of extra throw on the outside add 10 ft on the inside ?? (WEll you know what I mean )
Cheers for any ideas

1.5:1 reduction. i.e, your adjustment changing by 1.5 mm will change the clearance by 1 mm.

Dry clutches can make some faint rubbing noise. Ask Rory about Italian race bikes.

I had the same issue with mine. I removed some material from the adapter plate right next to the release arm. I removed enough to allow the release arm full movement rearwards without any contact.

I can send you some pics if that helps.

Cheers.

Cheers for replies. Thanks for offer Simon but ok there ? Was yours the same symptom as mine and did taking the metal out make the flange rotate "alot " easier ? , or what was it that made you releave the adaptor plate
Darren

Hi Darren,

I didn't do any actual tests of the mechanism apart from moving the release arm backwards where it then hit the adapter plate. Just by looking at it, I could tell that it would 'probably' prevent the release arm from fully releasing. I removed enough material to allow the release arm to have full travel up until it hit the rearward end of the slot on the bellhousing, and thus able to fully disengaged.

Cheers.

Thanks Simon

I had the same issue. Posted about it here also. I ended up using the 10" Series 1 clutch housing and throw bearing with the T5 supplied clutch plate to address the issue.

I had the same issue, resolved as suggested and documented here
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1393

Just a conclusion. I filed some material out of the adaptor plate . Refitted box to engine. And fitted the whole schaboodle into car . And as soon as I could piped up clutch pedal. Bled system (with bleed screw at bottom of slave cylinder ) really easily . And with out playing with rod adjustment had a good clutch pedal which leaves the gearbox flange to move freely with clutch down and box in 1st or reverse and slowly getting stiffer as pedal lifts .

Good result there Darren! Which part of the adaptor plate did you reduce?

Have you had it turning yet with the engine. Do so as soon as you can. I still get a bit of noise from mine which I think is from the needle bearings. Experience with these boxes says to try and test them as much as possible before committing them fully. As you discovered, it's a tight squeeze getting these things in and out past the ears and around the torsion plate.