The 'E' Type Forum

evening all

engine is now successfully on the stand and disassembly is going pretty well...but i seem to have an issue with the distance piece at the end of the crankshaft....it rotates smoothy when in its intended location but when i try to remove it it will slide to about half way along its Woodruf key slot and then its stops...see photo



feels like its hitting/touching something...or is it just stiff....I don't know if this is normal or not so I though I should ask how this is meant to be removed...does it require a puller...?....I have made sure the slot for the key is free from burrs...but now I am stumped

help please
thanks
Jonathan

Jonathan : it's probable that the inner face of the distance piece where it abuts on the woodruff key has some irregularity on it . I should use some grease, and a puller if you've got one. If no puller is available , a block of wood behind the piece, and hefty whacks with a rubber or wooden mallet as nearly in line with the axis of the crank as you can get , will probably do the job

Excellent, many thanks Christopher...puller duly bought this morning and the ring is now off....the end of the crank is seemingly a touch larger in diameter than at the point where the sprocket and distributer gear sit, as the gear sprocket is also binding...
Always makes a job easier when you know you're doing the right thing !

Next challenge is the locking nut on the distributor shaft...that's resisting efforts to undo

Regards
Jonathan

Block the scare axle with a key and unscrew the big nut.
Beware to the bronze pignon...

Hi Michel

I have removed the sprocket and the distributor gear wheel so now the end of the crankshaft is fully cleared

The end of the distributor spindle can be locked with a 3/8 spanner against the pump housing bracket you can see in the picture and I have an adjustable spanner on the locking nut, (it measures 22.2mm across the flats and I don't have a spanner close enough size) an extension arm on that (a tubular jack handle) and nothing is budging....in fact the jaws of the 3/8 spanner are deforming

It feels wrong...why would such a nut be so tight....what am assuming doing wrong..

I am correct in thinking this is a regular right hand thread so I turn anti-clockwise (when looking as per my photograph that is) to release..?

Thanks
Jonathan

Hi Jonathan,

It's a regular right-hand thread. I don't remember that nut being a struggle - do you have an impact gun?

Cheers.

It is a standard right hand thread. You have knocked the tab down I assume
Think you need a correct fit socket and then a sharp tap should do it.

Hi Jonathan,
Pleased to see your engine in on its stand and in safe...

Sure it's a standard nut and your tap washer is well flat
If it don't unscrew , you can heat it with a warm air gun.
In its life a mechanical put perhaps a sealant glue.
Normaly with heat every nuts unscrew. Be patient.
It's important to have the good tools too.
Sorry but a spanner is really the last tool to use. It open all the time when the nut is too tighten.
Nobody can lend you the good key ? For 22.2mm it's 7/8"

Thanks guys, good to know all that....

Mich...you're totally correct...the adjustable was a last resort, and then I thought better of it and called it a day...I have now ordered a 7/8 spanner and also a 3/8 square (8 point) socket...and for that matter a 7/32 and 1/4 hex bit sockets so I can hopefully release the crank seal casting and the plugs in the crankshafts smoothly..!

...and yes the engine is safely on the stand...fantastic to have it at the right height ....:)

All the best
Jonathan