Door Drains

[ETTony]

Thanks Alan
Overthinking the task

[tonyabacus]

A bit late to this topic but a tip for those along later.

The water deflectors shown at the start can make it awkward to work inside the door and sometimes need removing which can be a pain drilling out the rivets etc. An easier solution to the whole problem is to use some stiff rubber strip and small stainless self tappers and washers. I have cut the rubber to fit across the apertures but have extended them with some small wings each side that tuck inside the apertures. These wings ensure that any water still drains into the door bottom.

The rubber may bow out towards the interior to start with, but I recommend fitting a sheet of polythene across the whole door for good measure which will not only hold the rubber back into the door casing, but prevents the inner trim panel from getting wet and distorting. Either spray glue around the edges(standard practice now on new cars), or use double sided tape.
Tony

[Philippe-J.]

I am resurrecting this thread eleven years later because I found the rests of the orange covers seen on the photo of post # 5, on my 67 OTS doors. Willing to replace those I was wondering if anyone here knows the material they are made of and where to find it? It looks like the fiber washer material , a sort of fiber cardboard.
Thanks for your information.

[rfs1957]

Part numbers are there in the post, non ?

Try the Usuals, certainly Hutsons.

Mine are circa 1mm sheet steel. Easy enough to make from stainless.

If I were to do mine again I would make them from the cheeks of a 20 litre pool-chemical can, flat white HDPE ? which would be a lot quieter, and I would hold them in with Yamaha plastic push-rivets, which make them QD.

[Philippe-J.]

Thank you Rory for your answer. However are we talking about the same parts? My question is about the small covers (approx. 7x11 cm²) that protect the winder spring mechanism.
Anyway I retain your idea for the water deflectors, as I found my metal ones so rusty!

[Mich7920]

Hi Philippe

You'll find " ISOREL" 3mm in the wood section of any good DIY store.

Mich

[PierreW]

you can also use epoxy or bakelite plates like those used for printed circuits. To remove copper, nothing could be easier: a little hydrochloric acid mixed with a little hydrogen peroxide...it goes away in 2 minutes!

[Philippe-J.]

Many thanks, all those sound good ideas, I'll give them a try
Philippe