Series 1 - wiper motor refurbishment needed

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 2:28 pm

nope its no good - despite all the forum help I cant get the wiper motor to work (at all) either in the car or on the workbench so I guess the windings are dead / burnt out / broken etc.

Looking at the usual parts suppliers - the cost for a refurbished motor from them is near enough ?200 which is a bit steep seeing as how little there is inside of the casing.

Does anyone know who actually refurbishes the wiper motors for the main suppliers?

I already know NOT to send off the motor with the mounting plates still attached :)

Kent Thirley · Post by **Kent Thirley** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 6:04 pm

Hi,

Just sent my wiper motor off to Steve Hunt.

He is based in Birmingham & does the refurb for around ?125 plus Vat.

He is on Ebay as - tankard03

His contact number is 07885 186111.

Hope this helps out?

Kent

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:51 am

Thanks Kent, when it comes back to you can you let me know how good you think the refurbishment is? perhaps post a picture or two on this thread?

I have already refurbished the casing and greased the wormscrew and wiper drive disc etc - i certainly wasnt expecting it to not work... so I am more interested in how well the refurbished motor functions than how it looks :)

His 'shop' only shows a series motor for a Series 2&3 for ?125 but shows a ford 105e item that "looks" the same for ?120 but its only a single speed.

Your forum picture is a S1 so presumably the price was for a series 1?

Thanks for responding

Kent Thirley · Post by **Kent Thirley** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 10:03 am

Hi Chris,

I will issue a full report when it comes back.

Yes I have a series 1 FHC 1967 car.

Kent

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 2:27 pm

Chris : have you checked continuity through the thermal cutout ? If it is defective it can be bypassed by connecting to green wire direct to the brush terminal which has the black wire from the cutout attached to it . Also, it is not uncommon for the commutator to require a spin or two, with voltage applied, to get it going initially . I usually do this by taking the large gear wheel out, and giving the spur gear a turn with long nosed pliers . You should also be able to check the integrity of the windings with any type of continuity tester - the resistance should be small

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:49 pm

Thanks Chris...

I have now taken the motor apart again to have a look and...

I see that someone has already bypassed the thermal cutout and soldered the green and black wires together...

However I took the oppotunity to take a photo of the inside of the motor and labelled the colours as per a previous forum post from you Chris...

Hopefully I have this right - if i havnt then I am connecting the wrong wires together when i test it... I have continuity from the brushes to the wires

The black wire from the thermal cutout is connected to the same tag as the blue wire

Do I have this right? As you can see the colours are not exactly obvious to the naked eye

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:03 pm

Your descriptions look exactly right to me . It might be wise to check whether if you pass 12v to the green wire , you are getting 12v at the lh brush terminal ( to which the blue and black wires appeared to be attached . I would also run a soldering iron over each of the terminals to try and eliminate the possibility of their being dry-jointed. I have had the infuriating experience of the wires apparently being connected on a continuity test, but in fact refusing to pass any current because the resistance of the joint was so high, and I now remelt solder almost as a matter of course on eg tachos because of this . It may seem strange, but does it smell alright? Usually if any of the coils or commutator have burnt, you get that horribly acrid burnt shellac smell which apparently lasts for ever. Also ( and I hope I am not teaching my grandmother to suck eggs) have you a. cleaned the commutator and b. cleaned the gaps between the segments to clear any debris which may be shorting the segments out?

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:42 pm

Great more tips :D keep them coming please. Anything to save at least ?125.

No I havn't cleaned between the segments and only lightly cleaned the commutator - i will do both of those next. Electricery is not really my skill base so I didn't know about things like that. Which is probably why I am struggling with the rest of the cars wiring as well

I will re-solder all the wires though as a high resistance joint makes sense...

Thanks

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:45 pm

Steve Hunt does a good job of refurbing the mechanicals not just the electrical aspects. I had my superficially pretty refurbed S1 motor give trouble this year after only a few hours total operation. I couldn't strip it without breaking the seal and voiding whatever warranty it had. Trouble was, I forgot who'd sold me the motor but Steve did the job right when he discovered it had seized solid.

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:19 pm

I still cant get my motor to work so I gave Steve Hunt a call...

For a series 1 motor the cost is ?135 + vat + carriage which is a little less than the likes of SNG but at least you can talk to the guy who does the work if you encounter issues later...

Any feed back Ken? Yours must be returned about now....

Kent Thirley · Post by **Kent Thirley** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:33 pm

Just got the Motor back yesterday morning Chris,

Looks like new......probably the best bit under my bonnet!!!!

Very happy!

265bhp · Post by **265bhp** » Wed Apr 10, 2013 9:32 pm

Hi all

Thought I would rekindle this thread as I am stripping my wiper motor

All in pieces, cleaned and when reassembled I can get the low speed configuration to work OK
On a bench test there is a circuit for both the low and the high speed scenarios...but in the high speed version, the armature spindle doesn't turn...perhaps a shorting out somewhere..so suggesting the yellow wire is at fault....

I have scrutinised all the wires and can't find any bare wires

Could anyone help..I know it could go to Steve Hunt..but I want to try and fix it myself

Thanks

Jonathan

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 5:58 pm

Good timing Jonathan - I've just stripped down my wiper mechanism. Once the body and assemblies are cleaned and painted, I will begin testing.

I've also drawn out the circuit diagrams as it is not detailed in the manual!

I'll be watching this thread with interest.

265bhp · Post by **265bhp** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:53 pm

Hi Simon

Internal workings are also shown in this thread..bottom of the page shows the wiring inside the motor casing...

http://www.stretton.tv/DR1%20motor.html

Regards
Jonathan

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:58 pm

Are we sure this is the same as the E-Type? As far as I know it used the Lucas DL3, DL3A and 15W motors.

265bhp · Post by **265bhp** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 10:24 pm

Hello David
I fear I may have been too eager in posting that, DL3 is indeed the correct motor type, if anyone does have this kind of diagram for the DL3 that would be appreciated, this one is similar but apologies, not quite correct
Regards
Jonathan

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Series 1 - wiper motor refurbishment needed

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