Headlight chrome trim

Talk about the E-Type Series 1

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Bobpipedream
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#1 Headlight chrome trim

Post by Bobpipedream » Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:19 pm

Hi all,

Just looking at my headlight trims and bar a couple of dings, I think they are okay. New ones seem to be very expensive at ?150 each. Does anyone make stainless steel ones in case I can not straighten them? Or are they expensive to get re chromed?

Thanks,

Bob

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Heuer
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#2

Post by Heuer » Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:36 pm

Get them repaired or buy repro chrome plated ones as anything stainless steel will have a different hue to chrome so look very odd, unless you intend to swap every piece of chrome plate for stainless - bumpers, wheels, window surrounds, bonnet beading, light clusters etc.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX

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ChrisC
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#3

Post by ChrisC » Sun Jan 13, 2013 3:01 pm

I recommend getting them repaired and rechromed the new ones I have seen didn't look quite right but perhaps that just me. Rechroming as a guide is about 75% of the cost of replacing new. The big advantage is that you know it fits
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk

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Bobpipedream
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#4

Post by Bobpipedream » Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:43 pm

Thanks for the answers.

I may be able to clean them up sufficiently. Couple of small dings however may cause issue with the chrome. I will use a rubber mallet and take it slowly.

I think the general consensus on stainless has changed my mind against it.

That guide of 75% cost for rechroming against new sounds good to me. I have budgeted a big chunk for the chrome work and would much prefer just to box it all up and send it off. I think I will try to get some quotes this week.

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1954Etype
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#5

Post by 1954Etype » Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:15 pm

Bob, repair them first, then make sure they fit, put them away and get them chromed as a job lot when you are ready to use them. That way you can get the best deal and any issues with the rechroming can be found instantly giving you a better chance of getting it rectified free.
Angus 67 FHC 1E33656
61 OTS 875047

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abowie
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#6

Post by abowie » Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:13 pm

ChrisC wrote: The big advantage is that you know it fits
Which is very important. I've just been watching someone trying to fit poorly fitting repro ones. Not happy.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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the doc
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#7

Post by the doc » Thu Jan 31, 2013 2:18 am

just got a pair from SNG barratt and they are beautiful and fit perfectly.


Gary
63 FHC
887465

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the doc
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#8

Post by the doc » Sun May 12, 2013 11:34 pm

And speaking of Headlamp surrounds ? any tips on terminating the top wing beading to prevernt water from entering in under the surround gasket ? should one flatten the end before tucking under neath the surround gasket?

Gary
63 FHC
887465

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the doc
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#9

Post by the doc » Tue May 14, 2013 3:41 pm

Anyone have any suggestions to my previous question above?

Gary
63FHC
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ChrisC
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#10

Post by ChrisC » Tue May 14, 2013 3:57 pm

You can easily put a small amount of rubber sealant on the beading under the trim. There is no need to flatten it.

One suggestion:
Sikaflex can be shaped to fit by squeezing some into the area you want it. cover it with cling-film and refit the chrome surround (wiping off any that you dont want seen)

Next day remove the chrome trim and peel off the cling film and voila - a custom rubber seal. Be warned Sikaflex is damn hard to remove once its set... but it is very effective as a waterproof seal.

Or alternativly - be like me and dont drive your car in the rain :)
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk

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#11

Post by the doc » Tue May 14, 2013 4:01 pm

thanks for the tip ! no plans to drive it in the rain but washing it migh have proved challenging .
thanks again !

gary
63 FHC
887465

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Heuer
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#12

Post by Heuer » Tue May 14, 2013 4:35 pm

Angus and I were talking to Harry about this when we visited E-Type UK. They have tried flattening the end of the strip so it fits under the headlamp surround or alternatively shaping/filing the surround to accommodate the strip. My method is to use a 2" brass rod pushed into the strip so the surround clamps down on the protruding bit. I still get water in the sugar scoop though! Angus swears by Dum-Dum putty moulded to shape and it seems to be very effective. It does not harden so removal is relatively simple. Unfortunately it is no longer available but this product has been recommended by the manufacturer of Dum Dum as the closest replacement currently available. http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-121-putty.aspx
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX

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#13

Post by 1954Etype » Tue May 14, 2013 4:48 pm

I think the factory used a large tin of dum-dum on every car! On the original FHC I stripped, I was even under the data plate! (I assume to stop water lying there).
Angus 67 FHC 1E33656
61 OTS 875047

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