Front suspension ride height

[andrewh]

I am being lazy and wonder whether anyone can point me in the right direction to get my E back on its wheels. I do not have the engine and box ready to go in yet but want to move the car on its own wheels so need to temporarily fix the torsion bars to hold the suspension in an approximate position to move the car. I am planning on buying an adjustable torsion bar reaction plate which I will fit when the engine is finally returned back into the car. So is there a quick cheat to get the torsion bars somewhere approximate without having to go through the full set up procedure? And whilst on that subject is it really necessary to drop the stub axle carrier top ball joint t off when setting ride height?
I have tried searching the forum but to be honest I hardly ever find the search facility works for me

[Moeregaard]

Andrew, just make up the link shown in the manual and set the torsion bars to the factory height. It doesn't really take that long, you'll have easy access to everything with the drivetrain out, and if you decide against the adjustable reaction plate, you'll be ready to go when the engine goes back in.

You will need to release the front ball joints to relieve the pre-load on the torsion bars. I prefer to do this with the lower one and tie the other bits up and out of the way. It just seems less awkward. Also, ensure that the four bolts you use at the rear have a grip lenth (the unthreaded portion) long enough that the threads aren't taking any shear loads.

[Dave K]

Easier than making links it to use ratchet straps available from Screwfix for a tenner. You then take the measurements to the floor as in the manual.

You can then use the ratchet straps later for setting the mid laden position before clamping down tight whatever bushes you are using.

Dave

[andrewh]

Now I am really confused. Firstly, do you not have to have the engine and box and bonnet on for correct setting?

Secondly, when you remove the reaction plate do you not lose the setting of the torsion bars anyway?

I realise this is not rocket science but having not done it before I could really do with a nice video guide to the job. I cannot recall how the back end of the adjuster brackets fit in place and how they can retain their tension if the reaction plate is removed.

Reference the ratchet straps can you run me thru this in a bit of detail please?

On the adjustable reaction plate subject where does the real benefit of this lie? If it is so easy to set up correctly at this stage why would you need an adjustable plate?

I am sorry I am showing my ignorance here and have just not grasped the concept of this set up yet. I will catch up!

[vipergts]

Adjustable reaction plate is good for fine tweaking.

Mine has got to come apart again since i have run out of adjustment. You'll set the car and have to adjust it all again because it settles over a few months

[Patrick NICOLAS]

You can remove the reaction plates without problem and keep the car on its wheels. The screws through the chassis before attaching the reaction plate. So you can easily move the car in the garage



Be careful if you want to make an adjustment of ride height. Having replaced the engine, wait a few days before making height adjustment. Torsion bars not spring back immediatly.

[abowie]

. So is there a quick cheat to get the torsion bars somewhere approximate without having to go through the full set up procedure?

Setting it properly with the link is really a doddle; if the splines are clean 10 mins per side. With my current resto I set the bars up before putting in the engine. If you mark them at the front you can then remove them. When you reinstall them do so with the link in place. Line up the front splines to your previous marks and the rear splined teardrops are correctly aligned when the 2 bolt holes line up.

[abowie]

Now I am really confused. Firstly, do you not have to have the engine and box and bonnet on for correct setting?

No you don't. It's solely about setting the bottom wishbone at the correct angle.

Secondly, when you remove the reaction plate do you not lose the setting of the torsion bars anyway?

No, not as long as you mark the bars in correct orientation for subsequent reassembly.

On the adjustable reaction plate subject where does the real benefit of this lie? If it is so easy to set up correctly at this stage why would you need an adjustable plate?

I put an adjustable plate on my last car, because I hadn't fully grasped the concept of setting the torsion bar positions properly. Once I'd done it a few times the penny dropped and it really is pretty simple. Give it a go and you'll soon grasp it.
Having fitted the adjustable plate on my FHC, I have never had to adjust it, which was what I was told by several people would happen. I assumed that it would be necessary for fine tuning, but this hasn't turned out to be the case. I've come to the opinion that the adjustable plates are really only useful for making short term adjustments for track days etc.
I reckon that if the torsion bars are genuinely set correctly with the factory spec distance link the front suspension height will be right. If it is not, then torsion bar is faulty or something is badly bent. Either way an adjustable plate won't fix that problem.

[Dave K]

Andrew,

For get my post about the ratchet straps it's utter garbage, wasn't thinking when I wrote it.

As for adjustable reaction plate save your money for something else, I have one and it's useless to be honest. Make an accurate set of links and it's easy to set up. Angus uses the ones I made and it's really easy.

Dave

[1954Etype]

Andrew,

For get my post about the ratchet straps it's utter garbage, wasn't thinking when I wrote it.

As for adjustable reaction plate save your money for something else, I have one and it's useless to be honest. Make an accurate set of links and it's easy to set up. Angus uses the ones I made and it's really easy.

Dave

Agree with Dave. Not sure I agree with Lee about having to reset them after a couple of months. I never have had to and I'm pretty sure the dealers wouldn't have been too happy to do it for every car!

[PeterCrespin]

So is there a quick cheat to get the torsion bars somewhere approximate without having to go through the full set up procedure?

If you just want to wheel the car around you don't need torsion bars at all. Just drill two holes in a bit of 2x1" about 11 inches apart or thereabouts. That will hold the front up while you work on it.

Do the real job before you put the engine/gearbox back as the access is far better. Assuming you resuse the original torsion bars mKe sure they go back on the same side. The only way you'd need to re-adjust after a month or two would be if you swapped sides. As Angus said, nobody would sell a car for which it was normal that it had to have its suspension reset shortly after new purchase...

Pete

[Durango2k]

I must say I am a bit confused (now that sounds familiar....).

IIRC it?s a MUST to remove the reaction plate before fitting the engine.

This only leaves one way:

Set the height with the bars without the drivetrain, MARK all parts, remove, fit engine (from below in my case) and re-fit the TBs as marked.

Correct ?

I found a ghastly construction round the reaction plate: Someone has fitted ultra- long screws, say 3 inches ++ , and he used a HUNDRED washers or more to compensate for the length. No idea why, I will need to buy some screws for it when I get there.

Carsten

[1954Etype]

I must say I am a bit confused (now that sounds familiar....).

IIRC it?s a MUST to remove the reaction plate before fitting the engine.

This only leaves one way:

Set the height with the bars without the drivetrain, MARK all parts, remove, fit engine (from below in my case) and re-fit the TBs as marked.

Correct ?

I found a ghastly construction round the reaction plate: Someone has fitted ultra- long screws, say 3 inches ++ , and he used a HUNDRED washers or more to compensate for the length. No idea why, I will need to buy some screws for it when I get there.

Carsten

Carsten, this job is really sikple. When i do it, I strip all the components down, plate or paint as required. Make sure all the splines and nuts and bolts fit freely and grease the splines off the car. (if you have to adjust it later it makes it easier to slide the torsion bar off the splines.

make sure that the reaction plate slides into place from underneath (again clean off any excess paint/ underseal etc to ensure this).

So with the tbr plate off, bolt the rear splines in place but fit the top ones finger tight and tighten the lowers.

Assuming you have the front torsion bar mounts and lower wishbones in place, fit the setting link (note that the angle of the lower wishbone will look alarmingly low!) slide the correct torsion bar into position. Chances are you will have to turn it one spline at a time to get it to slide in properly. When done, fit the 3/16 bolt and nyloc to the frong of the bar. Note the bar is not under tension. Undo the nylocs holding the rear bar splines in place and gently tap the bolts back so they are flush with the body mount (you need to do this in order to fit the reaction plate later).

Fit the engine, torsion bar reaction plate and bolt it all up. Remove setting links. You will need to use a jack under the lower wishbone in order to fit the uprights. Job done.

[andrewh]

Thanks guys. As always some really good intel here. I am suffering from a bad Chet infection so cannot risk and hour or two in the workshop right now so will have to leave this until I am clear so will report back.

So you fasten the link in place the. Slot the torsion bars into the back so the holes on the TB bracket line up with the RP then when you Lower the car onto its own weight it the ride height will be correct? Cannot be that easy surely?

[1954Etype]

Yep, basically that's it. The factory calculated the ride height with full weight of engjne, bonnet etc then worked out how to set it unladen.

[andrewh]

Ok, so what about the view that the car handles better with the nose 1/2 inch lower than standard? Do you reduce the link by the exact ammount you want the car to sit lower. I doubt it. I guess that is where the adjustable TB s come into their own.

[1954Etype]

I set it to standard and my cars look and handle fine.

[Dave K]

Andrew,

Don't mess with the factory settings. As for the adjustable RP all that allows for is minor setting changes to get both sides right. My adjustable RP has set screws either side that bend if you get too much weight on it.
?250 wasted in my opinion. If I take the engine out sometime in the future and have to remove it then it'll go in the bin.

Dave

[Moeregaard]

I'm with Dave on this on, Andrew. The factory settings are ideal for road use, and the car just looks better at this height. Bear in mind that lowering the front will also reduce the effective castor angle--albeit very slightly--and the car will most likely need some time on the alignment rack. Lowering things also brings the bonnet chin that much closer to kerbstones and other hazards.

[vipergts]

Well my car definitely settle lower that when I set it....maybe because I'd replaced the torsion bars with new items.