Audible noise from n/side rear wheel

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 4:39 pm

Over the weekend whilst 'slowly free wheeling' in stop start traffic I noticed an audible sound somewhere between a rub and squeak and probably on each rotation of the rear n/s wheel.

Difficult to describe a noise but wondered whether it could be something to do with the splines/wheel hub interface?

The wheels are new the hubs original?

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D COUPE · Post by **D COUPE** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 5:50 pm

One of the back plates for the brakes ?. Its tight in there

DC

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:05 pm

DC

I don't think so as it appears to be from the hub area and maybe best described as a 'creak' rather than a 'squeal' or 'rub'. Had the wheels been old I might have suspected those in there being a number of soft spokes...

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 7:38 pm

The most likely cause is that one of those pestilential dust shields made of two half cups riveted together and secured to the drive shaft by a jubilee clip is just touching the hub carrier at some point of its rotation . You will easily see if this is the case by a witness mark where it is rubbing , and it is then just a case of moving it inboard from the hub carrier a small amount and resecuring with the jubilee

38E · Post by **38E** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 3:36 am

christopher storey wrote:The most likely cause is that one of those pestilential dust shields....

But the early cars didn't have those U/J covers.

How about your spinners, are they original or repro? There have been some poor aftermarket examples around and failure to properly seat the tapers was a problem with some. Sounds like a creaking from the taper. I'd certainly remove the wheel and have a look.

BTW, your car is quite close to mine, 860320

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 2:54 pm

Clive

83 cars separate the chassis no's - mine was built on the 11th April what date is your's? How original is the car?

I'm assuming it was imported at some later date to the states? which side is your steering wheel now?

The same creaking is something I recall on my '63 roadster so I assumed this was a fairly common issue. I parted with that car in 1987 and never got to the bottom of the noise then?

Richard

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 3:08 pm

Clive

Have since my last post managed to visit the data site and view the car so please delete answers that relate through the photos.

One thing I could not see clearly was the steering wheel, it appears as though you have the 'dished thumb' style rather than the 'all round' profile?

Richard

38E · Post by **38E** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:27 pm

Richard,

I'm not sure what you mean regarding the steering wheel. As far as I know, it's the original one and it has finger indentations on the reverse side. It lacks the exposed alloy rim.

My car was originally sold to Jersey, then later imported back into England. I bought it there in 1975 and when I moved to Ontario in 1977, brought it with me and later restored it myself over many years.

It remains RHD and I've never found that a problem here. It would be a shame to change it anyway and if I ever sell it, I'll probably return it to the UK.

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:04 pm

Clive

860403 has the exposed metal steering wheel as you describe. I have yet to start my restoration which I'm planning for two years hence. It is nice to see the attention to detail you have achieved with the hose clamps, washer bottle and battery clamps for starters.

I assume by the photo dates that the work was done around 2004 ish. Does it feel like ten years ago? Manufactured a month earlier than 403, just goes to show how they were well into ramping up the production process a year or so after launch!

Richard

paulj · Post by **paulj** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:13 pm

Hi
Last year I had really odd creaking noise from the back end it took ages to track it down to creaky wheels oiled the spokes completely disappeard
The wheels were about two years old
Hope yours is such an easy fix
Regards Paul

Post by **Heuer** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 11:03 am

Had a similar problem on one of the fronts on my FHC. Turned out to be the spinner was not as tight as it could be. They were new repro spinner which required a lot of heavy bashing to get them firm enough to eliminate the problem. Got rid of them and put a set of Jaguar originals on - spin up finger tight, three whacks with a lead mallet and they are perfect!

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:26 pm

Paul/David

The way you have described this is how it seems to me.

I believe the spinners are original - are there any visual tell tale signs between the two?

I have to check the end float on the wheel bearings so will pay attention to how tightly they are presently fixed.

Thank you both...

Post by **Heuer** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 5:05 pm

You can tell the difference by a) the Jaguar logo font and b) the weight. Easiest way is to compare the oil filler cap to the spinners - the logos should be identical, more or less: viewtopic.php?t=5015&highlight=spinners

Bear in mind if you changed the splined hubs and re-used the old wheels they will quickly damage the new splines.

NickJ · Post by **NickJ** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:09 pm

sounds verey much like a problem with the wheel and splines but sometimes it is remarkably difficult to locate the source of the noise in these circumstances. I had a similar problem two years ago and found in the end that the pin/lever that holds the handbrake pads in had broken. The pads then dropped down and made a horrible sound until I was well up to speed. Just drive it, yank up the handbrake and see if it goes.
Interesting to note the commission numbers. I'm in the office at present so cant check but I'm am fairly sure that mine is 860341 and it was certainly built at some stage in April 1962 according to the Heritage certificate.
Nick J Ludlow 1962 FHC

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 5:52 pm

David

As always a fabulous piece of detailed research (the link to spinners on this occasion), we are very fortunate to have such enthusiasm and knowledge at our disposal.

I'm delighted to find that the spinners on 403 are original.

I notice the comment concerning new splines and old wheels how about the other way round? In this respect I purchased a new set of standard curly hub wheels from MWS and was a little disappointed that their curly hubs are not an exact copy to the originals?(a frustration being and likely shared by many - that if one is going to the trouble and expense why not produce an exact copy?)

I have been contemplating having the original wheels rebuilt (because of the hubs) but it would seem that too rotate between new and old wheels may not be the best decision.

I did not fit a new set of hubs and wondering whether I should have? I notice from CMC spec that they fit new hubs as a matter of course with each restoration.

Richard

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 7:27 pm

Here for once David and I do not agree. If the hubs are in good order I can see no reason why new wheels should not be fitted to the old hubs . These parts are not subject to heavy shearing forces in the way that e.g. tappets and camshaft lobes are , which require both to be replaced if either is changed . It is if the remaining part is badly worn that damage to a new replacement of the other part will occur, and the hubs are easy to check with any reasonable magnifying glass : the splines should be effectively flat topped like a sand dune, and not spiked like the Matterhorn

38E · Post by **38E** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 1:37 am

richard btype wrote:...was a little disappointed that their curly hubs are not an exact copy to the originals?(a frustration being and likely shared by many - that if one is going to the trouble and expense why not produce an exact copy?)

I don't now if this is the reason that the hubs aren't the same as the old ones, but the original pressed (curly) hubs were supposed to be prone to cracking, hence the change to the later straight style forged hubs.

But if you want curly hubs (which besides being correct are definitely more attractive, I think) you could consider replacement Dayton wheels. Their curly hub is actually a machined part, plus they provide a machined taper for a wheel balancing cone on the outer end. They also have stainless spokes and you can order them sealed for tubeless tires as well.

Post by **Heuer** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:19 am

What I was saying Christopher is if the hubs have been replaced because of worn spines putting the original wheels back will wear the new splines very quickly. If new wheels are used on worn splines the wheel hubs will wear very quickly. Ideally if you change one or other because of wear you need to change both. Richard was complaining about noise after putting new wheels on the existing hubs and given he has the original correctly fitting spinners there could be a hub/wheel hub mismatch.

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