Hello
Apologies if these are stupid questions, but since after looking at both the Haynes manual and reading posts on here I have not totally understood the assembly of cam chain, tensioners and camshafts, I would rather check.
Is it possible to remove just the exhaust camshaft without touching the pinions on the inlet camshaft?
The tensioner only moves a small amount clockwise. Does it require some effort to turn further?
Once both bolts holding the pinions are removed how are the pinions moved forward off the camshaft end?
Cheers
Philip
Exhaust camshaft removal
#2
Hi Philip....If you look in the knowledge base section of the forum you will find the maintenance manuals....There is a section on camshafts starting at page B.32...... engine must be at tdc to start with both cam keyways at 90deg to the cam cover face (pointing up)
Yes just one can can be removed...Once bolts are removed sprocket assembly it can be taped or pulled off....re tensioner see page B63 you need to press in the locking plunger to turn the adjuster.....hope this helps Steve
Yes just one can can be removed...Once bolts are removed sprocket assembly it can be taped or pulled off....re tensioner see page B63 you need to press in the locking plunger to turn the adjuster.....hope this helps Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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christopher storey
- Posts: 5698
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm
- Location: cheshire , england

#3
Also, before attempting to move the tensioner you must slacken the locknut . This is a 1/2 inch Whitworth size so you may need to adapt a spanner or if the worst comes to the worst, use an adjustable !
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#4
And don't drop it down the hole... you don't actually need to remove it, just loosen it off enough to be able to rotate the adjuster.christopher storey wrote:Also, before attempting to move the tensioner you must slacken the locknut . This is a 1/2 inch Whitworth size so you may need to adapt a spanner or if the worst comes to the worst, use an adjustable !
I usually stuff some rags under the timing sprocket as well to mimimise the risk of dropping a bolt or bits of lockwire down there.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia
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#5
Steve/Andrew
Thanks for your replies and I'll have a look at the pages as suggested.
Your comments confirm what I had deduced from further reading. One further question; I am pushing the little plunger in and the serrated plate then moves quite freely but perhaps only through 20 deg. Is this it since during this movement it doesn't appear to do anything!
Cheers
Philip
Thanks for your replies and I'll have a look at the pages as suggested.
Your comments confirm what I had deduced from further reading. One further question; I am pushing the little plunger in and the serrated plate then moves quite freely but perhaps only through 20 deg. Is this it since during this movement it doesn't appear to do anything!
Cheers
Philip
Cheers
Philip
Philip
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#6
Hi Philip....If you have loosened the nut an d hold in the plunger....then use the tool or long nose pliers in the two holes to loosen or tighten can't remember how far it moves but you should notice the chain loosen or tighten...Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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