Brake pedal position

[art_of_war]

Hello all!

Please see photo attached. I think that the brake pedal has a strange position, too high compated to other pedals.

Should this be considered normal?

Also, when pushing the brake pedal, it first has a lot of free movement, and then in the end it starts to brake

The car is E-type, S1.

Thank you!

[Tbob]

Hi Art,

I have two responses to your questions...

The brake pedal height is normal, at least on the cars I've seen. I lowered mine by placing a 7mm spacer beteen the master cylinder and the pedal housing. It moved the pedal toward the firewall (bulkhead) about 50mm.

If the pedal has a lot of travel before braking, could be air in the hydraulics. Plenty of threads on this forum regarding methods to bleed brakes.

Good luck. Let us know how it progresses.

[38E]

There were different brake master cylinder arrangements on S1 cars so you need to be more specific. Is it a 3.8 or 4.2 and does it have the twin Dunlop master cylinders or not.

But in any case, you should be able to change that position by adjusting the pedal on the splined shaft, although it's rather difficult to do in-situ.

[art_of_war]

Hi Art,

Good luck. Let us know how it progresses.

Hello, thank you for both answers. I will surely replace the brake fluid and bleed the system, I was thinking the same!

Reference the brake pedal position, yes, a spacer is an idea, also I have heard about adjusting the pedal on the splined shaft, although it is difficult….. I think that since it is pretty normal, and probably most people do it as they just don't like when the pedals are not even, I will keep it that way ))

Thank you

[art_of_war]

There were different brake master cylinder arrangements on S1 cars so you need to be more specific. Is it a 3.8 or 4.2 and does it have the twin Dunlop master cylinders or not.

But in any case, you should be able to change that position by adjusting the pedal on the splined shaft, although it's rather difficult to do in-situ.

Dear Clive, thank you. Yes I am sorry, the car is 1962 series 1, 3.8.

I will most likely keep the pedal this way so far, as it seems to be normal, just a matter of taste - I mean it's position. It does not stop me from enjoying driving anyway ))

[38E]

Art, then your car is the same as mine, dual Dunlops. My pedal is slightly lower, about level with the clutch. It moves about 1-1/2" total before becoming hard but there's not much free play. I'd like it lower too but the clutch pedal needs that much travel.

How many E-Types do you see driving around in Moscow? Early 3.8 Coupes are fairly rare anyway so have you entered your car on xkedata.com and put it on Heuer's map?

[art_of_war]

Clive,

I definitely need to change the brake fluid and to bleed the system. Mine starts to brake (pedal becomes hard) in the very end of its way. Should be air there in the system.

There are not so many e-types in Moscow that I know of. There are a couple of series 2 and 3, but I know only of one series 1 except mine (and it is a cabrio, mine is a coupe). But I need to say that a lot of people here have cars in their private collections and you'll never see them driving them, so there could be more. If interested, I have posted here some time ago a link to an article on Petrolicious about my car and a link to a small video that my friends made of it )

Yes I guess I should put it on that map.!

[rfs1957]

Hi Art,

If pedal-positions become a real preoccupation for you, you might have a look at this thread -

http://www.myetype.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 610#p42610

Even if the leg-length aspects aren't necessarily of any concern, tweaking the pedal positions is covered at some length.

[cactusman]

There should be no air in the system. Bleed from the furthest rear wheel first. Bleeding the rears is a pain due to the in board discs and the awkward location of the bleed nipple. Fit a remote bleed nipple set at the same time and it makes life so much easier. Use a clear pipe from the caliper dipped in a jar and fitted with a non return valve. Gunsons visibleed is a few pounds here in the UK and is ideal. Open nipple and pump the pedal really hard three or four times then close the nipple and top up t he reservoir. Repeat at all four wheels until the fluid is clear and free from bubbles. Job done. On the 3.8 the front and rear circuits are entirely separate with their own master cylinder and reservoir.

[art_of_war]

Thank you guys!

Yes indeed there are two master cylinders

Kindly
Artem

[cactusman]

Incidently dont use a Gunson Ezebleed that claims to use air pressure from the tyre to blow the fluid through. A it simply does not work and B it will spray brake fluid all over the place. Visibleed and stamping pedal is brilliant. Ezebleed is the invention of Beelzebub!!!!!!!!