Heater Transfer Pipe Replacement

Talk about the E-Type Series 1
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rfs1957
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Location: Languedoc - France
France

#21 Re: Heater Transfer Pipe Replacement

Post by rfs1957 » Mon Oct 02, 2023 5:33 pm

Ca marche !

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30 seconds on each pipe stub, to get a most satisfactorily swaged end.

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Pipe location feels much more positive.
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962

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Allrand
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South Africa

#22 Re: Heater Transfer Pipe Replacement

Post by Allrand » Tue Oct 03, 2023 5:42 am

Great job, now could you do that with the engine in the way? :bigrin:
Randall Botha
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7 (now sold)

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Philippe-J.
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#23 Re: Heater Transfer Pipe Replacement

Post by Philippe-J. » Sat Nov 16, 2024 3:21 pm

I have an extra question about those heater transfer pipes, as I am changing mine now.
I had the idea to isolate them with a rubber foam tube, but I'd like to make sure with you that there is enough room for it around the pipes within the bulkhead.
Thank you for your advise.
Philippe
Philippe-J

1967 S1(.25) OTS ... coming together
https://renov-ots-1967.over-blog.com/

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rfs1957
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#24 Re: Heater Transfer Pipe Replacement

Post by rfs1957 » Sat Nov 16, 2024 6:59 pm

Hi Philippe,

Complete waste of time, don't bother.

Moisture trap, massive hassle, won't be able to see the success of the riveting, and all for zero effect.

Rory
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962

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Philippe-J.
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#25 Re: Heater Transfer Pipe Replacement

Post by Philippe-J. » Sun Nov 17, 2024 12:57 pm

So much for my "brilliant" (at least I though) idea :P
Couldn't be clearer :questionmarks: , thank you for your answer Rory.
Philippe-J

1967 S1(.25) OTS ... coming together
https://renov-ots-1967.over-blog.com/

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montauk1989
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#26 Re: Heater Transfer Pipe Replacement

Post by montauk1989 » Sat Mar 07, 2026 11:10 pm

I just pulled the coolant pipes out of my ’70 E‑Type Coupe (LHD) and figured I’d document the process, because while the forums have plenty of theories about removing them, nobody ever seems to explain how you actually wrangle that long pipe out of there. It turned out to be pretty straightforward once I understood the angles.
Here’s what worked for me:
1. Open the fuse door
2. Remove the dash top
3. Drill out all 18 rivets holding the coolant tubes
4. Drill out the six rivets on the vacuum cross tube — some folks leave it in, but on my car it was pressing down on the long coolant pipe
5. My car had a relay mounted on a crossbar in the opening between the fuses; I removed the crossbar so I could get my arm in there
6. Pull the two short coolant tubes out through the opening between the fuses
7. Reach down through that opening, slide the vacuum tube to the left, then up, then out
8. The long tube is the tricky one: reach down, lift it, and shift it left. There’s more room high on the left side. Once it clears the metal air box behind the fuse panel, you can lift it and wiggle it out. One note: the heater valve and heater box cables get in the way a bit, so just be mindful of them.
I got the long tube installed today and called it quits there. Back at it tomorrow.
For the life of me, I don’t understand why people mess with the wiper mechanism, pull gauges, or remove the windshield. Maybe that’s necessary on Series 1 cars or convertibles, but on a Series 2 Coupe this method worked without any of that drama.

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