A couple of questions.....

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:40 am

Just offering up a comment re the rear mat. When I was up with Mike Turley (MCT restorations) picking up my retrimmed seats and a trim "kit" - I mentioned to him that my car had a one piece rear mat but that he had made me a 2 piece.... (my car is late 64). He replied - "in the factory they chopped and changed all the time with series 1's - both are correct". I am not in a position to argue either way as I dont have that level of knowledge so just sharing his comment... but he was a factory Trimmer at the time and has probably done one or two in 50 years :) If people know different - i wont argue.

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:07 pm

According to the Jaguar Spare Parts Catalogue (J30 page 263) the luggage mat was changed from two piece to one piece from chassis #861093 and #888257.

38E · Post by **38E** » Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:16 pm

ChrisC wrote:...He replied - "in the factory they chopped and changed all the time with series 1's - both are correct". ....

I believe that, for example the OTS seats fitted to David's and my FHCs, presumably by the factory.

But anyway,I think you'll be better off with the two piece because the cover piece just comes together with the removable board, whereas frequent folding of the flap of the one piece would be sure to result in an unsightly crease in the Hardura eventually.

david muir · Post by **david muir** » Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:20 pm

In my opinion, late '64 3.8 with one piece mat(861605)..........you're better off with the two piece-it's a right battle getting the one piece mat out of the way (without removing it all completely) if you need to get in at the spare wheel etc. especially at the side of a motorway with luggage in the car!

David

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:40 pm

Spent the day working through most of the snagging list. I am short one slotted chrome plated Lucas thread screw that retains the front indicator lens. These screws have a small shoulder at the end of the thread. Anyone got a spare in reasonable condition?

MarkE · Post by **MarkE** » Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:47 pm

Gorgeous looking car David, and I really love those headlights, and the colour combination.

I'm glad you're keeping the old Moss box, as they sound lovely pulling off in first...very pre-war! In fact, the box was used in an SS100 I seem to remember.

It all adds to the charm of a stunning 51 year old Jaguar.

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sun Jun 30, 2013 5:57 pm

I agree about the Moss box. Call me a romantic, but it just emphasises the leap in design that the first E type represented when it arrived. It looks like a rocket but sounded, at least the gearbox, like an old pre war Bentley. I have to say that its the one thing I have troubled over, but have had mine rebuilt and hope that I can get along with it. I am not into racing away from the traffic lights, as I am told the way to change gear is to count "one and two" whilst changing between 1st and 2nd, all of which should cost at least 2 seconds!

Funny though, I hear endless criticism of the Moss box on E types but never hear anything bad from Jaguar saloon drivers of the period or even from the original drivers of these when questioned they look at you as though you are talking about a different car. I reckon, there are some awful Moss boxes around, and maybe they were not THAT bad when new.

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sun Jun 30, 2013 11:02 pm

I'm looking forward to driving a LHD Moss car as I've only driven RHD ones.

For RHD you have quite a long reach for reverse and first (which is the 'problem' shift) until you learn the box's quirks. This is especially true for saloons which use longer levers that therefore travel further for the same selector movement. If you have a weak detent it's all a bit more hit-or-miss than the 4-synchro.

I'm interested to know if pulling the lever closer to the driver rather than reaching further away, improves the ergonomics of the Moss change. I generally like to sample the whole Sixties vibe and have had to master plenty of iffy gearboxes in my time, such as the one on BMW boxer twins, but if I end up doing a lot of miles in the 62 I hope the Moss becomes 'invisible' if not inaudible.

Pete

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 4:27 pm

David

Thanks for interior shots - lovely, lovely, lovely!

As for the Moss box it is one of the attractions to me - very period and a hall mark in the Mk 2 jags - no doubt what's coming even if you can't see it. Feels like a rifle bolt to slot in and out more like a race car than the softer slightly spongey feel of the later box - but does create something of a work out that needs concentration to achieve a crunch free change.

Richard

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 5:57 pm

Heuer wrote:Yes I know, the boot mat was changed in Feb 1963 to a single piece unit. Another thing to add to the must do list. but well spotted! Other things include:

Support brackets missing on stone guard (still researching that one as no holes in original)
Stone guard surround should be Dove Grey not black
Several cross head screws used on light fittings when they should all be slotted
Bonnet balance assembly should be cadmium plated not black
Washer bottle has a two spade rather than three spade motor
Support bracket for heater box missing
Clutch slave spring and bracket missing
Incorrect routing of fresh air flap Bowden cable
Dip switch escutcheon incorrect (should read 'Head Lamp', not 'Headlamp' in correct font)
Support clip missing on bonnet plug loom
Support clip missing on speedometer cable
Bradite Gold should extend up the cylinder head to the cam covers
Should be no soundproofing in wheel well/fuel tank (removal not going to happen for my own health!)
SU ID tags fitted wrongly - Front and rear carbs transposed
Sugar scoop retaining bolts mounted wrong way around
Washer missing on one anti roll bar bush
Incorrect fuel filler cap, should be chrome not cast alloy
Clock not working despite a ?80 rebuild by the PO - off to Mike Ecke this winter
One PL headlamp has lens clouding and some reflector corrosion
Ignition key generic type rather than Willmot-Breeden (Union) stamped

Already removed the overpriced red Koni shock absorbers (worst thing you can do to an E-Type's handling) replaced by Boge, supplementary cooling fan/in hose thermostat replaced with Coolcat fan/Otter and hateful Facet fuel pump/pressure regulator (why would you want this noisy piece of American junk in an E-Type?) replaced with modern submersible pump from SNG. I also have a problem with the accelerator linkage sticking (so clean/rebuild/adjust) and the steering wheel needs moving one spline to the left. No doubt there will be more but it is all just snagging in the grand scheme of things and a lot of fun as long as it does not distract from the driving. Rainy winter weekend stuff.

NB - thanks to Angus for spotting most of this! He is incredible when it comes to detail. 8) The 'Factory Fit' thread he started is also an invaluable reference.

I missed this thread somehow.

David that looks quite superb....In fact I'd almost go as far as to say it looks almost as good as mine.

Re the quotes list above....This is exactly why I went for what I liked and made no effort to go for absolute originality. As you have done, you've felt it necessary to list all the items that are wrong so that the "Bobble hats" know that you actually do know your stuff.

Lovely car in a great colour scheme. :D

Post by **Heuer** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 6:12 pm

It is just snagging Lee, with the help of 'Eagle Eye' Angus - staggering I can look at a car and still miss stuff which he points out immediately! I wanted one of each - a totally standard factory spec car to run locally and a hooligan hot-rod for our journeys through France.

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 6:17 pm

I need another now.....I NEED a driver, one to splosh around in and not worry if it rains.

Mind you that's what I built blue for and now I can't bring myself to get it dusty let alone wet and dirty

Fool :?

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 8:17 pm

Lee get and use it. How can you not? It's always going to be a minter it may even be worth more having been bloodied.

neil4444 · Post by **neil4444** » Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:59 pm

Heuer wrote:Here's mine - Tipper plates supplied using unpolished aluminium ACE 3 1/2" characters:

Hi David,

Please could you advise what gauge aluminium is used for the backing plate & when fixing to the car what stops the back of the digits touching the paintwork ?

Please could you also let me know the measurements between digits (standard spacing and the wider central spacing) ?

Regards,

Neil

Post by **Heuer** » Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:44 pm

Hi Neil

In France at the moment so will answer in full on my return. I used some spacers to keep the plate away from the body although I also seem to recall some oval rubber buffers on the panel, but that could be the wine! Spacing is difficult because if you use a standard spacing it will look odd on some characters. XKE 884 on the OTS (originally 100 PTA, but now a personal plate on a Porsche) was not a problem but 123 OHY on my FHC was - standard character spacing meant the whole thing was offset (1 being difficult) so it was assembled by eye.

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

The 'E' Type Forum

A couple of questions.....

#41

#42

#43

#44 Rear mat

#45

#46

#47

#48

#49

#50

#51

#52

#53

#54

#55