Steering Column Help please!!

[andrewh]

I am just trying to fathom out my steering column for the 4.2 LHD car which I am converting to RHD. I bought the car in bits, so somethings are pretty hard to fathom out. I had the outer steering column tube and no inner column. I have now bought a column inner and new 4.2 indicator stalk but just discovered that it does not fit the tube. Am I correct that one needs to alter the upper bracket on the column tube to the other side as part of the LHD to RHD conversion? Its still not obvious to me that the tube I have is correct for the car I have. When I hold the new indicator stalk tight to the tube the cancel bracket fouls the inner of the indicator stalk. Still following? Good. Basically, I am wondering whether I have a 3.8 tube and what the difference is with a 4.2, or perhaps a 3.8 inner column. If someone can help me here before I go slightly mad I would be grateful. I don't want to start cocking around a column tube if I don't need to. Photos available if required. Dead easy if I could look at a 4.2 RHD column!

[mgcjag]

Hi Andrew...have you looked in the knowledge base...S1 4.2 parts catalogue...full diagram of the steering column if it helps......Steve

[andrewh]

thank Steve, yes first place I went. So all I can see is that it looks like a 3.8 column, and I would have thought it would be the same, however, there are different part numbers for the v early 3.8 column , later 3.8 and then 4.2. As indeed there are for the indicator switch. Hence I was rather hoping to find someone who has fathomed it all out before. I suspect, that the column tube/shroud I have is LHD and for a 3.8 as my 4.2 indicator stalk will not fit.

[mgcjag]

Hi Andrew...is there anything in the left to rhd conversion section that might help

[andrewh]

just a reference to changing the retaining bracket for the indicator switch mechanism through 180 degrees. The parts books list different numbers for the 3.8 indicator stalk and the 4.2 cannot think why though. I would have thought they would be the same . Ah well.

[Julian.P]

Hi Andrew, been going through a similar problem as you, can you post some pics of what you have..

Julian.

[andrewh]

yes I will do so tomorrow. Packed up for the day now! thx

[politeperson]

I converted mine in the summer from lhd to rhd.

I wizzed the stalk around from one side to the other fairly easily.

From memory, I had to rotate the steering lock assembly 180 degrees as well. This involved drilling a rivet out.

So now, what you see in the film is correct for RHD and required no parts.

It is an S2 of course. not sure if that makes a difference.

[andrewh]

thank you but I think it is different on a series 2. Some photos from me tomorrow should refresh a few memories!

[paulsco]

Hi Andrew,
I converted my 65 from LHD to RHD and the LHD steering column needs the bracket for the indicators moved from the left to the right hand side of the column.

The bracket is brazed on and I ground down the braze and melted the remnants to remove the bracket.
There is a raised circular spot, for want of a better word on the other side of the steering column and a circular hole in the bracket which can be used to locate the bracket on the right hand of the column before re-brazing.

Picture 5553 by paul scott, on Flickr

Picture 5555 by paul scott, on Flickr

Picture 5554 by paul scott, on Flickr

The cancel bracket on mine fowls the bracket (it appears to be too long) and I think I am going to have to shorten it a little. I haven't done this yet.

I had a discussion on Jag-Lovers about this, so I do not think it is an isolated problem.

Paul

[andrewh]

thank you Paul. Yours is the same as mine, what has been throwing me off the trail is that my new 4.2 indicator switch doesn't fit without the cancel bracket screws fouling the inside of the indicator forging. Could be a replacement part issue of course! Now all I need is to see a photo of a genuine 4.2 indicator switch and I should be there. Many thanks chaps.

[Gfhug]

Andrew, is the indicator switch here what you are looking for?
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10034

Geoff

[288gto]

Andrew,

This is what yours should look like built up..



As mentioned above, there are different lengths of cancelling finger. I may even have one if you are stuck. Also as mentioned they are definitely handed so it looks like you will need to rotate the bracket through 180 degrees.

Julian, this is what yours should look like built up...




Hope this helps you both and shows others the differences.


Simon

[andrewh]

thanks Chaps. Very helpful. This is what I have




what I hope that you can see from these photos is that the indicator fouls on the screws that hold the bracket. I appreciate that I need to move the bracket through 180 degrees but even so this indicator switch will not clear the screws. So whether its correct or not I have yet to discover. any thoughts on that would be good

[288gto]

From those photos, the one thing I can tell you for certain is that the cancelling "finger" is on upside down.
Depending on the inner column there seems to be various positions that this was fitted. Unfortunately I don't have a complete Series 1 column inner and outer but the photo below shows some of the variations. I have also seen the cancelling finger sitting directly over the flat bladed grub screw. There also seem to be at least 3 different lengths of cancelling "finger" the shortest being the one that works with the plastic cancelling ring on later models.



In summary and to paraphrase Eric Morecambe, it would seem you have all the right parts but not necessarily in the right order.

Keep calm and carry on,

Simon

[paulsco]

Hi Andrew,

I believe yours is a 65, the same as mine. This is what I have:

Picture 8898 by paul scott, on Flickr

Picture 8895 by paul scott, on Flickr

Picture 8900 by paul scott, on Flickr

Your picture shows the screw for the inner column shaft across the inner column where mine is stopped from turning by the "cancelling finger" itself. I don't know which is correct, but mine is the same as I found it and the same as is on my 340 Jaguar. I notice your indicator switch is different with the metal fingers. Mine is original, although I did have to replace the white plastic contacts.

Paul

[288gto]

Paul,

Your last picture is very useful. On yours, the bracket that holds the indicator switch is welded on flush with the top of the outer column whereas Andrew's is welded on with the two prongs extending beyond the top of the column.






Edit. Could someone post those two pics next to one another for comparison please. I'm trying to do it on my phone and the [Img] part isn't working. Thanks



Simon

[andrewh]

More great help here , thanks Paul and Simon. It really does seem that there are a number of different combinations available. I have spoken with Simon, and concluded that it may be best for me to set my column up in the car. The inner column can float up and down within the outer column shroud, and is governed by the universal joint at the bottom and the outer by the bracketry of course. Paul, is it possible to measure your column or is it all covered up within the car? What I am interested in is the total length of the inner column from the bottom of the splines to the top of the thread which the adjusting nut screws onto. It would be useful to know why all these components vary to the extent that they do. I can understand that things change around a lot when there is a collapsable column and steering lock and igniton on column involved, but according to the parts book for both 3.8 and 4.2 series One there are several different columns. If I have the correct length inner column then I see no reason why I cannot alter the outer shroud and location of the cancelling ring screws to fix my application.

[288gto]

Andrew's. Position higher up the outer column.



Paul's. Flush with the top of the column



This shows the difference in bracket positions
Hopefully this thread will be of use to others and might explain one of the problems getting various components to integrate and work properly.


Simon

[andrewh]

of course the bracket position not only has an effect upon the potential clearance of the cancel finger under it, but also the location of the indicator switch and the covers. I have slid my cancel lever up the inner column so that the lock grub screw fits in the middle of its split ends. In order to clear the bracket I need to pull the inner column up so that the brass horn pick up is now running on the dipped/serrated section of the brass ferrule which is incorrect. I think I need a slightly shorter cancel finger which I gather they did do and then to relocate the fixing holes for it higher up the column.