S1 3.8 Door Locks

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ALAN COCHRANE
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#1 S1 3.8 Door Locks

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:27 pm

Well it's spring time and at long last I'm free from house renovations.
My first job is to change the barrels in the door locks. The doors each have a separate key and the passenger door barrel is fitted upside down. Towards the end of last Summer the driver's door lock ceased to function altogether so I decided it was time for them to be changed.
I've managed to remove the door handle assembly and separate it from the push button with the barrel inside, but I'm stumped as to how you remove the barrel itself. There's nothing in the Workshop Manual and the exploded diagram in the Haynes manual seems to tally with what I've got. Here's a picture showing the barrel housing.

Image

The housing seems to be in one piece, totally encasing the barrel. SNG only show the barrel set I've already got so I don't think I've ordered the wrong thing.

All advice gratefully received as always

Cheers

Alan
Alan Cochrane

1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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Simonpfhc
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#2 Re: S1 3.8 Door Locks

Post by Simonpfhc » Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:31 pm

Hi Alan,

You have to knock the pin out that holds it all together. You can see it in your picture. It's in the upper part right in the middle. Once that has been drifted out, you should be able to remove the barrels.

Cheers.
Simon
62 3.8 FHC
91 Porsche 928GT
Find me on Instagram and Facebook @oldcarfixer

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#3 Re: S1 3.8 Door Locks

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:40 pm

Simon

Thanks for the reply. Yes it's obvious now, I thought the hole in the casing was a flaw in the casting. Anyway driver's side now reassembled ready for refitting tomorrow. You need at least three hands to put the handle assembly back together though.

Cheers

Alan
Alan Cochrane

1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#4 Re: S1 3.8 Door Locks

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Thu Mar 16, 2017 9:14 am

Well I've discovered that the driver's side lock assembly is missing the spring that hooks into the barrel and allows it to return to the centre position after locking. It's the one I've circled in the following photo:-
lock-springs-060311.jpg
lock-springs-060311.jpg (54.46 KiB) Viewed 4249 times
Does anyone have one or know where I can buy one. SNG don't list it as a seperate item and Richard Smith's phone was permanently engaged yesterday.

Secondly the drivers door lock on my car operates in a different fashion from the passenger side. You have to press in the button and then turn the key clockwise to lock. To unlock you again turn the key clockwise but do not need to press the button in. This has been the case since I bought the car in 2011.

The passenger side operates correctly(I think). Turn the key clockwise to lock and anticlockwise to unlock. Neither operation requires the button to be depressed.

Thoughts anyone?

Cheers

Alan
Alan Cochrane

1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#5 Re: S1 3.8 Door Locks

Post by Simonpfhc » Thu Mar 16, 2017 10:18 am

Hi Alan,

Glad you finally got it all apart, pleased I could help.

Can't help you sourcing the spring, but you definitely shouldn't need to push in the button to lock or unlock. I thought no you will find this is simply a symptom of that missing spring.

Also, as the lock barrels are not handed, you will find that to lock the drivers door (RHD) you turn the key anti-clockwise, and for the passenger door, clockwise. Or is it the other way around??

Cheers.
Simon
62 3.8 FHC
91 Porsche 928GT
Find me on Instagram and Facebook @oldcarfixer

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#6 Re: S1 3.8 Door Locks

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Thu Mar 16, 2017 2:49 pm

Simon

Sorry to disagree but the barrels are handed-as I found out the hard way. The cut outs on the end to engage the plunger ar set at about 30degrees before and after the vertical. This is because the openings on the respective end plates they pass through are set at similar angles.
I've fitted the driver's door lock with both springs but this has not affected the mode of operation.
Strangely the drivers door lock didn't seem to care which was fitted but the passenger door did. Which adds more weight to the belief that the drivers door lock has never operated correctly.
I will need to engage a second pair of eyes(wife) to compare the internal linkage operations of the two locks and see what is amiss.
The other thing I've found is that several images I've found on the internet show the key slot sitting at twelve o'clock down to the middle of the barrel but the majority show it between 6 o'clock and the middle. I've set them up at 6 o'clock up to the middle of the barrel meaning that the key is inserted the right way up. Is this correct or doesn't it matter?

Alan
Alan Cochrane

1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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