Engine & Gearbox Removal

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Hi Everyone

Well at long last I've started to strip out the car in preparation for the engine and gearbox removal. I've so far removed the complete exhaust system and seats, centre console and transmission tunnel. Already the parts required list is growing.
I need a new front down pipe-the flexible section was split,
Four new centre silencer mounts-one had given way and the other three weren't far behind,
One exhaust downpipe stud and two brass nuts and all the usual gaskets and sundries etc.
While I had the car on the lift I noticed all three carbs were leaking from there respective sandwich plates so new gaskets required here as well.
Not bad for a start and it has just passed it's MOT in this state!
Anyway my first question is what should be the correct nut holding the inlet manifolds to the cylinderhead. Mine are currently nyloc nuts which as far as I can tell is wrong. SNG don't list a nut for this but I'm guessing it should be an ordinary nut and spring washer of some description.
I have a feeling this may be the first of many questions, so please bear with me.

Cheers

Alan

[Moeregaard]

Sounds like you're dangerously close to experiencing a case of shipwright's disease or, as I like to call it, "Adjacent Part Syndrome." My E-Type restoration started as a simple valve job.

Anyway, to answer your question regarding manifold hardware, the correct lock washer is #JA-FG105X and the corresponding nut is 07-1010. Depending on condition, you might consider replacing the studs as well, which are #C11761 and C32775, for the 1-5/8" and 1-1/2" lengths, respectively (you'll need to measure yours).

All of these part numbers are taken from the XKs Unlimited catalog, which typically uses Jaguar factory numbers.

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Hi Mark

Thanks for info.
Yes there does seem to be a bit of "mission creep" going on here. I can only imagine the daily phone calls I 'd get if a garage was doing this for me!
Well today I discovered that I also need a new brake reservoir bottle which has been leaking down the flexible hose and handily stripping the paint on my newly rebuilt servo. This has pretty much condemned the servo as well because I've not been happy with the pedal feel since the rebuild. So I'll have a new one of those as well please.
Anyway I'll see what the next session brings.

Cheers

Alan

[paulsco]

Hi Alan,

The inlet manifold nuts are plain ordinary 5/16 UNF nuts, not nylock.

Paul

[abowie]

Hi Alan,

The inlet manifold nuts are plain ordinary 5/16 UNF nuts, not nylock.

Paul

The S1 parts manual lists the nuts as UFN131/Q which are bronze.

SNG have them here.

[christopher storey]

Andrew : those are exhaust manifold nuts aren't they?

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Well today was the first day that I didn't discover anything untoward, so things are looking up at last.
My latest question concerns the rear gearbox mount. The shaft that screws into the bottom of the gearbox and runs through the spring has a hole drilled through it which had a large split pin in it.
I spoke to a friend who has been through all this and he is adamant that there should be no split or cottar pin in it. It apparently should be allowed to "float free" from the base plate. Is this right-if so why is there a hole in it?
Taking this off allowed me access to the two lower prop shaft bolts and their nuts. Rolling the car back and forward to access them from the top would have been a tad difficult since the car is four feet in the air at the moment.
Last night I discovered that the main hose to the lower radiator inlet has a bad leak so it has been added to the ever growing list of replacement parts. In fact I've thrown caution to the wind and ordered a full set of hoses-sheer extravagance! At this rate I'll be on SNGB's Christmas card list.

Cheers

Alan

PS Should the speedo angle drive be "wobbly" to the touch. It is securely screwed into the gearbox but the knuckle where the cable exits seems to be able to swivel like it's connected via a ball mount. I think this is how it's meant to be since the speedo has always operated correctly.

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Hello Again

Well the wobbly speedo drive was due to the fact that it was only finger tight on the gearbox threaded outlet.
I've also drained and removed the brake servo reservoir bottle because it seemed to be leaking. This is especially frustrating since it was only replaced two years ago. There doesn't appear to be any obvious leak and I suspect it may be sweating, since brake fluid appeared to be all over it. Has anyone else experienced this with replacement bottles?
I've filled it with water and left it overnight but again strongly suspect that it will be bone dry on the outside.
Am I right in thinking that water will not sweat like brake fluid?

Cheers

Alan

[christopher storey]

Alan : the split pin was installed when new at the factory purely to restrain the engine and box from excessive vertical motion during shipping, and would have been removed by the dealer at the Pre Delivery Inspection. So your friend is correct

And yes - don't tighten the speedo drive connection excessively - finger tight with a little free movement is ideal

[E600]

Alan
I suspect your brake fluid problem isn't leakage, more that the other bottle is draining down causing it to overflow, normally caused by a seal leaking in the servo. Does the upper bottle ever requine topping up?

Regards
Pat

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Christopher

Thanks for the info. Knowing Jaguar's attention to cost I was suspicious of the drilled hole being there for no reason. A split pin will not be refitted then.
The speedo connection was hardly finger tight either. I could get a good few turns on it with just two fingers. It looks like someone had previously gone all out to tighten it though-definite signs of mole grips being used. I was all set to do the same but thankfully, being ever hopeful, decided to check it first.

Pat

There isn't an overflow issue with the bottle it is definitely sweating. The fluid was running down the connecting hose and dripping onto the bell of the servo and no I've not had to top it up. Very frustrating since I completely rebuilt the servo and gave it a complete blast and repaint. The paint has bubbled up right around the upper vacuum connection so is very noticable.

Cheers

Alan

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Hello again

Well not much time to do anything tonight, so I decided to do a bit of blasting. I was very surprised how easy the remains of the enamel coating on the exhaust came off. So my question for today is what is the best gloss black coating for the manifolds?
I seem to remember an earlier thread which recommended barbecue paint but which one?

Cheers

Alan