Fitting new toggles to switches

[andrewh]

I have bought a new set of black toggles to fit my original switch gear but not sure how to get them to fit without potentially putting too much pressure on the switch . Anyone found a solution to this? They are very tight. Of course if I open out the hole then they will be too lose and require gluing . Maybe that the way?

[265bhp]

Hi Andrew

If they are too tight you will not be able to adjust them (f needed) to make sure they all insert the same length..and angle....so a little loose and araldite would be a good compromise..if they are new plastic they will also have the tell tale signs of mould flash marks down the sides..you should sand with emery papers of various grades..end up with 1200 grit nicely worn out..then polish using T Cut or metal polish or even tooth paste on old cloths to restore the shine..the originals being bakerlite didn't have these mould marks....

Just me and my OCD attention to detail...;)

Jonathan

[andrewh]

thanks Jonathan. I like the thought process and don't like the mould marks. I wonder if I were to heat the ends of the switch with a soldering iron for a short while, whether this would be enough to mould the toggle into position. The problem of course is that you have to be careful to make sure the soldering iron doesn't do any damage to the switch internals. Someone else must have fitted new toggles???!!!???

[265bhp]

I wouldn't try heat as if they cool off too soon you may end up with a toggle half stuck on.....I was going to replace mine but deceided against due to the look of the new ones am afraid...so I sanded each original down and added successsive minute appliancations of highly liquid type superglue with sanding in between to fill any cracks, and then finally blackened with indelible magic markers...leaves a nice sheen

I'm pretty sure if you drill them out with hand held drill bits...not powered as they could also generate too much heat...you can then test fit and then apply some araldite to the projecting spike..and slip the toggle over the end...just like gluing a dental crown in place

[abowie]

I've done this. Just push hard.

[andrewh]

Ok. Will have another go. Maybe the one I tried was a bit tight. Thx.

[abowie]

Ok. Will have another go. Maybe the one I tried was a bit tight. Thx.

Yes from memory it was pretty hard but I did it by hand and they haven't fallen off 2 years later.

[andrewh]

Just to finish on this subject. I took another look at the original toggles and after cleaning them with chrome cleaner I have decided to stick with the originals. They are a lot better than the reproduction, surprise there then, and they fit much easier. I did try to push the new ones on but it was just putting too much strain into the switch for me to be happy. I was about to revert to drilling them out and glueing the on when I changed to the old ones. Thanks for the feedback.

[ralphr1780]

I too have kept the old ones. It is because they have lost their lustre that they look much better than new ones. In fact they simply look right! Imho.

[Jeremy]

Andrew, did you find the original switches still function OK? I was wondering if I ought to replace mine for reliability/safety reasons, but I gather the quality of the new ones might be questionable. I would much prefer to keep the originals, but not sure what "restoration" work is possible, if indeed it's necessary at all. Any advice?

thanks,

[Philk]

Andrew, did you find the original switches still function OK? I was wondering if I ought to replace mine for reliability/safety reasons, but I gather the quality of the new ones might be questionable. I would much prefer to keep the originals, but not sure what "restoration" work is possible, if indeed it's necessary at all. Any advice?

thanks,

I have just "restored" the internals of a couple of my switches by tracking down good quality Lucas switches of the same era. Whilst switches often had different toggles on them, the internals were often identical. I managed to repair the internals of my two stage fan blower switch by buying a New Old Stock 1965 Riley 1300 switch, stripping it down and swapping across the parts that needed changing. The cost was a fraction of buying a new switch and far more satisfying to know that you still have a fully period switch.

[Series1 Stu]

..the originals being bakerlite didn't have these mould marks....

Just me and my OCD attention to detail...;)

Jonathan

Hi Jonathan

I think the reproduction toggles are just badly made. The flash is due to badly matched mould halves. Annoyingly, I use the same Chinese moulders as the parts suppliers do and they always make a better job of my stuff than they do for the Jaguar specialists.

I'm not sure whether the original toggles are Bakelite, but the lack of flash lines is due to the quality of the moulding and/or the post moulding operations. In fact, if they are Bakelite, they would be compression moulded which tends to leave a flash line that needs dressing off.

One way to tell us to try to melt one. Bakelite, being a thermosetting plastic, will not remelt.

I haven't closely studied the switches yet but will do when I get home.

Regards

[Herblay]

One follow-up question to this matter. Where to buy good reproduction toggles?

Best regards

[jeremybarnes]

Any chance that someone has one toggle they'd be interested in selling/getting rid of? I need the one for the hazard light switch in my late S1, but the usuals only sell them in packs of 6 as best as I can see.

Many thanks,

[Mark Gordon]

I'm about to replace the windscreen wiper switch on my '67. I'd be glad to send you the toggle (if I can get it off of the old switch) if you'd PM me your address.

[jeremybarnes]

Brilliant, thanks Mark! PM sent...