The 'E' Type Forum

Hi,

I am trial fitting my chrome door frames and quarter light prior to paint and am having a few problems.
Firstly, does anybody have a picture of how the rubbers should fit on the top rear edge of the frame?

It appears that the top rubber stops at about 1/16" before the end of the frame and the back side rubber goes up to about 1/16" from the top. I deduce this from the fact that the channel in the frame stops in this way.
This of course leaves a square missing between the two, which doesn’t look quite right?

The second problem is that there is not enough room between the back of the door frame and the quarter light hinge pillar for both the hinge pillar seal and the corresponding seal on the back of the door frame to fit, or more precisely to close properly.
The frame is about 1/4" from the A post/ windscreen pillar at the front and about the same at the back.

I cannot move the frame further forward without elongating the mounting holes, but this would obviously make the front gap smaller.I cannot move the hinge pillar backwards ether because of the limitations with the mountings.

As there were no rubbers on the doors when I bought the car and I have restored the door frames and skins, I am not sure how close the gaps would have originally been.

The hinge pillar rubber and frame rubber seem to interlock according to the diagram in the parts manual; is this correct?

Thanks,

Paul

Paul,

I'm just finishing up the doors on my 64 FHC and have not installed those seals as yet, but it looks like the top rear corner could be addressed by making a 45 degree cut in the corner of the two seals where they meet. Then join the two 45's with super glue. That said, I have the same concern with the small space between the "B" post and the chrome window frame on the door (about 1/4 inch). Not an issue across the top, and I have about 1/2 inch at the forward edge (A post). The frames are as far forward as possible. I might be able to adjust the door slightly forward, but the fit and gaps look "right" as they are and I hesitate to change anything. I have read other posts about this on blogs and on Jag-Lovers, and the problem at the B-post seems wide spread. One individual trimmed the flap at the rear edge of the window frame. For now, I'm going to leave the one at the rear edge of the door frame off as I have the window frame adjusted so that it is snug against the seal on the B-post. By the way, the doors and frames on my car are original, but the seals were not installed when I got it, so I'm left with searching the internet for photos. I'll follow up with you if I hit pay dirt.

You might take a look at the series of photos of first FHC in the "Factory Fit" section of this site ( a 1961 gunmetal with red interior car). There is a good photo of the seals on an open door, and it looks the top/rear corner was a sloppy fit from the factory. On the other hand, it's a 1961 and the seals on the window frame look like they might be of a different design....

John Carey has a couple of decent views and a discussion of the problem on his YouTube site. A video titled "Adjusting the Doors" has some decent views. If I remember correctly, he also speaks to trimming that rear seal somewhere else in another segment:

https://www.youtube.com/user/JohnCarey1963Jag

Hi Eric,

The top frame rubber is about twice the height of the side one, so I think a 45 join will not be very successful.



This is the configuration I have used on the door and quarterlight post but with the loose sided inside each other:



The problem with this is when closing the door, the loose side of the door seal does not get past the quarterlight frame and sits against it.

This is what I am thinking of doing next, but whether there is enough room I do not know yet:



Thanks for your help and suggestions,

Paul

paulsco wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2018 10:13 pm

Hi Eric,

The top frame rubber is about twice the height of the side one, so I think a 45 join will not be very successful.

The rubber I usually use is the same all around the door; I've not seen the taller one. I just run one continuous strip all around the whole door.

Paul,

The seals in my kit are different widths for the rear and top/forward door frame...so indeed, the 45 degree angle idea won't work. But while experimenting with the orientations shown in your photos, I noticed that the cross section for the rear seals in my kit is completely different from those shown in your photos. Specifically, the free tabs/flaps are angled away from the base instead of angling inward toward the base....obtuse angle versus acute angle. There's absolutely no way I can make them work together as configured. Time to speak with the suppliers. How strange.

So, thank you for the help.