The 'E' Type Forum

In the near future, I plan to remove my 3.8 engine to address a lower timing chain rattle and tend to some oil leaks (rear crank seal upgrade - is this a good idea?) I’ll also replace the clutch and uni-joints and investigate the cause of a bearing?/reverse idler gear? noise when the clutch pedal is depressed.
I note SNGB have a timing chain kit available for around £90. Has anyone had any experience with the quality of these? Also any recommendations for a clutch kit?

Cheers
Pete

Hi Pete,
No problem with the timing chain from SNG.
I didn't like the new hydraulic tensiner so I made a mix between old and new.
I kept the box and only change the piston. It's working fine.
For the clutch, take the same size as your old of course and ask a trade mark item
Ask them to sale you the best quality they have and not repro when it's possible.
Mich

Although mine is a series 2, I got a new 3 piece clutch set from SNG and it is fine.

Thanks for this info, much appreciated

I'm aware that there are lots of noises both in the trade and on forums about the quality and longevity of the timing-chain and tensioner assembly parts being sold at the moment.

Some horror stories about very short life-span etc

I even considered re-fitting my old parts as they look fine and have been in there nearly 30 years.

The timing-chain "set" from SNGB is indeed very cheap, £82 in fact.

However, "original quality" it is most definitely not, and if you ask SNGB for the best stuff they've got, the tensioner at least is genuine Jaguar (does that mean anything ?), the chains look very Chermann, and the cost of the same "set" comes to £198.

I'll happily spend the £116 difference if I can be sure that I'm not going to see the pads de-bonding after 3.000 miles.

But if the £82 set de-bonds after 3.000 miles, why would anyone sell them anyway ?

And if they don't de-bond why am I spending the extra £116 ?

Au secours.

Hi Rory,
It's like the hotel. If you take a room in 4 stars you have all the chance to receive smiles and good service. If you take it in a 2 stars you receive ... a key!
But of course, and in all case, you could find an exception.
for all the time I spend on my E I prefer the higher quality parts even if it's more expensive.
Mich

I would recommend contacting Rob Beere and see what he offers. Only today he was telling me about these very problems with inconsistent aftermarket tensioners - they had to rebuild an engine after one of these came apart and wrought havoc.

Use the Landrover tensioner. Don't use chains with joining links.
AP branded clutches are available from the usuals and this is what we use.
Rear oil seal "upgrades" are a lottery; some people are very happy with them, others not so. I have had good success with the standard rope seals on my cars.
If you have a Moss box noisy operation is normal. While bearings, seals and shafts are available new, none of the other components are so you are pretty much stuck with what you have. Having said that, if you plan to remove the engine, rebuilding the gearbox is always a good idea; about $1k in parts and $800 in labour.