Starting Without Choke

Talk about the E-Type Series 1

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PAUL MORRIS
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#1 Starting Without Choke

Post by PAUL MORRIS » Thu May 20, 2010 8:35 am

Dear All,
I recently cleaned every wire visible & changed what i felt damaged.
Also used equivelent of WD40 where I thought best in addition to new connections etc. As a result the engine fires First time as cold with no Choke whilst before it needed nearly Full Choke. Would you advise to still use the Choke ?
Thks
Paul

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frogeater
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#2

Post by frogeater » Thu May 20, 2010 9:22 am

Hello Paul,
For cleaning the wire, you could use a "bombe contact ?lectrique" you may find in a a supermarket (like "super u" for me). It would be better than wd40 which will let some "gras" on the wire.
For the Choke, The less you use it and the better is: I don't use it when it's not necesary. (but , please wait for a better and more technical advice).

PS Have you planned to go to the GPAO in burgundy or in "Le Mans Classic"? :bye:

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1954Etype
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#3 Re: STARTING WITHOUT CHOKE

Post by 1954Etype » Thu May 20, 2010 9:49 am

PAUL MORRIS wrote:Dear All,
I recently cleaned every wire visible & changed what i felt damaged.
Also used equivelent of WD40 where I thought best in addition to new connections etc. As a result the engine fires First time as cold with no Choke whilst before it needed nearly Full Choke. Would you advise to still use the Choke ?
Thks
You might find that the mixture is too rich if you dont need choke

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PAUL MORRIS
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#4

Post by PAUL MORRIS » Thu May 20, 2010 12:20 pm

Dear Frogeater,
Now thats a good name, its just tates like excellent chicken anyway.
I never knew where to buy them to be cooked I eat Rabbit but never tell the Children as they will be sick. I cant get to Classic events so much yet as My Wife has not digested the Car yet, in fact I am not sure she ever will. I might go the Hill climb race 10km from my house Chanteloup les vignes, maybe it was invented their I will look up.
Paul
Sushi man (26 years of Mitsubishi)
Paul

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#5 HILL CLIMB RACE

Post by PAUL MORRIS » Thu May 20, 2010 12:34 pm

Dear All,
Please kindly kindly note that on the 6th at Chanteloup-les-Vignes a hill climb race will be held for the 112th edition being the Worlds Oldest. Also it seems a 64 Etype is racing, certainly not me, I am broke.
Paul



Chaque ann?e, un groupe de passionn?s fait revivre un pan de l?histoire chantelouvaise avec le meeting de la course de c?te, qui f?te cette ann?e ? son 112?me anniversaire. Ce rendez-vous r?unira des passionn?s de voitures anciennes, qui reprendront l?ascension de la c?te historique, limit?e aujourd?hui ? 900m pour une pente de 14%, au volant de voitures mythiques.

JAGUAR TYPE E 1964, DELAGE D6 17 3 litres 1931, AUSTIN ULSTER SPECIAL 1930, BUGATTI SALMSON S4 1931, HISPANO SUIZA H6B, LAMBERT BOL D?OR 1949? sont quelques-uns des mod?les qui seront pr?sents le 6 juin prochain. Depuis quelques ann?es, motos et side-cars ont rejoint les voitures. Spectacle garanti !

Rendez-vous dimanche 6 juin au parking St-Roch d?s 10h00 pour la premi?re ascension de la c?te de l?Hautil, suivie de deux autres ? 14h00 et 16h00. La remise des troph?es aura lieu ? 18h00.



f June a Hill Climb Race will be
Paul

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PAUL MORRIS
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#6

Post by PAUL MORRIS » Thu May 20, 2010 12:38 pm

For those of You who speak English & dont Eat Frogs please find the Link below. See You At the Race with Some Wine & Smelly Cheese

http://mg4sale.free.fr/course-chantelou ... 07-en.html
Paul

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#7

Post by frogeater » Thu May 20, 2010 2:20 pm

Hello Paul,
I must confess, I never try to eat a frog. I choose this name on this english forum, just because of the wellknown "prejug?".
Thank you for the link you put, but I won't be able to come.
I hope that your wife will come and find that you are not alone to buy these "silly rusty things". Time may be great in that matter. :oops:
My girlfriend find that the e type in fhc dark blue (like yours) is the most beautiful car (even if she doesn't see the point to drive it, and prefer to look at her in a garage).
(Very happy for you, that your problem of engine oil was solved without great expenses.)

The councel of 1954 etype have to be heard: do you mean that you don't need any choke after one week at a ugly morning weather or just after some hours letting the car in a sunny place?

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PAUL MORRIS
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#8

Post by PAUL MORRIS » Fri May 21, 2010 7:02 am

Dear Frogeater,
My wife certainly wont come for sure, for the Choke its a cold start at about 6c in May. By the way how far do you push the engine on the Rev counter ? What is your max speed ?
Paul
Paul

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Heuer
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#9

Post by Heuer » Fri May 21, 2010 9:27 am

In my experience the XK engine needs full choke to start from cold and you can then gradually reduce the amount of choke as the engine warms. The speed of reduction will depend on ambient temperature but after about 5 miles you should be able to run without choke. Remember on the E-Type the first movement of the choke lever should only increase idling revs, further movement adds the choke. Each engine is different so you will need to learn what works for you. Only problem with using the choke is the enriched mixture can produce 'bore wash' - i.e. unburnt petrol washes the oil off the cylinder walls increasing wear but as long as you are circumspect in removing choke as soon as possible it should not be a problem.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2026 Lexus LBX

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daverawle
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#10

Post by daverawle » Fri May 21, 2010 9:38 am

Heuer wrote:In my experience the XK engine needs full choke to start from cold and you can then gradually reduce the amount of choke as the engine warms. The speed of reduction will depend on ambient temperature but after about 5 miles you should be able to run without choke. Remember on the E-Type the first movement of the choke lever should only increase idling revs, further movement adds the choke. Each engine is different so you will need to learn what works for you. Only problem with using the choke is the enriched mixture can produce 'bore wash' - i.e. unburnt petrol washes the oil off the cylinder walls increasing wear but as long as you are circumspect in removing choke as soon as possible it should not be a problem.
Paul,

Same for mine, must use maximum choke when the engine is completely cold. Once stated move the choke to mid-way to get out of the drive and onto the street. The fast running position is usually adequate for the next couple of miles although for safety I use some choke at stop junctions until it's warmed up. I suspect it's running rich if yours is not similar.

Dave
1963 OTS

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frogeater
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#11

Post by frogeater » Fri May 21, 2010 10:01 am

PAUL MORRIS wrote:Dear Frogeater,
My wife certainly wont come for sure, for the Choke its a cold start at about 6c in May. By the way how far do you push the engine on the Rev counter ? What is your max speed ?
Paul
Hello Paul,
I can't answer you to that question for the simple reason I never drove a jaguar. :oops:
I've exchanged in 1996 a 504 coup?, against a daimler xj6 s?rie1 but the car have an engine ceased (and also a rotten body) so I gave it to a personn in 2000.
In 1997, I've bought my etype to restore and I hope the restoration will be finished in some months.
I've bought a mk2 3,4 in 1997 or 98 to restore also, and this car is awaiting the finishing of the e type and perhaps that I have also the time to do all the mechanic by myself, because I would want to make a complete mechanical restoration once in my life....
I must add, that on all my driving cars (classic and modern) I never push hard and change the gears at nearly 3000rpm (sometimes less)

So please, wait for more experts personns to answer you on this post :wink:

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pmansson
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#12 Full choke: still not enough when cold

Post by pmansson » Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:44 am

My car is very difficult to start when cold, and not used for >1 week.
Full choke, and 6-8 tries will eventually get it going.
OK, during that time I build up a little oil pressure and splash about the oil in the lower regions, but perhaps I need to adjust.....?

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Heuer
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#13

Post by Heuer » Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:04 am

Same here. If I use the car every day it starts on the first crank of the motor. Leave it for a week and it can take five or six goes to get it going. Leave it a month or longer and it takes even more churning. Personally I think they really are like cats - they sulk if you do not give them attention :shock:
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2026 Lexus LBX

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#14 Re: Full choke: still not enough when cold

Post by daverawle » Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:21 am

pmansson wrote:My car is very difficult to start when cold, and not used for >1 week.
Full choke, and 6-8 tries will eventually get it going.
OK, during that time I build up a little oil pressure and splash about the oil in the lower regions, but perhaps I need to adjust.....?
If the car's not used for more than a week I find leaving the fuel pump run for a minute before pushing the button works well.
Dave
1963 OTS

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#15

Post by pmansson » Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:16 am

And somebody told me to push the gas peda to the bottom twice, before attempting to push the button.

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Heuer
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#16

Post by Heuer » Mon Sep 27, 2010 1:13 pm

That should make no difference unless you have Webers on the car. SU's do not have a throttle injection pump so pressing the pedal will have no effect unless you turn over the engine at the same time.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2026 Lexus LBX

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