rubber mounting to chassis member rear suspension cradle

[Jerryslinn]

I have a bolt which seems to be rusted to the guide tube in the chassis member where the rubber mounting block is attached. I have dropped the cradle and removed it but cannot release this bolt despite soaking with release oil for a couple of days. The bolt spins and has some movement in and out but will not come free.
Anyone had this problem?

[Gfhug]

Jerry, it’s at times like this that a photo will help show just what your problem is.
Have you tried pressing it out with a g-cramp with a socket over the open end?
Might be worth trying

Geoff

[christopher storey]

Jerry : a very common problem. What I suggest you do is make sure that the cradle is supported, then make up a drift longer in length but smaller in diameter than the bolt, which IIRC is 5/16" and then tap the bolt out from the inside .

[Jerryslinn]

Photo of seized bolt. Will try with a G clamp tomorrow - thanks for help

[44DHR]

Hi Jerry,
Also doing a bit of work on my rear axle at the moment.
This is the stuff I use - Crack-it Shock-Freeze Release Spray. Better than using heat and the freeze action breaks the corrosion seal, plus it contains a penetrating oil as it freezes the components down to - 50 degrees C.
Great stuff at £7.45 from Screwfix and other suppliers.
Cheers,
Dave

[Jerryslinn]

Thanks for the tip Dave - will try to get some tomorrow - just hope I can get it to penetrate into the chassis arm.
As you can see from the photo access is limited and if the bolt is rusted to the guide tube over its full length then it may take several applications along with pressure with the G clamp and probably some persuasion with the lump hammer!

[44DHR]

Jerry,
With the end of the bolt sticking out, it could be a long liberal spray on that part will freeze the bolt through the sleeve and the freezing action will “crack” the corrosion joint between them. It is quite clever stuff in that you let it do it’s own work in a couple of minutes after applying, as the two “joined” components will return to room temperature at different rates and effectively separate with the added action of the penetrating oil. Sometimes you can actually hear a “crack” as the action takes place.
Cheers,
Dave

[politeperson]

I guess you dont want to clout it all too hard, or you risk damaging the chassis leg.

This good old stuff has a large fan base for unseizing rusted metal. It has magic ingredients.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PB-BLASTER-P ... SwogVf-D8O

[Jerryslinn]

Many thanks to all who have offered their help - I have today cut off the head of the bolt and removed the mounting bracket. This allowed me to drive the bolt and tube out together leaving the oversized hole shown in the photo. I now have to find a way to get a sleeve back into the chassis leg and close up the hole