Hi Guys/Gals,
I've had a scan through the various postings previously mentioning the fitting of roof aerials.
My issue is this, the car has been painted but glass and interior not fitted.
I have a roof aerial about to be fitted. The restorer is suggesting I keep this inactive as running the cable down to the rear of the dash looks problematic.
So, the location of the aerial will be aligned slightly "back" behind the windscreen glass etc - it can go where we like of course ) But - is there an issue with running the aerial wire? I haven't looked in detail but I'm guessing something like taped across the inner roof area and down the side of the screen post? Surely the roof lining can accommodate this?
Or am I being too optimistic?
any input welcome.
thanks / John
Series 1 2+2 roof aerial
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#2 Re: Series 1 2+2 roof aerial
John, my roof aerial goes from just behind the screen sideways along the metal cross section to the A post and down from there. I fitted an adapted to size dab booster in the cross section but a bit of a struggle to fit neatly.
So it can be done.
Note others saying that Pilkington supply aerial in the windscreen as an option, you might wish to consider that.
Depends also on what you want to listen to or stream, such that you can do without an aerial.
Geoff
So it can be done.
Note others saying that Pilkington supply aerial in the windscreen as an option, you might wish to consider that.
Depends also on what you want to listen to or stream, such that you can do without an aerial.
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#3 Re: Series 1 2+2 roof aerial
The issue (certainly in my car) would be that the roof lining is glued directly to the inside of the roof so the roof aerial base and cable can only go around the very edge of the roof and be hidden inside the cant rails otherwise you'll see them tracking under the roof liner.
Whilst a roof mounted aerial is the best option for an aerial mounted through a hole in the bodywork from the point of view of performance and security, personally I wouldn't want to put a hole in my roof if there wasn't already one there you need to cover up.
Whilst a roof mounted aerial is the best option for an aerial mounted through a hole in the bodywork from the point of view of performance and security, personally I wouldn't want to put a hole in my roof if there wasn't already one there you need to cover up.
John
1969 Series 2 FHC
1969 Series 2 FHC
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#4 Re: Series 1 2+2 roof aerial
Geoff / John,
grateful thanks for your input.... I'll have a ponder and a chat with my restorer armed with your comments !!
grateful thanks for your input.... I'll have a ponder and a chat with my restorer armed with your comments !!
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#5 Re: Series 1 2+2 roof aerial
I’ve said this before.......
In my car the radio / CD player is never switched on. Not ever. There are a number of reasons.
The E-Type cabin is one of the noisiest at speed of any car I have ever owned. There is no sound deadening under the bonnet, nor around the gearbox, and only some very old material on the floors.
The standard speakers are small and weak and poorly positioned (there is no resonating box to boost the lower frequencies).
My car also has rear speakers, but.......Mounting rear speakers required trim and metalwork butchery, which was badly executed (by a PO who was also an E-Type “specialist”).
But most importantly, when I drive my car I spend the whole journey listening to the car - the engine, the gearbox, the road noises, the suspension. Old cars talk to their drivers, if they have an ear to listen. There are rattles and squeaks, bumps and whines. All these noises let the hearing and listening driver know how the car is wearing. Regularly driven roads provide the driver with a database of noises with which the car communicates its current health. Small even subtle changes let the driver know when bushes, bearings and joints are getting worn, or when the engine is getting out of tune (which it will). There is nothing more satisfying than hearing a new noise, identifying where it is and fixing the worn part that made it.
If I want to listen to the radio while driving I’ll drive another car.
Actually, I won’t. Years of riding motorcycles has made me aware of the dangers of distractions while driving. At the very most I will talk to my passenger, but more usually I’ll concentrate on driving.
In my car the radio / CD player is never switched on. Not ever. There are a number of reasons.
The E-Type cabin is one of the noisiest at speed of any car I have ever owned. There is no sound deadening under the bonnet, nor around the gearbox, and only some very old material on the floors.
The standard speakers are small and weak and poorly positioned (there is no resonating box to boost the lower frequencies).
My car also has rear speakers, but.......Mounting rear speakers required trim and metalwork butchery, which was badly executed (by a PO who was also an E-Type “specialist”).
But most importantly, when I drive my car I spend the whole journey listening to the car - the engine, the gearbox, the road noises, the suspension. Old cars talk to their drivers, if they have an ear to listen. There are rattles and squeaks, bumps and whines. All these noises let the hearing and listening driver know how the car is wearing. Regularly driven roads provide the driver with a database of noises with which the car communicates its current health. Small even subtle changes let the driver know when bushes, bearings and joints are getting worn, or when the engine is getting out of tune (which it will). There is nothing more satisfying than hearing a new noise, identifying where it is and fixing the worn part that made it.
If I want to listen to the radio while driving I’ll drive another car.
Actually, I won’t. Years of riding motorcycles has made me aware of the dangers of distractions while driving. At the very most I will talk to my passenger, but more usually I’ll concentrate on driving.
Chris '67 S1 2+2
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