OIL COOLER FOR 4.2 OVERALL TEMP AND OIL

[gtjoey]

Im at a great stage, constantly playing with the car.
Ive always had oil coolers on other cars.
My completely rebuilt 4.2 series 1, with a spin on filter.
The cooler the car runs, the sweeter it is.
If I use a cooler, besides the extra quart or two, will it contribute to overall cooling ?
It cant hurt and Im not tracking the car.
ANYONE HERE have one with REAL life driving :)
Thanks in advance.
GTJOEY1314

[PeterCrespin]

It sheds heat so it contributes to cooling, but is not really necessary unless your temp runs hot during your kind of driving.

Ideally you should run an oil thermostat to prevent overcooling. Remember it's in some senses the opposite to the water cooling system. Oil gets hottest at high speed and revs. It does not get too hot (often the reverse) in slower city driving. Your water cooling is often the other way around, struggling more in slow traffic.

Since you have a five speed and drive huuuuge mileages on the open road, you don't need an oil cooler. If your spin-on adapter was the XJ6 type with built-in oil cooler points, you could have my cooler and stainless braided hoses setup which came off an E but isn't needed by me either after I bought the correct D-Type unit.

[gtjoey]

Pete No 5 speed yet , STILL waiting on something that will work!
Hopefully soon.
8,000 miles in 11 months since the rebuild.
Did, you make it to Amelia this year?
Sadly the show took a turn for the worse.
GTJOEY1314

[PeterCrespin]

All the 5-speeds work, with varied features & benefits. You've had lots of testimonials so just need to pick your price point and pull the trigger.

Was in Ft. Myers for the Jag festival in Oct, then NovDecJan in UK and Milwaukee for the AGM, so no Amelia.

[gtjoey]

Its on the way :)
Most of the ones one the market are not up to par.
I will reveal once its all done.
My old jt5 from Paul in Florida WAS the best but he is long gone on new ones.
I might miss the Indy 500 as Im not sure I want to drive the E again without the 5th gear.
Once you drive a 6/8 or 10 speed , you sure get spoiled.
GTJOEY1314
GLad to hear your out and about!

[Heuer]

I had an oil cooler on my OTS and it caused the only breakdown on all our 50,000 miles worth of European touring. Basically one of the rubber oil lines failed spewing oil on to the road, something the German authorities are particularly picky about. Now removed never to grace the car again.

Did it make a difference - no, temps were the same with and without it and we are talking 42C in Biarritz and climbing Alpine passes in an enthusiatic manner.

They are a pain to install as the only place to put one is in front of the radiator which in turn impacts water temperature. It has to be mounted tight (and I mean tight) against the radiator otherwise air flow through both will be compromised. I have seen them mounted at 45 degrees but that causes disruption to smooth air flow.

An upgrade 'game of consequences' which may be worth it on a race car but entirely pointless on a road car.

If you want a real upgrade Joey, fit the cable throttle system. Beats power steering, 123 ignition, 5 speed or anything else you can chuck at the car. The rod linkage was one of the biggest E-Type design failings carried over from the cars of the 1950's.

[gtjoey]

I was sooo close but that long wayaroundis tough to swallow.
On my Mark 2 past owner created a throttle cable set up which was connected to the cam cover!
Neat set up and was very short.
I dont thing we can do it as the bonnet is to tight over the top?
But I do love the idea.
gtjoey1314

[Heuer]

No cables really visible if you follow Angus's method of clipping them to the bulkhead on his LHD car:


No doubt he can provide more install details if you need them.

[flatfloor 3.8]

I have never understood what is wrong with the original rod system.It never gives me any trouble.What are the supposed benefits (if any) especially at £700. The couple that i have seen look quite untidy.

[Heuer]

The rod system is inherently flawed. The throttle linkage is fixed to the solid bulkhead whilst the engine is on flexible mounts. When you accelerate the torque causes the engine twist which then adusts the throttle setting. Lift off and the opposite happens so you never have precise control over the throttle position. Driving an E- Type with a cable throttle is a revelation and once you have done so you will not want to go back. So the £700 is a bargain and you also get twice the pedal travel so you can modulate the throttle precisely. In my case I also improved fuel consumption by about 3mpg.

[mtnjag]

Not sure on the RHD version but on the LHD version you can opt for a lower placement of the throttle pedal in effect giving more leg room to the go pedal.