Rear crank oil seal on 3.8

[No Quarter]

It's been a pain with my local parts supplier on this. First he sent a lower gasket set, but the two seals included were too big diameter. Today he sent two others, marked C19654, and they have correct diameter. But I think they are too wide to fit in the groove. I read in the Haynes about hammering a bit on them, but this is not a little, I don't think I can get them down in the groove withou ruining them. Any tips on getting the right part and installing correctly?

Thanks

[mtnjag]

JCNA will loan you the sizing tool for free I believe.
The sizing tool would be the size of the crank.
Haven't done it been been told you can use a hammer handle to press it in and around.
Lots of pressing and working it.
Never heard you hammer on it, I have heard it's a PITA.

OOPS, sorry just noticed you're in Denmark. Guess the JCNA won't do you any good. Perhaps you can rent a sizing tool.

[Simonpfhc]

The white ones are too long and need trimming. They are also a bit fatter so need waaayyyyy more work to get the correct fit (using the correct sizing tool).

Save yourself a load of work and get the black graphite ones. SNGB sell them (probably others do too) but you will still need the sizing tool.

[abowie]

Never heard you hammer on it, I have heard it's a PITA.

This is pretty standard and it applies to either the black or white seals.

First you soften the seal by hitting it on both sides. The groove in the seal carrier is v shaped so that you get a good seal when the seal is pushed down.

I was taught to cut the seals with a razor blade so that there is about 3mm / 1/8" excess in total. Bill from Ballarat uses a technique where he uses a 20 thou feeler gauge flat on the carrier to end up with the seal slightly proud at about 40 thou or 1mm.

Then you use a piece of 3/4" or so round bar and tap it down on the sealing surface prior to fitting the sizing tool.

Once it's sized and we're ready to install the crank and tighten it all down we put Stag sealing compound in the groove under the seal, and a dob of RTV silicone where the two cut halves of the seal meet.

I'm sure that there are as many approaches to these seals as there are people installing them, but this approach seems to lead to seals that don't leak.

[No Quarter]

Thanks all, didn't even know there was a tool, better source one, nothing is worse than a leak between engine and gearbox...

[christopher storey]

Mikael : you can hire them through the Jaguar Enthusiasts' Club . Whether they will send them to Europe I do not know, but it is worth enquiring

[mgcjag]

Available from Rob Beere £110 http://www.rob-beere-racing.co.uk/tools.html

[abowie]

Thanks all, didn't even know there was a tool,

Don't take this the wrong way, but if that's the case I suggest you get some experienced help installing the seal.

If you do it wrong it will leak badly and you can't fix it without removing the engine.

I made my own, but I have been taught by an expert and built maybe 20 engines.

You can see how I have hammered the seals here too.

[No Quarter]

Thanks all, didn't even know there was a tool,

Don't take this the wrong way, but if that's the case I suggest you get some experienced help installing the seal.

No offense taken at all, willing to learn. My own experience is also rebuilding about 20 engines, but 17 were US V8s, I'm on my 3rd Jaguar engine, L6 and V12, and the first time I had to do a complete overhaul. I usually get by by reading the Haynes Manual and the OEM Service Manual very carefully, and haven't had an engine fail yet. But this tool is not mentioned in the Haynes Manual or the OEM Service Manual. I will buy it at and use it.

[abowie]

Note that mine is home made, the original tool is different as it is designed for use with both the 6 and V12 engines.

[No Quarter]

Remembered an English retired friend that used to work on Jaguars, I can borrow his tool. Thanks