Difficult to get into reverse
#1 Difficult to get into reverse
Hi,
My Dad has just bought a 1967 series 1 2+2, and he's finding it very difficult to get into reverse, I couldn't get it into reverse at all. Just wondering if anyone could give some advice on this?
thanks very much.
My Dad has just bought a 1967 series 1 2+2, and he's finding it very difficult to get into reverse, I couldn't get it into reverse at all. Just wondering if anyone could give some advice on this?
thanks very much.
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#2 Re: Difficult to get into reverse
Hi .....its not uncommon........does it go into reverse when the engine is not running.........no syncro in first or reverse so engageing 2nd then into reverse makes it easier. ..but very typical of the slave cylinder pushrod needing adjusting and possibly bleeding......Steve...and look here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12305
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#3 Re: Difficult to get into reverse
Thanks very much, will send him a link to this page
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#4 Re: Difficult to get into reverse
Steve : this is a 4.2, so there is synchro on all gears . If the idle speed is too high, i.e. significantly more than 700 rpm , this difficulty can arise . The original poster could try holding the lever against the "edge" of 1st or 2nd to stop the spinning and then try reverse
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#5 Re: Difficult to get into reverse
Hi Christopher...my typing error....just ment no syncro on reverse.....so it can help in engageing a syncro gear prior to selecting reverse.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#6 Re: Difficult to get into reverse
Thanks for the replies, I've let him know. He needs to change the header tank as its leaking but will try out what you have suggested after that, I'll update!
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#7 Re: Difficult to get into reverse
sparky Wrote:
You don't say what trying to select Reverse results in. Is it a case of the gears making a gnashing noise, or, is sencond gear selected instead of reverse.
If its a case of the clutch dragging and therefore, the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster Gear still spinning, then Reverse and the Reverse Idler Gear will be trying to engage with the Reverse Idler Gear still spinning and the two gears will gnash. Selecting any forward gear will stop the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster Gear from spinning if the clutch drag is not excessive and then Reverse can be selected with the Reverse Idler not spinning.
If your issue is that when trying to engage Reverse, its hard to push the Gear Lever far enough to the left and therefore, you end up selecting second gear, then the issue is the adjustment of the spring loaded ball bearing that helps prevent inadvertently selecting Reverse. The adjustment can be made by removing the centre console and gearbox tunnel top cover from inside the car. You will find a bolt locked in position with a lock nut, that when wound out a little, results in less resistance via the spring and will allow the Gear Lever to be pushed to the left more easily. You will find the adjustment procedure in a workshop manual for the car and if you don't have one, your father now being an E Type owner, should buy one. However, I've always found that the described method in the manual results in too much effort is required to bump the gear lever to the left to select reverse and I back it off a little.
If the issue is that you are getting the knob of the Gear Lever to the left enough to select Reverse, there is no gnashing of gears when trying to select Reverse, but it just won't go into gear, then its the common problem of the teeth of the Reverse Idler Gear and the Reverse Gear not being aligned closely enough (male gear tooth form of one with female form of the other) for the two gears to engage. The resolve to this is to engage the clutch (foot pressure off clutch pedal) for a moment, thus allowing the First Motion shaft and all gears through to but not including Reverse Gear to spin a little before trying to select Reverse again. If this is the case, you need to hesitate for a moment after the clutch pedal is pressed again, so as to allow the First Motion Shaft to stop spinning before attempting to select Reverse Gear again.
Regards,
Bill
Hello sparky,My Dad has just bought a 1967 series 1 2+2, and he's finding it very difficult to get into reverse, I couldn't get it into reverse at all. Just wondering if anyone could give some advice on this?
You don't say what trying to select Reverse results in. Is it a case of the gears making a gnashing noise, or, is sencond gear selected instead of reverse.
If its a case of the clutch dragging and therefore, the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster Gear still spinning, then Reverse and the Reverse Idler Gear will be trying to engage with the Reverse Idler Gear still spinning and the two gears will gnash. Selecting any forward gear will stop the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster Gear from spinning if the clutch drag is not excessive and then Reverse can be selected with the Reverse Idler not spinning.
If your issue is that when trying to engage Reverse, its hard to push the Gear Lever far enough to the left and therefore, you end up selecting second gear, then the issue is the adjustment of the spring loaded ball bearing that helps prevent inadvertently selecting Reverse. The adjustment can be made by removing the centre console and gearbox tunnel top cover from inside the car. You will find a bolt locked in position with a lock nut, that when wound out a little, results in less resistance via the spring and will allow the Gear Lever to be pushed to the left more easily. You will find the adjustment procedure in a workshop manual for the car and if you don't have one, your father now being an E Type owner, should buy one. However, I've always found that the described method in the manual results in too much effort is required to bump the gear lever to the left to select reverse and I back it off a little.
If the issue is that you are getting the knob of the Gear Lever to the left enough to select Reverse, there is no gnashing of gears when trying to select Reverse, but it just won't go into gear, then its the common problem of the teeth of the Reverse Idler Gear and the Reverse Gear not being aligned closely enough (male gear tooth form of one with female form of the other) for the two gears to engage. The resolve to this is to engage the clutch (foot pressure off clutch pedal) for a moment, thus allowing the First Motion shaft and all gears through to but not including Reverse Gear to spin a little before trying to select Reverse again. If this is the case, you need to hesitate for a moment after the clutch pedal is pressed again, so as to allow the First Motion Shaft to stop spinning before attempting to select Reverse Gear again.
Regards,
Bill
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#8 Re: Difficult to get into reverse
Hi Bill
Read your post with interest - thanks. I have a 1966 S1 OTS and I'm getting the crunch of teeth when putting it in reverse. Sometimes when I wait a few seconds it goes in but it seems to be getting worse. Engaging the clutch before trying doesn't seem to help much. I'm worried - doe sit mean a gearbox removal to fix?
Regards
Ray Loud
Read your post with interest - thanks. I have a 1966 S1 OTS and I'm getting the crunch of teeth when putting it in reverse. Sometimes when I wait a few seconds it goes in but it seems to be getting worse. Engaging the clutch before trying doesn't seem to help much. I'm worried - doe sit mean a gearbox removal to fix?
Regards
Ray Loud
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#9 Re: Difficult to get into reverse
Hello Ray,
If the gears are crunching when attempting to engage Reverse, it means that the First Motion Shaft and therefore, the Lay Cluster gear are rotating. This is due to the clutch dragging and may be cured by simply adjusting the Clutch Slave Cylinder stroke; there is much information on this Forum about this without rehashing it here.
You will be able to view the Clutch Throw-out bearing via the hole in the Bell Housing used to remove and replace the Clutch Throw-out bearing yoke, pivot pin. If the Throw-out Bearing is reasonably worn, the engine and gearbox will have to be removed to rectify.
To help in selecting Reverse without crunching, first select First Gear with the Clutch disengaged (clutch pedal depressed), then with the clutch still disengaged, move the gear lever to select Reverse. Selecting a Forward gear first, has the affect of stopping the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster from rotating; however this will only work if the drag of the clutch is not too bad.
Regards,
Bill
If the gears are crunching when attempting to engage Reverse, it means that the First Motion Shaft and therefore, the Lay Cluster gear are rotating. This is due to the clutch dragging and may be cured by simply adjusting the Clutch Slave Cylinder stroke; there is much information on this Forum about this without rehashing it here.
You will be able to view the Clutch Throw-out bearing via the hole in the Bell Housing used to remove and replace the Clutch Throw-out bearing yoke, pivot pin. If the Throw-out Bearing is reasonably worn, the engine and gearbox will have to be removed to rectify.
To help in selecting Reverse without crunching, first select First Gear with the Clutch disengaged (clutch pedal depressed), then with the clutch still disengaged, move the gear lever to select Reverse. Selecting a Forward gear first, has the affect of stopping the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster from rotating; however this will only work if the drag of the clutch is not too bad.
Regards,
Bill
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