Crank oil seal

[Tony]

I am think of having a crank oil seal as I am fed up with oil leaks. What can I expect to pay to have it done by others.

[mgcjag]

Hi Tony...front or rear or both....for rear the standard rope or modified split seal that requires the crank re machining... I have no idea of cost but for the rear it's engine out and crankshaft out....front can be done in situ if needed...getting quotes from the more reputable workshops would be the way to go ...Angus...CMC...etc....Steve

[malcolm]

Had mine done by Pitt Lane in Winchester. Harvey is the manager, nice chap. They did a good job with the new one piece? (I Think) seal. Never leaked since. Cost about £5k as I recall, but that included all parts including the new lightened and balanced flywheel, the machining etc. Also, while the engine was out, I had a new 3 piece clutch, new main and big end bearings and a few other bits done.

[Tony]

Sorry, used the wrong team lip seal when I should have said spit seal. At £5k it sounds very expensive but as you say you had a few extras done. Would it make it less expensive if I took the engine out myself and sent it away.
I know there is different views on whether to go split seal or rope seal but it sounds as if the spit seal is a bit more reliable.

[mgcjag]

Hi Tony...these things can snowball...you need the engine stripping down to do the rear seal...so then what else will the workshop find...have you replaced the rear sump seal and checked the cam oil feeds..these are often the cause of "rear" oil leaks....no good trying to do a rear crank seal on a budget...take it to a good shop and be prepared to pay for a job that fixes everything they find....there is no guarantee that these "after market" seals won't leak...Steve ..PS yes if you remove the engine yourself it will be cheaper....

[malcolm]

Sounds expensive, but the crank has to be ground to fit, new flywheel fitted etc

[mtnjag]

AS mgcjag said-Make sure it's not the rear Pan Seal.
I thought my rope crank seal has given up but my retired jag mechanic buddy said try the pan seal first.
I did- changed it and the gasket in my garage on stands and that was it.
Big expensive job went to a weekend on my back.

[44DHR]

Tony,
Are you sure where the oil leak is coming from the rear crank area ?
I had a similar concern that it was the Crank Seal, when in fact it was from the Sump Seal, where the curved end of the sump fits onto the main bearing casting. The old cork seal at the flywheel end had shrunk - and along the sump gasket sealing surface. A modern ribbed rubber seal and a little use of sealant on the seal ends sorted it.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19921&p=161846#p161846

Been completed some time now and no oil drips at all.
Cheers,
Dave

[andrewh]

I would not use a split seal. If you nick a seal it will leak so imagine cutting one in half and then gluing it back together. Not an engineering solution in my view. I only ever fitted one and it leaked, worse than a rope seal . The conversion to a one piece lip seal is the only way to go in my view. Good luck.

[Iansparky]

rob Beere Racing does 2 rear crank seals, a 1 piece modern lip seal but it requires the crank to be machined and a new flywheel,£1000 for the crank (exchange) seal and flywheel. He also does a flexi seal, its still a 1 piece seal, not split, but will flex over the end of the crank, it requires the crank grinding to 3 inch diameter and costs £220, not including crank machining, both sound much better than the split seal arrangement to me.
Ian

[caveman]

I thought the worst until I dropped the sump to find the rear cork seal had begun to perish. A new rubber type cut slightly longer to compress on refitting along with new sump gaskets and sealant and it has been dry for 3yrs now. Remember cork is for wine It’s documented within the forum.

[Tony]

Hi gang, I have replaced the crank case seal in the past to solve the problem but with no joy. It could be gone again but I suspect the crank seal. I did not realise that you had to change the flywheel after machining the crank.

It will have to wait for now and maybe have a go myself in the winter with a new rope seal. Either that or save up.

Hay ho the wind and the rain

Tony

[mgcjag]

Hi Tony..what do you mean "crank case seal" we have refered to rear sump seal...Re a new flywheel i think this is only required with the Rob Beere on piece seal..
Steve ps have a read here viewtopic.php?t=10948

[Iansparky]

Hi
Yes, the new flywheel is only required with the Rob Beere one piece seal, he also does this new stretch seal that does not need a new flywheel, however the crank will need machining to 3 inch diameter

[Tony]

Hi Steve, yes it was the rear sump oil seal I was referring to when I said I had changed it.

Has anybody had experience or history with the one piece stretch oil seal. Does Rob Breere machine the crankshafts or do I go elsewhere for that.

[abowie]

Hi Steve, yes it was the rear sump oil seal

The rear sump oil seal is a flat rubber or cork seal that is squeezed between the sump and the rear main bearing cap, preventing oil from leaking out of the back of the sump. It looks like a strip of liquorice.

This is quite different from the rear main bearing seal which prevents oil egress from around the rear of the crankshaft. These rope seals were originally asbestos and are now presumably something less carcinogenic.

If we are referring to the rear main bearing seal, the modern seal "upgrades" all involve irreversible modification to the rear of the crankshaft.

Satisfaction with these seals is variable; Jaguar forums are replete with both tales of happiness, and woe.

The problem with machining your crankshaft to accept one of the various modern seals is that it is irreversible. If it works, terrific. But if it doesn't, you need a new crankshaft.

On the other hand, if you install a rope seal and it leaks, you can still replace the seal, albeit with the irritation of removing the engine, but without buying a new crankshaft/engine.

I currently have 4 cars with 6 cylinder XK engines that I have built. All have the original rope seal rear main, and none of them leak.

You need to work out which of the two seals is your problem.

Then, if it is indeed the rear crank seal, I recommend you have a look at the satisfaction levels of those who have gone ahead with installation of the various modern seal options before you decide what you'll do.

[mtnjag]

Abowie has a good description of the issue.

I will add that if you don’t drive the car on a somewhat regular basis you stand a good chance of leaky seals, crank seal being no exception. Drive it and get it fully warmed up for some of that drive and get some upper rpm in it.

Also, again, replace the rear pan/sump seal before attacking the crank seal. That’s usually what that rear leak is.

[rfs1957]

You might find this throws some light into the corners of this topic.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16408&p=134682&hili ... al#p134682

[Tony]

Ok, that sounds good advice which I shall take. I will hopefully get a few quotes and then decide if I have a go myself. Any recommendation of firms north of Birmingham to do the job and know jag engines.

[Gfhug]

Tony, why not go straight to Rob Beere in Coventry? Surely worth the drive?

Geoff