Let's dwell on the dwell angle...

[No Quarter]

Sorry, that was just too tempting, beyond my self control...

My E-Type has (I thought) an original points distributor. First trip in it I had set dwell and timing very roughly, but it ran fine.

Today was MOT day. So yesterday I made sure (I thought) that it running was tip top. I set the points gap to .4mm and my multimeter (bought for this, as my other multimeters don't have dwell function anymore ) showed 32 degrees, agains the required 35, so I was OK. And then adjusted timing to 10 degrees. It ran beautfully

So MOT. The good part of the story is that I got to MOT, got it approved, so it's now officially an EU legal car, and I can pay the tax and get license plate on it.

But during the trip, its running and its ability to start went from perfect to good to bad. My first guess was carb dirt, but I started by checking plugs, and they indicated more an ignition problem than fuel. I took the dist cap off, and points definetly didn't have the same gap as yesterday.

Some thoughts:
1. have the metal 6 high points axle eaten the points gap by wearing out the "plastic"? I've seen that once 35 years ago...
2. if yes, will new points have the same faith? How to avoid? Sanding axle?
3. When I adjusted gap yesterday it looked like the same was as I have done always, but today reading the E-Type service manual they show 3 screws, I have 1, so do I have a non-E-Type distributor? If I do, does it matter as long as there is a good dwell angle and timing?
4. have all of you skipped points and gone to electronic? If so, I'm sure it fixes this issue, but is it just a bolt in, or do I have to change wiring etc? Any brand recommended?
5. distributor cap, after fiddling with it a couple of times, the brush and spring in the center fell out. What's supposed to keep it in?

This is a bit embarassing when you see which book I wrote, but hey I can still learn...

[mgcjag]

Your distributor should be a DMBZ 6A 40617A this should be stamped on the body...so first check what distributor you have....never heard of a cam wearing our the foot of the points befor...the cam should be smooth...rotor arm and distributor cap are best purchased from the "Distributor Doctor" to ensure you have quality parts....Steve

[No Quarter]

If going the electronic way, what's the experience with the products out there? The main vendors and the 123 costs about €350, and Motronic and Accuspark on ebay costs €100. Quite a difference, is that due to major quality difference or our vendors making a little too much money here? Your view?

[abowie]

Accuspark on ebay costs €100.

I bought an Accuspark distributor from SimonBBC about 10 years ago.

It was described as specific for the E type.

General build quality was pretty poor.

When I checked the maximum mechanical advance it topped out at 42 degrees. The car ran poorly and it failed (hall effect sensor melted) quickly. It went in the bin.

If I was going to go down the electronic route I would fit a Pertronix module into the stock distributor. I have fitted a Pertronix Ignitor system to my XJS and it is excellent.

[mgcjag]

Any type of electronic unit that you fit inside your original distributor relies on the fact that your dizzy is in good working order with the advance mechanism working correct.....if your going for a replacement dizzy then in my opinion the programable 123 is the best way to go...the pre programmed/switchable units will jot match the ignition curve of your car...so being able to program will give you the best option.....Steve

[Andyp_67E]

As mentioned above if you sre sticking with points then make sure rotor arm, points and condenser are replaced with items from the Distributor Doctor, Martin Jay, he can also help making sure your distributor is working correctly. Keep your old items in the boot just In case. Always can be sorted at the roadside to get you home, unlike if you have converted to Electronic ignition. I have done this and no complaints for last 10 years.