The 'E' Type Forum

I think I ended up understanding the rear oil seal on my first 63 E-Type project, I bought the alignment tool, and I must have done something right, because it doesn't leak.

Now on my second E-Type, a 64 with engine RA6618-9 seems to confuse me and my local parts guy.

-First, do we agree that my engine/crank/seal system is OEM, it's not a "Conversion"? Or?
-Second, looking at the part label, that mentions Conversion and does not mention 3.8/E-Type, did he just send me a wrong set? And if so what's the correct complete set part#?

Some also write about soaking in oil first, Haynes does not. Any views?

Thanks (again! )

The somewhat confusing term "conversion gasket set" refers to a complete gasket set for rebuilding the bottom end of a motor. So it doesn't refer to any conversion in your motor.

This is opposed to a "Valve Regrind Set" (aka VRS) which contains all the gaskets for the cylinder head.

The old seals were made of asbestos. The modern seals are not, and they are generic and too long, so you need to carefully cut them to size.

Personally I don't bother soaking the seals in oil, and so far my rebuilds have remained acceptably dry.

abowie, any advice on how many mm they should stick up, to ensure they not end up being too short?

Have a look at the video at post 6 here viewtopic.php?t=4539#p31386

Perfect answers, so that's now sorted.

As a side note, on my first E-Type I did rust and engine first, because I like doing them. All engine parts were sourced locally from a guy that got sick, and I had to switch to my current guy, so that's why I'm not sure what I got first time.

With the proper knowledge, some patience and the tool I bought, it's an easy job. My household holds 8 cars, none of them drip anything, I'm trying to keep it that way. Sorry to brag

How on earth do you prevent rust without a copiously leaking engine?

chrisfell wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 06, 2025 4:50 pm

How on earth do you prevent rust without a copiously leaking engine?

A challenge yes