Wire wheel differences

[Ulverston]

Hello all,

Does anybody know/have a guide to the differences in wire wheels over the years on S1 and S2 cars. I gather that there were a phase 1 and 2 on the S1 cars (correct?).

My car is 1965, but I gather it has later wires?

My hub is angled rather than curved, hence curly hub. Looks like I answered my own question, but still happy to have more info if there are greater differences and at what rough date the switch was.

Sorry if this question has already been asked before.

Oh yes, the tyres are original Dunlop Sport with full tread. I won't be using them because of the age, but if anybody wants them for concours events, send me a PM.

Best.

Ulverston

[PeterCrespin]

The smooth hubs are for 68 and later cars, with some argument over exactly which interim cars would have them. All Series 2 had smooth hubs. They are better because they are forged, not pressed AFAIK and of course they are easier to keep clean. Due to the nature of the chrome plating process they are also easier to plate properly. The curly hubs tend to rust in the groove around the hub where it is difficult to get correct plate thickness for the nickel or chrome. The smooth hubs have a more uniform plating.

I have curly hubs when I should have smooth. You have smooth when you should have plated. Are yours rusty or just grubby?

[Ulverston]

Hello Peter,

For what it is worth I know they have done less than 15k miles as the car is a one owner car with less miles than above on it (documented).

The car has sat in a barn for 20+ years with little use during this time so they are very dirty and there is some light suface rust only (I have never seen any that a perfect unless they are new wheels).

Were the early wheels painted rather than plated, and only the spokes were chrome? This could just be on early 3.8 though?

Best.

Ulverston
P.S. The photos were taken in the barn on finding the car (so no cleaning).

[Ulverston]

Hi all,

I don't know if this helps itentify the wheels I am considering?

DRC-5K x 15 U, Made In England

Where do you guys stand on having the spokes redone in high grade stainless steel (strength/no rust to worry about)?

Best.

Ulverston

[Heuer]

You could have the wheels painted silver (standard) or chromed (cost option). First thing to check are the spokes - tap each one lightly with a small spanner and they should ring like a bell. If there is a dull sound the spoke is loose and needs tightening. Odd loose spokes are not a problem but if you have a lot of them on a wheel it will need specialist attention - MWS charge ?100 a wheel. Light surface rust on painted wheels is not a problem so just get them blasted and repainted after checking carefully. Surface rust on chromed wires is bad news as the rust will return so replacements are probably in order.

For what its worth the consensus of opinion seems to be painted wheels on solid colours and chrome on opalescent colours look best.

[Ulverston]

Thanks David, that's good to know. Is there ay consensus on high grade stainless steel spokes instead of chrome/paint?

The FHC is opalescent and the OTS solid, so I guess I could always swap them over if I picked up an original set to paint or do in SS.

Best.

Ulverston

[Heuer]

There is a full (and forthright!) thread on various wire wheels here: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=196

Ditto the subject of wide wheels here:
http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=152

Ditto the subject of painted or chromed: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=1419

Stainless wheels are available but they have an odd tint to them which can clash with the rest of the chrome on the car. I personally cannot see any advantage to using stainless (e.g. you like the tint) unless you intend to leave the car unattended in a lock-up for another 30 years. I have Borrani wires on my car which are jewel like, very light but rather expensive.