Page 1 of 1
#1 Heater motor - Adapter plate?
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 7:28 am
by ChrisC
Hi,
I am putting the heater box back together and have managed to get the original motor running again which is nice but the bearings sound worn :( but when I tried to re-fit the unit onto the heater box - the mounting screws are nowhere close to the holes.
I am using the original heater box and the original heater motor so I cant work out why it doesnt fit. The parts manual refers to an adapter plate but I dont recall there being one. But looking at it there has to be... presumably this is nothing more than a disk with the holes in the right place.
Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone bought a repro motor that fitted? I am getting a bit bored buying parts that dont fit.
#2
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 8:34 am
by Heuer
I bought a repro motor from SNG and it came complete with the mounting bracket. It is a disc with four holes for the mounting grommets and sits over the motor:

#3
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:54 pm
by kingzetts
There is a flat plate to which the motor itself bolts, and which in turn bolts to the heater box. The black tubular resistor which gives the slow-running speed of the fan motor is riveted to the flat plate. Replacement motors would not in my view normally be expected to come with a new mounting plate and would need to re-use the old plate - not fair to blame the suppliers in this case at least.
Very easy to make a plate if you do not have one.
#4
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 5:02 pm
by Heuer
This is the one SNG supply - C17427:

#5
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 6:03 pm
by ChrisC
Mine appears to be a different shape but you can see that the holes in the heater motor simply dont line up. Its an easy fix - a notch at every hole would do it but it came apart so why doesnt it go back together? I just want to be sure it re-assembles before shotblasting and painting everything.
Thanks for the nudge on the resister.... i have no idea where that is :(

#6
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 6:06 pm
by 1954Etype
Chris, you've got a non standard motor and plate by the looks of it. Are you sure you haven't mixed up parts from a different car

#7
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 6:58 pm
by ChrisC
nope owned the car for 27 years :o) but it IS a mix of 4.2 and 3.8 bits..
#8
Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 8:27 am
by kingzetts
That's neither a 3.8 nor 4.2 motor/plate as they were the same.
My vote would be for an uprated fan anyway - the standard one even in good order is a feeble affair. Maybe that's what a previous owner has done - if you find that it demists the screen adequately it is probably not a standard unit!
#9
Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 8:48 am
by PeterCrespin
ChrisC wrote:Mine appears to be a different shape but you can see that the holes in the heater motor simply dont line up. Its an easy fix - a notch at every hole would do it but it came apart so why doesnt it go back together? I just want to be sure it re-assembles before shotblasting and painting everything.
If you are sure the parts were once together but no longer fit, then you have a memory or assembly problem.
Neither the motor nor the adapter plate are standard. Again, if it was all of a piece and functioned correctly before you took it to bits, then fine, go for it. But if you're not certain it ever fitted/worked correctly on a running car then I'd be worried your seemingly much deeper adapter plate might bring the motor too close to the battery below. With old-style rubber batteries especially, you do not want metal objects close to those heavy link bars connecting the cells.
Pete
#10
Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:26 pm
by ChrisC
:) because i have had the car for so long it would appear that people fixing it in its early life didnt use the standard parts.
So thanks gents - i will replace the heater motor as yes it was always close to the battery but then i didn't know any difference. Its weird that i cant work out how it came apart though. Wonder where the motor came from.
#11
Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 8:00 pm
by kingzetts
Hey Chris,
If you've had it 27 years, your car's "early life" as you put it lasted 19 years - and that's PLENTY of time for it to be bodged to within an inch of its life.