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#1 Series 1 4.2 Electrical Problems
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:07 am
by eTypeG
On my 1965 4.2 FHC I managed to blow fuse number 7 (flasher, heater, wiper, choke, & fuel water temp, oil pressure gauges), I have replaced the fuse but the oil pressure, water temp, and fuel gauges are no longer working
, any ideas anyone ?
#2
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:59 am
by christopher storey
First check that the gauges are indeed wired to fuse 7 . People regularly alter which fuses supply what, whether by accident or design is unclear. Next, look for a loose or detached wire on the gauges circuit, particularly near the voltage stabiliser : something must have caused the blow, and an earth wire contacting a live circuit is a possibility, as is the converse
#3
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 3:14 pm
by ChrisC
If there car was ever rewired it is very possible that the fuses are no longer correct. I know the first time i fitted the loom I merely connected all the purple and greenwires as a group with no consideration as to what they actually powered. Naturally I discovered the error of my ways and corrected this afterwards but it did mean that the fusing didnt match the labels for a while...
#4
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:49 pm
by eTypeG
christopher storey wrote:First check that the gauges are indeed wired to fuse 7 . People regularly alter which fuses supply what, whether by accident or design is unclear. Next, look for a loose or detached wire on the gauges circuit, particularly near the voltage stabiliser : something must have caused the blow, and an earth wire contacting a live circuit is a possibility, as is the converse
Many thanks for the reply, I am sure the gauges are linked to fuse 7 as they were working fine until that fuse went, the indicators, wash/wipe are also not working since the fuse went. I have checked for loose or detached wires (inc around the voltage stabiler) and all is fine.
#5
Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 6:56 am
by christopher storey
You need to check for a second blown fuse. Also, carefully clean the fuse holder with a stick wrapped in emery cloth - disconnect the battery first of course - the fuse holders always get a deposit on them over the years which leads to the situation where it will pass voltage, thus giving a positive result with a continuity tester, but will not pass any current more than a milliamp or so
#6
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 12:29 pm
by Heuer
And just to say - well done Christopher you have reached 1,000 posts on the Forum! Many thanks for your input and valued contributions.
Regards
David
#7
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 5:11 pm
by christopher storey
Well, David, it is kind of you to point that out. I have learned a great deal from this forum, and like to put something back when I can . At your own risk if you pay any attention to what I say...!!!
#8
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 11:17 am
by eTypeG
christopher storey wrote:You need to check for a second blown fuse. Also, carefully clean the fuse holder with a stick wrapped in emery cloth - disconnect the battery first of course - the fuse holders always get a deposit on them over the years which leads to the situation where it will pass voltage, thus giving a positive result with a continuity tester, but will not pass any current more than a milliamp or so
Many thanks for the reply (and congrats on the 1,000th post), I think I am going to replace the voltage stabiliser next and see if that helps. Everything that is not working seems to be linked to fuse 7 and the voltage stabiliser
Another separate query I have is regarding the alternator, I have two wires with spade connectors which I need to reattach to the alternator, one brown and purple and the other brown & green. There are two possible connectors, one above the other - which wire goes to which connector ?. Also what's the best way to check that the alternator is working ok ? - sorry for so many questions.