The 'E' Type Forum

Have I imagined it or was there a thread already about how to remove and replace the chrome on the side windows? I have searched but cannot find it and dont want to mess up the chome or break the glass. thanks

Yeap, I red something about the long upper chrome bar that cover both windows (rear and door windows).
Are you talking about that chrome bar?

hi , no I think you are talking about the rain gutter trim. I am talking about removing the chrome frame around the actual glass on the rear opening quarter lights. I seem to recall there was a post mentioning a technique to avoid damaging any part . thanks though

The quarter light is fastened by a vertical tongue which fits into a slot in the B post. To get the light off, undo the screws on the vertical face of the B post . To get the glass out , you need to undo the screws which fasten the various elevations of the chrome surround together , and then gently prise them off the glass. Sometimes I use a rubber hammer and a piece of wood to shock them off

And Chris C wrote up how to put them all back together again afterwards:

http://www.connor.org.uk/George/Blog/En ... ights.html

Removing the chrome frame from around the window glass is a little scary. Removing the frame from the car is simple enough and is mentioned above. Once the glass and frame is on the bench you will see the frame is in two parts a straight section and an a much longer curved section.

Start with the straight section. Remove the four screws that you can see and put them somewhere safe as they are small and easily lost. Next comes the first of the scary parts. You will probably have noticed that undoing the screws didn't do very much at all.... That is because the glass and rubber is a very tight fit and over the years the rubber will have adhered to the glass.

So.....

I was advised to use a hot air stripper to warm up the frame and glass to loosen the old rubbers grip on the glass. Although This was recommended to me it made me nervous. I was told - DON'T point the stripper directly at the glass (as you run the risk of shattering it) angle it at about 10 degrees and the hot air flow will flow over the glass and frame.

I did this for about 20 minutes but the glass was still a tight fit. I was warned about this and the next bit was the part that worried me as you have to lever the chrome off the rubber. I used a hard wood wedge that just fitted the gap and pushed it in as far as possible so that it could lever the largest part of the frame. You have to be carefully that you don't bend the chrome so be patient!

Once one side moves a little go to the other end and do the same. Then back to the first end etc. after a few times the chrome will now be moving off the rubber so keep going.

The curved section is just the same but you have to pull the chrome off the glass as you work your lever round. It is less likely to bend than you think but don't be brutal. Keep easing a wedge In between the frame and rubber and above all be patient as you don't want to damage the glass or frame.

I DID say this was scary didn't I?

There may well be another way of doing this but it's hard to find anyone that has done this job... If you find another way let people know :o

Scary indeed. I recall now I read you posts the original description. I have already removed the small countersunk screws and as you say I am aware of the tricky nature as nothing really happened once they were out. Not sure about this. Will need to steel myself for the task in hand. as always thanks for hte guidance

if you are going to try heat, I suggest that instead of a heat gun you put them in a cold oven, preferably of the fan type ( and preferably when the boss is out ) and heat it to say 50 to 75 C for 1 hour . This is far less likely to set up uneven stresses in the glass, and should be hot enough to soften any adhesive that may have been used . But as has been said, it is really a question of gentle pressure and/or gentle shocking . When I did mine, they came off quite easily once the first movement had been achieved . It also does no harm to infiltrate wd40 or the like into the joints from the open ends

understood thanks. I will have another look at the task tomorrow and see whether I can master it. As my Dad says to me, make haste slowly lad!

As your wife will be out I think you should also consider using a hair drier rather than a paint stripping gun!

Too much precious time involved in that procedure

I smashed the glass.......Sooooo much easier 8)

No you didnt.......did you?

Oh yes.....didn't want to risk bending my metal

In hindsight I could have smashed the glass as I was replacing it. But could not bear to break something original that I could keep / sell.

Oh....I hadn't thought of that Chris

I feel really bad now :?

I am just about to reassemble the rear quarter lights and have bought a rubber seal kit but it does not look like the rubber seal around the glass itself is included. I cannot see a part number for this part either. Can anyone tell me whether they can be supplied? Pretty important part!

have a word with Andy Rayner at Hutson's 01274 669052 - I am pretty sure I got mine from him

Its called glazing rubber and comes by the meter. Automotive glass suppliers / windscreen fitters can provide it.

Be advised though that it comes in a number of thicknesses 1mm 2mm etc. From memory I used 1mm and didnt need any sealant. It *might* have been 1.5mm...

thanks Guys. I had hoped it was a pretty standard thing. Now you have given me the pointer I will start googling. cheers Andrew

edit.......does it come as flat rubber or as a "U" section already formed? I have some of the original which I can measure for thickness.

Instant gasket saw mine finished to perfection