Series 1 Speedometer Conversion - MPH to KPH - Advice

[Ian Richardson]

Hi, I recently bought an original UK RHD Series 1 fhc in Germany and have brought it into Sweden. No problem with the car but I have to get it through the local road test which requires the speedometer to show kilometers rather than miles. I've bought a new dial and want to swap the existing one. I'm not fussed about calibrating the odometer since I may well bring it back to the UK at some future point (and swap the MPH dial back). I've got a couple of questions - hopefully somebody can help.

The first is that, despite checking with various manuals/books, I can't get a categorical answer on what's involved in swapping the dial. Is it as easy as removing the glass, easing off the pointer, and removing the two screws at the centre of the face? Or will the whole piece come apart in my hands if I do this?

The second is getting into the speedometer. Everything I've read suggests that this is a simple process but try as I might (without forcing the issue), I cant seem to rotate/remove the glass front to the speedo. It also seems reluctant to move in its facia housing. I don't want to damage the speedo or the facia - is there some obvious reason (other than long term sticking) that I cant get either to move? Shouldn't I just be able to remove the speedo by pushing it through from the rear of the facia?

Thanks in advance for your help! As you can probably tell, I'm a cautious novice and don't want to overstretch myself. Any advice gratefully received..

Ian[/b]

[PeterCrespin]

Yes it's as easy as you think to swap dials. However some instruments have the needle under tension against the stop so you have to pry the stop down (often spring-loaded wire through a hole that you will need to use with your new face)

Once free of the stop let the needle come to rest - sometimes by a white dot. Once it's under no tension you know that if you refit in that position it will have the right preload against the stop. Grab the rotating part of the mech carefully below the dial and twist to and fro as you pull it off.

The dash top and under dash panels need to come off for access to the instrument clamps held by knurled nuts (not to be confused with gnarled nuts, as in Angus after a long drive on Belgian cobbles). If someone has been there before and left one or both off, you might be able to do it all from just one side but if it's not moving then it sounds correctly installed.

Once removed, if the bezel doesn't rotate then carefully pry the tabs and try to break the stiction by gently working a small screwdriver around the back of the bezel against the casing.

Pete

[Ian Richardson]

Many thanks Pete, this is great feedback - I'll have a go at getting behind the instruments and see what awaits..

Either way, I appreciate you taking the time and I feel a lot more confident than I did.

Best,

Ian

[PeterCrespin]

You did some research, you had a go yourself, you worked out a plan but checked here before you did anything that could cause damage. You didn't just show up and want to be spoon-fed, which makes you a model forum candidate I'd say, whom it was a pleasure to advise :-)