Rear side window fit
#1 Rear side window fit
Guys,
I have just fitted both rear side windows on my 62 FHC and have a question over the line of the top chrome on the frame relative to the rain gutter channel.
I should have taken a photo to explain what I mean, but here goes anyway. The window frame seems to protrude too much outwards towards the line of the gutter about half way along the top edge. This is caused by the inner body frame being not that straight down both sides, this has the effect of pushing out the window rubber and sealing strip . This part of the car has not been touched in the rebuild and has not been the subject of any accident damage. Of course the window rubbers are quite tough which slightly exacerbates the problem, but really this is to do with the inner cantrail support panel being a little swayed outwards on both sides half way along that run. If I had of picked this up before it was painted I would have relieved the cantrail inwards a touch to straighten the line and allow the window to sit in under the rain gutter channel a bit more. I am sure this is as it was built, but if anyone has some photos of their own fully built up cars in this area I would be very grateful. I have checked the photos of the mint California car Harry had but its not too easy to check this detail. Hope that is not as clear as mud!
thanks as always. I will take a photo tomorrow and add it to the thread.
I have just fitted both rear side windows on my 62 FHC and have a question over the line of the top chrome on the frame relative to the rain gutter channel.
I should have taken a photo to explain what I mean, but here goes anyway. The window frame seems to protrude too much outwards towards the line of the gutter about half way along the top edge. This is caused by the inner body frame being not that straight down both sides, this has the effect of pushing out the window rubber and sealing strip . This part of the car has not been touched in the rebuild and has not been the subject of any accident damage. Of course the window rubbers are quite tough which slightly exacerbates the problem, but really this is to do with the inner cantrail support panel being a little swayed outwards on both sides half way along that run. If I had of picked this up before it was painted I would have relieved the cantrail inwards a touch to straighten the line and allow the window to sit in under the rain gutter channel a bit more. I am sure this is as it was built, but if anyone has some photos of their own fully built up cars in this area I would be very grateful. I have checked the photos of the mint California car Harry had but its not too easy to check this detail. Hope that is not as clear as mud!
thanks as always. I will take a photo tomorrow and add it to the thread.
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#2
I found this photo which just about shows the problem. Note how the rear window top chrome flares out slightly rather than remain the same distance under the gutter. Maybe this is how they are and is more obvious as I do not have the chrome gutter trim fixed yet


| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
PeterCrespin
- Posts: 4561
- Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:22 pm
- Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland.
- Contact:

#3
Normal, -ish.
The front top corner is deeper under the ledge, where it hinges on the B-pillar. It is flush with the door window at that point, which itself tucks under more the further forward you go until it is quite a way inside at the lower A pillar.
At the rear top edge coming down around the curve, the body/c-pillar flares outwards into the wing below, so there is more of an undercut there too.
That leaves the central upper area of the quarterlight frame as the least shrouded/tucked-under section and yes, it's less obvious with the gutter on and yes your fatter new seals probably exacerbate it. I definitely wouldn't have tried to 'persuade' any body metal to follow a different line - you'll be fine.
Pete
The front top corner is deeper under the ledge, where it hinges on the B-pillar. It is flush with the door window at that point, which itself tucks under more the further forward you go until it is quite a way inside at the lower A pillar.
At the rear top edge coming down around the curve, the body/c-pillar flares outwards into the wing below, so there is more of an undercut there too.
That leaves the central upper area of the quarterlight frame as the least shrouded/tucked-under section and yes, it's less obvious with the gutter on and yes your fatter new seals probably exacerbate it. I definitely wouldn't have tried to 'persuade' any body metal to follow a different line - you'll be fine.
Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#4
Not sure if you know but, for the sake of due diligence, the bracket holding the master cylinders should be painted grey green. The paint code is on the Forum but basically it is the same as the stone guard surround, header tank support straps and high pressure hose brackets. Sorry if I have gone off topic - could not help myself 
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#5
PeterCrespin wrote:Normal, -ish.
The front top corner is deeper under the ledge, where it hinges on the B-pillar. It is flush with the door window at that point, which itself tucks under more the further forward you go until it is quite a way inside at the lower A pillar.
At the rear top edge coming down around the curve, the body/c-pillar flares outwards into the wing below, so there is more of an undercut there too.
That leaves the central upper area of the quarterlight frame as the least shrouded/tucked-under section and yes, it's less obvious with the gutter on and yes your fatter new seals probably exacerbate it. I definitely wouldn't have tried to 'persuade' any body metal to follow a different line - you'll be fine.
Thank you Peter. I have been searching on photos all night and it would appear that it is correct. In fact it's a little more obvious on the near side but that may settle once the rubbers compress a bit
David. Reference the colour of the bracket you refer to. I assure my car had never been apart and it was silver. It's an October 62 car. Definitely no pale green here.
Pete

| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#6
Andrewh
Been through this recently on a couple of FHC's both of which are original Covenrty steel in this area. Judging from wher you are with your rebuild, it will be difficult to determine whether the window will finally sit correctly when the rebuild is finished. This is mainly due to the fact that the over-centre latch on the window will pull harder on the rear of the rear quarter window (and therefore pull the frame further into the aperture) since it sits on the inner trim panel (worth around 4mm of inset) and there is a wedge shaped packer on which the latch sits which has the effect of adding a further 4mm of inset to the latch hinge point.
This is long way of saying the over-centre latch will pull the frame into place since there is not a great deal you can do to adjust things in this area.
Note that I found the window needs 'helping' to close (using your hand) when you first apply the latch due to the newness of the rubber seals.
Chris
Been through this recently on a couple of FHC's both of which are original Covenrty steel in this area. Judging from wher you are with your rebuild, it will be difficult to determine whether the window will finally sit correctly when the rebuild is finished. This is mainly due to the fact that the over-centre latch on the window will pull harder on the rear of the rear quarter window (and therefore pull the frame further into the aperture) since it sits on the inner trim panel (worth around 4mm of inset) and there is a wedge shaped packer on which the latch sits which has the effect of adding a further 4mm of inset to the latch hinge point.
This is long way of saying the over-centre latch will pull the frame into place since there is not a great deal you can do to adjust things in this area.
Note that I found the window needs 'helping' to close (using your hand) when you first apply the latch due to the newness of the rubber seals.
Chris
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#7
Thank you for the input Chris. I wondered whether it would ill in more once the latch is mounted on the trim plus a packer which was not on my car but some cars, perhaps later had. To be sure are you saying you think it will pull in further when all trim in place?
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#8
From your pictures it looks like it was the correct grey originally. The colour is grey with a hint of green but I have to confess I can't see the green myself.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#9
These are from the late '63 car in our Factory Fit thread:




David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#10
Andrewh
Yes, I am saying Ithink the window will pull in once the latch is sitting on the trim panel. The packer will possibly help. This based on the assumption you are simply reassembling original parts which have come off the body.
Chris
Yes, I am saying Ithink the window will pull in once the latch is sitting on the trim panel. The packer will possibly help. This based on the assumption you are simply reassembling original parts which have come off the body.
Chris
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#11
Ok. That's encouraging. I think the windows went in much as they came out barring the new rubbers so hopefully they will settle. Thanks a lot.
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |




