The 'E' Type Forum

I'm having trouble with fitting the nylon fuel pipe fully over the end fitting I have tried heating it with boiling water and a heat gun but only gets it started I cannot get it fully fitted only about half way , I did not want o fit a jubilee clip but may have to if anyone know's of a way which doesn't include mega expensive tools I would be grateful. :D

Michael.
I had a similar problem a few years ago and solved it by heating a small quantity of engine oil on a camping stove and immersing the end of the hose and it softened so the fitting went in easily. i think you need a much higher temperature than boiling water and oil will give you that.

Steve.

When I bought mine I was expressly warned NOT to use heat ( because it causes embrittlement ) but to put the fitting in a vice and use wd40 to lubricate it whilst the pipe was pushed . It required some effort but worked perfectly well

I too used WD40 but it does still take some effort although as Chris says putting the union in a vice helps a lot.

An approach which worked for me was to hold the union in a vice and warm the barbed inlet tube with a blow torch until around 100degC. Progressively apply heat to the union until warm enough to allow the nylon pipe to pushed fully home. The metal union will hold the heat better than trying to warm the nylon pipe, thus making fitting of the nylon pipe much easier. Once the nylon pipe is in place, cool the union is cold water.
I used this technique on my first E Type some 28 years ago and I have have had no problems.
Regards
Chris

That's the way to do it. Warmed nylon loses heat fast to a cool metal fitting but a hot fitting holds enough to fit a warm pipe.

Hi All

Many thanks for the advice I did eventually get it fully home I used brute force in the end but need to do the other end before it goes on the car so I can clamp it in the vice I will combine heat on the fitting with wd40 , then the rebuilt IRS can go back , again many thanks. :D

Now I'm intrigued, why would a nylon fuel pipe stop the fitting of the IRS?

Angus,

I don't think you can tighten the fitting bulkhead fitting with the IRS in place. It's too high up to get too.

Dave

Yes but that is a metal pipe Dave.

The unions either side of the "through bulkhead" fixture are nylon, and the one in the wheelwell area cannot be reached with the IRS in place

Chris, the unions in the boot are indeed nylon but the connector obscured by the IRS is a metal pipe with a brass end. (well on all the S1 and S2 cars I've seen it is!)

Metal on my car as well, and soldered to the fitting. As I found out after buying a die that size for the pipe flring kit. :?

Warren

Just fitted the other end I heated the banjo fitting and also the pipe , it went on ok with a bit of a push , but you have got to be very careful how hot the fitting is as it will make the end brittle and melt if too hot , I succeeded on my second attempt , as for fitting the IRS I don't doubt I could of fitted it before but this way I'm not struggling to feed the pipe in and most of all getting better access to the nut, happy restoration to you all and may your bills be small ones!!!!!!!

Michael

As has been said, if you are using nylon fuel pipe under the IRS, this is the wrong type.

Hi Angus

My car is an early 3.8 it had a nylon on it when I got it and also have been advised by an e-type expert this is correct.

cheers

Mike

Yes, and so was mine ( nylon ) on both my 4.2s .

ok, I give up.

Metal fitting with pre-formed integral soldered pipe curving over the IRS and swapping to the outboard side of the chassis rail IiRC. Very dirty under there for a banjo and you'd want a fixed immovable pipe over the IRS. It is clearly illustrated as a part in my J38 spares book. Don't have my SWB lists handy.

Pete

When I stripped it my 1964 roadster had nylon pipe fitted, with a spigoted fitting under the IRS. I've decided to replace the section under the floor with steel the same as my 1967 coupe. Seems a more robust option.