Hi Everyone
At long last I've completed what must be the longest interior re-furb in E-Type history. (Dave if you read this -I'll send you the promised photos soon and thanks for all your help)
I have now turned my attention to the hood and frame.
I would really appreciate any members photos showing the S1 3.8 hood frame detail and the front edge of the hood.
The reason I'm asking is that my hood does not have the chrome strip along the leading edge where it meets the windscreen. I also seem to have three cantrail seals on each side. Two along the top of the door window and one directly above the 'B' post. SNG Barratt show only two cantrail seals along the top of the door window for the S1/2 hood. It might just be a typo on the blow-up diagram or me being thick.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Alan
S1 HOOD & FRAME
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ALAN COCHRANE
Topic author - Posts: 712
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- Location: Fife

#2
Have you looked at our 'Factory Fit' sticky? http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2006
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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PeterCrespin
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#3
Just glue the uncut length of cant rail seal around the hood edge and then use a razor blade wherever there's a break. The front chrome trim clips over the edge mostly, so you can do everything else and come to that later. Make sure you adjust the frame front, sides, and door windows to be a good fit *before* you upholster anything on the top.
Pete
Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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ALAN COCHRANE
Topic author - Posts: 712
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 9:37 am
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#4
David
Thanks for the sticky link. The frame and hood detail are really helpful.
My hood does not have the frame coverings across the roof. The cantrail seals seem to be the same. Pete's idea of fitting a complete length and cutting where there is a join would certainly achieve the smallest gaps between sections.
I now need to track down the correct cantrail seals. SNG only list two for each side when there are clearly four. Do you know where I can get a 1 metre length of the correct seal?
My better half and I went on a "shake down" cruise today and the new interior stayed together with nothing falling off. Unfortunately on the return journey the brake warning light came on. I put this down to the handbrake-why do we always ignore the blindingly obvious and go for the easy option. I checked under the bonnet when I got home and surprise, surprise, the rear brake reservoir had emptied it's contents into the passenger side under-tray. It looks like the hose between the reservoir and the brake servo has given up the ghost.
I was planning to repaint this under-tray anyway since it paintwork seems to have suffered brake fluid damage sometime in the past.
The joys of classic motoring.
Cheers
Alan
Thanks for the sticky link. The frame and hood detail are really helpful.
My hood does not have the frame coverings across the roof. The cantrail seals seem to be the same. Pete's idea of fitting a complete length and cutting where there is a join would certainly achieve the smallest gaps between sections.
I now need to track down the correct cantrail seals. SNG only list two for each side when there are clearly four. Do you know where I can get a 1 metre length of the correct seal?
My better half and I went on a "shake down" cruise today and the new interior stayed together with nothing falling off. Unfortunately on the return journey the brake warning light came on. I put this down to the handbrake-why do we always ignore the blindingly obvious and go for the easy option. I checked under the bonnet when I got home and surprise, surprise, the rear brake reservoir had emptied it's contents into the passenger side under-tray. It looks like the hose between the reservoir and the brake servo has given up the ghost.
I was planning to repaint this under-tray anyway since it paintwork seems to have suffered brake fluid damage sometime in the past.
The joys of classic motoring.
Cheers
Alan
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#5
Alan
I recommend this hose after much trial and error: http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... brake+hose
Try speaking to Andy Rayner at Hutsons for the parts.
I recommend this hose after much trial and error: http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... brake+hose
Try speaking to Andy Rayner at Hutsons for the parts.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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PeterCrespin
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#6
Err, if you are going to count each piece individually there are eight IIRC. SNG will have to tell you what they sell but almost certainly the seal comes in two long lengths, which you stick to the frame and slice with a razor blade.....ALAN COCHRANE wrote:I now need to track down the correct cantrail seals. SNG only list two for each side when there are clearly four.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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ALAN COCHRANE
Topic author - Posts: 712
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#7
David
Hutson's to the rescue again! I've ordered 1 metre of the hose you recommended.
On further investigation I discovered that the source of the leak was the reservoir bottle itself. There was a crack at the neck of the pipe nipple. I should have realised that a leak that big was unlikely to be the hose unless there was a visible hole in it.
The bottle does not have the steel re-inforcement mentioned in the Forum thread. I ordered another bottle from Hutson's as well.
I made good use of the Summer weather and managed to strip the under-tray back to bare metal and apply an undercoat and two top coats of gloss black ready for re-fitting.
Anyway thanks again for the advice. What did we do before the existence of Forum's like this?
Cheers
Alan
Hutson's to the rescue again! I've ordered 1 metre of the hose you recommended.
On further investigation I discovered that the source of the leak was the reservoir bottle itself. There was a crack at the neck of the pipe nipple. I should have realised that a leak that big was unlikely to be the hose unless there was a visible hole in it.
The bottle does not have the steel re-inforcement mentioned in the Forum thread. I ordered another bottle from Hutson's as well.
I made good use of the Summer weather and managed to strip the under-tray back to bare metal and apply an undercoat and two top coats of gloss black ready for re-fitting.
Anyway thanks again for the advice. What did we do before the existence of Forum's like this?
Cheers
Alan
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PeterCrespin
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#8
Undercoat and two coats of gloss black!!! Arthur Whittaker must be spinning in his grave. They got one coat of runny black in the factory... :-)
Pete
Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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