A very tricky repair

PaulColeman · Post by **PaulColeman** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 1:07 pm

I have a 1965 FHC which has been bodged by the previous owner and I have to tackle a very tricky repair in the near future. The 'B' pillars are the supports for the rear side windows and are basically a bit of chromed channel with a right angled bracket on either end with a pair of fixing holes. There are bolts which go through those holes and fix into captive nuts inside the body. The previous owner has drilled a huge hole in mine (i.e. the captive nut) so there is no thread to screw the bolts into. Has anybody managed to repair these?

I could do what he did and put a nut on the back of the bolts but it's a difficult job to get at it.

Also, one of the uprights has a split by the fixing hole. Any idea how to repair that as it's very thin at that point.

Paul.

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 10:29 pm

I can't quite picture where the particular captive nut is, but can you Helicoil the hole drilled in it?

PaulColeman · Post by **PaulColeman** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:21 am

Here is a picture of the ones I'm talking about...

I'd really like to get that captive plate out and replace it (need to do the same on both sides).

Paul.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:35 pm

Paul - it is not an ideal solution, but you could araldite two appropriate size and thread nuts to the underside of the captive plate to restore it to its original function

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:23 pm

If you're at that stage in the body shell restoration just bite the bullet and cut the plate out, replace it and reweld the panel.

PaulColeman · Post by **PaulColeman** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:28 pm

That's the problem, I'm not sure how to get it out. I could cut a rectangle out above it but that looks quite tricky.

Paul.

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:58 pm

Paul,

Do it once and do it right it's the only way. A couple of cuts with a 4" angle grinder fitted with a 1mm thick cutting disc should keep it neat. If you have a compressor, a die grinder with a 40mm x 1mm disc would be ideal.

The other option would be to use a Dremel and about 40 cutting discs.
I have no idea what is in that section, I've never looked closely at a FHC so the above might be complete b******.

Dave

Post by **Heuer** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:09 pm

Paul

You are the custodian of this E-Type so do the job properly even if it involves cutting/extra expense. If you don't it will gnaw away at you every time you look at it!

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:44 pm

Agree. Cut it out and re weld a new captive plate in. Simples.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:46 pm

The plate MUST NOT be welded in . It has to be capable of movement or you will end up in every kind of difficulty

neil4444 · Post by **neil4444** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:59 pm

Rivnuts ?

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 11:49 pm

christopher storey wrote:The plate MUST NOT be welded in . It has to be capable of movement or you will end up in every kind of difficulty

Christopher, I think Andrew means weld a new cage in and use a pattern plate which is left to float around inside the cage as original.

Dave

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:41 pm

christopher storey wrote:The plate MUST NOT be welded in . It has to be capable of movement or you will end up in every kind of difficulty

er yes! I thought that would be obvious. What I meant was to cut the top off the shoulder, and replace the captive plate, which as you say MUST be able to float. it will no doubt be retained in a cage of sorts which may have to be cut and rewelded in.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:30 pm

Yes, it is in a horizontal cage rather similar to the vertical one for the door striker plates . It really is not worth going to the very extensive trouble involved in what is rather a dimensionally critical area if disturbed , when nuts can be glued in ( or indeed it might be possible to use rivnuts )

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:35 pm

I have just been to check my car and it is a really easy job to get a nut on these bolts working through the cubby hole on the inside of the rear panel behind the seats. It may even be possible to remove the captive plate through here if you are a contortionist. Of course the problem comes if you have to take off the window pillar and drop the nuts down inside where no doubt they would rattle !

PaulColeman · Post by **PaulColeman** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:18 pm

I like the rivnut idea that sounds worth pursuing. Anybody know what the thread size should be in that plate?

Cheers, Paul.

paulsco · Post by **paulsco** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:38 pm

This is what the plate looks like from below:

http://s1287.photobucket.com/user/pauls ... sort=1&o=0

I would think it was not too difficult to drill out the spot welds from above, repair and plug weld back in.

Paul

PaulColeman · Post by **PaulColeman** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:59 pm

Hmmm... yes maybe, I'll remove the paint and see if I can see them...

Cheers, Paul.

Cgarside · Post by **Cgarside** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:08 pm

The captive plate must be allowed to float to avoid B Pillar alignment problems. When I first read your post, I thought about going in from the top but there are two thicknesses of material to cut through before you could get the captive plate out. This will be difficult. The cage holding the captive plate in place is spot welded along three sides (both ends and along a side). Looking at my shell, I would go in from the underside and using a Dremel, slit one end of the cage, pry open and slide out the captive plate. You can then make a new captive place and slide in place followed by closing up the cage. I wouldn't worry about welding the cage closed since the there will not be much force applied when installing the screws at the base of the B pillar.
Chris

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:35 pm

The screws, which are a chromed countersunk variety, are BD 22728/4 at both top and bottom. This does not tell us what thread they are, but as per usual, if you get in touch with Andy Rayner at Hutsons, I am sure he will be able to supply you with 8 of them - there are 2 top and 2 bottom on each side - and tell you what thread they are. I have a feeling they are 1/4 UNF but they could in fact be a BA thread, although I think this is less likely

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