2 post lift - where to place lifting arms?
#1 2 post lift - where to place lifting arms?
I have just finished building a garage that can accomodate a 2 post lift. I've installed a lift satisfactorily but am unsure as to exactly where the best points are to place the 4 arms of the lift under my S1 FHC.
Any suggestions gratefully received!
GF
Any suggestions gratefully received!
GF
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richard btype
- Posts: 593
- Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:43 pm
- Location: Hertfordshire

#2
GF
I place two pads at the base of the lower rear wishbones at the front
and at the rear I have a 4' length of 3" x 4" section of timber which sits across the rear of the chassis rails and pack (not to take stress) back up to the floor pan to fill the gap to the floor - approx 40mm.
I place two pads at the base of the lower rear wishbones at the front
and at the rear I have a 4' length of 3" x 4" section of timber which sits across the rear of the chassis rails and pack (not to take stress) back up to the floor pan to fill the gap to the floor - approx 40mm.
3.8 FHC Chassis no: 860403
DOM - 11th April 1962
Also
4.2 FHC Chassis no: 1E32173
DOM - 12th December 1965
DOM - 11th April 1962
Also
4.2 FHC Chassis no: 1E32173
DOM - 12th December 1965
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#3 Tks
Thank you Richard. I'm probably being a bit slow on the uptake but how does the 4' length of wood used at the rear clear the exhaust pipes/silencers?
Gareth
Gareth
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#4 front ends of trailing arms
Why not put thick pads on the lift?s round ends and place them under the front ends of the trailing arms? That is what I was taught a long time ago, and it seems to work well.
My problem on one lift is that the arms are not long enough to reach the inner, rear ends of the lower wishbones.... My nearby garage friend has a much more professional 2-post lift, and those arms extend much further.
My problem on one lift is that the arms are not long enough to reach the inner, rear ends of the lower wishbones.... My nearby garage friend has a much more professional 2-post lift, and those arms extend much further.
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#5
I use the front and rear of the chassis rails.
You can also use the front trailing arm bushes, and put a 6x4 block of wood right up at the front outside corner of the footwell.
Be aware that if you have the engine out and the IRS in, with the bonnet off the car can tip backwards.
You can also use the front trailing arm bushes, and put a 6x4 block of wood right up at the front outside corner of the footwell.
Be aware that if you have the engine out and the IRS in, with the bonnet off the car can tip backwards.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia
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#6
I used a 2 post lift on an E type for the first time last week. I wouldnt recommend one. As has previously been said, radius arm mounts and front suspension.
Angus 67 FHC 1E33656
61 OTS 875047
61 OTS 875047
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#7
Having seen my E on a 2 post lift at a professional specialist's workshop some time back my slightly hazy(!) memory of the positioning of the arms was at the back the front of trailing arms and at the front the rear of the wishbone. However I wasn't 100% sure hence my enquiry so thank you for the further advice - very much appreciated.
I di canvass as many people as possible including re choosing between 2 and 4 post and the almost universal opinion appears to be that if you only have spce for 1 it has to be the 2 post. The pros seemd perticularly keen on the 2 post and said the tend to use a 4 post if they have one only for setup work with the car on it's wheels. Even with a jacking beam wheels off work on the 4 post seems more difficult with regard to access.
I know from previous forum posts that there are those with strong feelings favouring a 4 post and Angus's comment suggests that he is one of them - what is your reasoning on this? I know that there are concerns about the IRS 'hanging' on it's rubbers when on a 2 post but I'm told that the use of transmission jack to support the unit deals with the issue.
I di canvass as many people as possible including re choosing between 2 and 4 post and the almost universal opinion appears to be that if you only have spce for 1 it has to be the 2 post. The pros seemd perticularly keen on the 2 post and said the tend to use a 4 post if they have one only for setup work with the car on it's wheels. Even with a jacking beam wheels off work on the 4 post seems more difficult with regard to access.
I know from previous forum posts that there are those with strong feelings favouring a 4 post and Angus's comment suggests that he is one of them - what is your reasoning on this? I know that there are concerns about the IRS 'hanging' on it's rubbers when on a 2 post but I'm told that the use of transmission jack to support the unit deals with the issue.
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#8
Excuse the rubbish typing on my last post - bad form - done a phone!
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#9
The concerns on the 2 posts seem to be basically the "hanging IRS" issue and the potential for instability if major components are removed from the front end or rear end.
As said in another thread on the subject recently provided one is aware of these issues and deals with them appropriately (eg transmission support as you mention) then the choice of 2 or 4 is down to personal preference and circumstance. My only practical option was 2 post and I'm very happy with it.
As said in another thread on the subject recently provided one is aware of these issues and deals with them appropriately (eg transmission support as you mention) then the choice of 2 or 4 is down to personal preference and circumstance. My only practical option was 2 post and I'm very happy with it.
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
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#10
Found some photos here
http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=20438
I hate to lift anything classic on a two post but if I have to I use plywood squares or "cut to fit" plywood, with old rubber floor mats or better hard rubber pieces to the chassi and spread the load as much as possible.
Please assure the locks on the lift arms engage.
If you want to support the IRS get a cheap transmission jack (cylinder) and raise it as soon as you have lifted the car. Do not pump it too much, you would destabilize the lifted chassi. Better get two and support the front as well.
The 4 post lift is a little less flexible (unless you have a rolling bridge jack) but I love mine even if I only have a sliding jack platform combined with two small hydraulic bottle jacks. Works fine for a hobby mechanic.
The lift was a great "investment" as well as extra storage space, this is the one I have, running through a step-down transformer as it is US model.
http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products ... -7000X.asp
http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=20438
I hate to lift anything classic on a two post but if I have to I use plywood squares or "cut to fit" plywood, with old rubber floor mats or better hard rubber pieces to the chassi and spread the load as much as possible.
Please assure the locks on the lift arms engage.
If you want to support the IRS get a cheap transmission jack (cylinder) and raise it as soon as you have lifted the car. Do not pump it too much, you would destabilize the lifted chassi. Better get two and support the front as well.
The 4 post lift is a little less flexible (unless you have a rolling bridge jack) but I love mine even if I only have a sliding jack platform combined with two small hydraulic bottle jacks. Works fine for a hobby mechanic.
The lift was a great "investment" as well as extra storage space, this is the one I have, running through a step-down transformer as it is US model.
http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products ... -7000X.asp
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richard btype
- Posts: 593
- Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:43 pm
- Location: Hertfordshire

#11 Re: Tks
It was when I removed the IRS last summer and also had the exhaust box removed (so no pipes in place) hence why I did not lift on the radius arm mounts. For general access work i would use the radius arm mounts but as others have mentioned to be aware of possible weight imbalance - it took me a while to feel confident. My choice would be a 4 post for this era of car and is my intention to purchase one, I retained an advert for such a device from "garageequipment" no affiliation for 1499/single phase.thegfb wrote:Thank you Richard. I'm probably being a bit slow on the uptake but how does the 4' length of wood used at the rear clear the exhaust pipes/silencers?
Gareth
3.8 FHC Chassis no: 860403
DOM - 11th April 1962
Also
4.2 FHC Chassis no: 1E32173
DOM - 12th December 1965
DOM - 11th April 1962
Also
4.2 FHC Chassis no: 1E32173
DOM - 12th December 1965
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