Hi Everyone
At a recent car event I parked the car beside a C reg 4.2 OTS and noticed that it was sitting about one inch higher at the rear. I'd experienced ground clearance problems on previous drives which I think was caused by the strap which braces the two rear exhaust pipes together.
When I got home, with the car unladen, I measured the ground clearance along the driver's side sill and it was an even 21cm front to back.
There's 3/4inch of tyre showing between the apex of the rear wheel arch and the wheel. My wheels are standard sized 15inch diameter wires running on Vredstein Sprint Classic 185HR15 91H tyres.
Is this the normal ride height or is it too low?
Cheers
Alan
Rear ride height
-
ALAN COCHRANE
Topic author - Posts: 712
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 9:37 am
- Location: Fife

#1 Rear ride height
Alan Cochrane
1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder
1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
Moeregaard
- Posts: 763
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:23 pm
- Location: Thousand Oaks, California

#2
The 4.2-liter cars had packing pieces added to the rear springs, to address complaints about damaged exhaust-system components when driving over poor roads. I removed the packing from my early 4.2-liter FHC when I installed slightly stiffer springs, and the only time this was a problem was when I had a full load of people and stuff while driving over poor roads, and sleeping policemen (speed bumps) became more of a concern. From what you've just described, your ride height seems OK.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
PeterCrespin
- Posts: 4561
- Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:22 pm
- Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland.
- Contact:

#3 Re: Rear ride height
If you want an accurate ride height answer take accurate measurements as per the manual (which doesn't use the body as a datum).ALAN COCHRANE wrote: When I got home, with the car unladen, I measured the ground clearance along the driver's side sill and it was an even 21cm front to back.
There's 3/4inch of tyre showing between the apex of the rear wheel arch and the wheel. My wheels are standard sized 15inch diameter wires running on Vredstein Sprint Classic 185HR15 91H tyres.
Is this the normal ride height or is it too low?
If you just want a qualitative 'looks OK/looks wrong' estimate then carry on. The bodies on E-types weren't millimetre-precise when they left Briwns Lane and they're certainly not perfectly consistent fifty years later after so many have been repaired.
Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
ALAN COCHRANE
Topic author - Posts: 712
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 9:37 am
- Location: Fife

#4
Mark
I'm of the same opinion. The car sits level side to side and front to back and looks right. Although i've had the occassional disagreement with somnambulent bobbies the car has never hit it's bump stops.
I realise any adjustment of the rear ride height would necessitate a corresponding adjustment of the front to avoid a nose down attitude. I don't want to start mucking about with the torsion bars and end up with a complete balls-up.
Pete
Which manual are you referring to. I've looked through my Jaguar Sevice Manual and can't find any mention of ride height measurement, although knowing my search skills that probably means there's a whole section devoted to it.
Alan
I'm of the same opinion. The car sits level side to side and front to back and looks right. Although i've had the occassional disagreement with somnambulent bobbies the car has never hit it's bump stops.
I realise any adjustment of the rear ride height would necessitate a corresponding adjustment of the front to avoid a nose down attitude. I don't want to start mucking about with the torsion bars and end up with a complete balls-up.
Pete
Which manual are you referring to. I've looked through my Jaguar Sevice Manual and can't find any mention of ride height measurement, although knowing my search skills that probably means there's a whole section devoted to it.
Alan
Alan Cochrane
1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder
1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
Moeregaard
- Posts: 763
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:23 pm
- Location: Thousand Oaks, California

#5
Alan, just to give you a little more information to work with, and at the risk of being a little redundant, here's what I did with my early 4.2 FHC:
1. Front ride height set to Jaguar factory specs, using the procedure detailed for the 4.2-liter cars. This is shown in the Haynes and Robert Bentley manuals, as well as the factory manual. I've heard that lowering the front end will improve cornering, but I think the drawbacks outweigh any advantages for a road car, and getting into my drive would have been an even bigger problem.
2. Rear springs were those sold by XKs Unlimited in the early '90s, and they were slightly stiffer than the factory items. As I mentioned earlier, I omitted the spring spacers. One problem that afflicts LHD E-types is that the battery, driver and fuel tank are all on the left side, which over time leads to a "port list," so new springs are not an uncommon requirement.
3. Wheels were stock, with 185-15 Avons fitted.
Set up this way, the car sat level, as measured with a spirit level laid on the sill. I was happy with the handling, ride and clearance over road irregularities and random dead things (road lobsters), so I never felt any need to go further. I hope is of some use to you.
1. Front ride height set to Jaguar factory specs, using the procedure detailed for the 4.2-liter cars. This is shown in the Haynes and Robert Bentley manuals, as well as the factory manual. I've heard that lowering the front end will improve cornering, but I think the drawbacks outweigh any advantages for a road car, and getting into my drive would have been an even bigger problem.
2. Rear springs were those sold by XKs Unlimited in the early '90s, and they were slightly stiffer than the factory items. As I mentioned earlier, I omitted the spring spacers. One problem that afflicts LHD E-types is that the battery, driver and fuel tank are all on the left side, which over time leads to a "port list," so new springs are not an uncommon requirement.
3. Wheels were stock, with 185-15 Avons fitted.
Set up this way, the car sat level, as measured with a spirit level laid on the sill. I was happy with the handling, ride and clearance over road irregularities and random dead things (road lobsters), so I never felt any need to go further. I hope is of some use to you.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#6
Alan,ALAN COCHRANE wrote:Mark
I'm of the same opinion. The car sits level side to side and front to back and looks right. Although i've had the occassional disagreement with somnambulent bobbies the car has never hit it's bump stops.
I realise any adjustment of the rear ride height would necessitate a corresponding adjustment of the front to avoid a nose down attitude. I don't want to start mucking about with the torsion bars and end up with a complete balls-up.
Pete
Which manual are you referring to. I've looked through my Jaguar Sevice Manual and can't find any mention of ride height measurement, although knowing my search skills that probably means there's a whole section devoted to it.
Alan
It tells you how to measure the ride for the 3.8 and 4.2 in the Haynes manual.
Dave
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
ALAN COCHRANE
Topic author - Posts: 712
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 9:37 am
- Location: Fife

#7
Thanks Mark & Dave for the advice. It's much more helpful getting a detailed answer than just getting a bald statement of fact!
I'm going to take the springs off during the winter and give them a blast and paint so I'll be able to check them at that point.
The car is sitting level and I think I"ll let sleeping dogs lie.
I've just spent three hours trying to get an SNG under tray to fit. Why do these b###dy things never fit without major surgery!
Interesting point about the weight distribution on LHD cars.
On RHD cars it's more balanced- fuel tank and battery on one side and driver and spare wheel on the other.
Alan
I'm going to take the springs off during the winter and give them a blast and paint so I'll be able to check them at that point.
The car is sitting level and I think I"ll let sleeping dogs lie.
I've just spent three hours trying to get an SNG under tray to fit. Why do these b###dy things never fit without major surgery!
Interesting point about the weight distribution on LHD cars.
On RHD cars it's more balanced- fuel tank and battery on one side and driver and spare wheel on the other.
Alan
Alan Cochrane
1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder
1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |


