The 'E' Type Forum

Hello,

after complete restoration, I want to mount a used hood (but in good condition) on my E-type of 1966 and I asked about the rear assembly.
It seemed that the hood was only nailed on wooden stick. I have mounted a new wood strip into the slot (groove stamped into the sheet metal), but it lacks 12cm wood finish nail the hood. I think there are 2 solutions : fabricating a relatively thin piece of wood 12 cm (at this point because there is more groove, is sheet metal plate) or the hood is screwed directly on the 12 cm on sheet metal. Here is the picture of the problem. Thank you in advance for your answers.

Best Regards

Jacques

hello,

I did not find much information about it, only this picture. This suggests that the two ends secured the hood is screwed directly onto the sheet metal. Can someone please confirm me? thank you

Best Regards

Jacques

Hi Jacques,

You don't need any more wood, the rest of the job is finished by the chrome trim which fastens through the hood into the the metal as per picture below.



HTH

My hood-cover goes AWOL over 90 mph. The Lift The Dot fasteners on the straps that fasten to the bulkhead need shortening to get some tension in the fore and aft plane, but apart from the 'hooks' or crabs that hold the L and R sides onto the tub edges at the front, there are no LTD buttons on the cover to correspond with the 2 LTD fittings on the tub below the crabs.
Does anyone have a picture of what the correct hood-cover fasteners should look like and where they should be please ?
And where the rear edge of the hood-cover should lie ? And how many hooks there should be whilst you are at it ?! Mine feels like it needs a centre clip and hook at the back but I dont recall seeing other cars with one.

Hi Rory

I had a similar problem with the hood bag I bought from Aldridge Trimming. The bag had two hooks either side and none along the back. In addition it only had two tie down straps instead of three. The result was ballooning at 70 mph.
I purchased three extra hooks from Aldridge along with the attaching studs. SWMBO made up "pockets" on the inside of the hood with the material sent with the hooks. Now this is where my memory gets a little hazy- I remember there being a problem with the studs not being an exact match with the existing ones. I ended up buying a kit off Ebay for ?10 which included the correct tools to attach them. Don't try and just thump them in using a hammer and punch-ask me how I know. As you know I do believe in having the correct tools for the job!
Just search under "Fastener" and it should come up with the right items. I think you need the 12mm studs.
You will find you can tension the cabin straps at the same time, without having to move them.
Result no more ballooning at speed, well anything under 150mph at least! The only thing you may find is that the original hooks may now be a little slack, but it's the additional hooks that do all the work so it's not really a problem. You can go the whole hog and change all the hooks so they're an exact match.

I can' t post a link to Ebay at the moment. I'm using my I phone on a Jamaican beach-sorry I just had to get that in.

Cheers

Alan

Thanks for the low-down Alan.
How many hooks is standard ? Mine has two on each shoulder and none in the middle.
No rush, finish your time on the beach in Jamaica - but as we have not had a frost yet here in the S of France, had to get that in, I might like to have a taught hood bag for any remaining sorties before the first salt, so when you're ready ..........
PS but it is PISSING IT DOWN !

Two hooks per side on the hood and two hooks per side under the chrome. You should also have push on U shaped channels on the hood cover which press onto the bodywork - no LTD fasteners on the outer body ( they were deleted after the first 500). I have driven 130mph+ with the hood bag in place (thank you France) and it remains rock solid even though there is some slack in the tie down straps. My process is:

1. Secure bag with tie down straps and internal LTD fasteners
2. Press U channels onto body
3. Connect all four hooks against pressure of hood frame
4. Adjust the U channels to ensure edge of bag is taught. If there is any slack the cover will lift.

Rory

I'm not sure how many hooks would be classed as standard. I've seen a number of different hood bags over the last few years, with varying numbers of hooks.
I've now got three along the back and like you two on each shoulder. In addition there is a push down U shaped guide behind each B post. These aren't a tight fit and only seem to be there to correctly position the bag immediately behind the side popper studs.
I did change the cabin studs for ones with a machine screw and securing nut on the boot side of the bulkhead. This eliminates any chance of them coming out under tension.

The stud tools I mentioned earlier can be found here:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30-x12mm-Popp ... 2a211834d9

I can now post links again because I'm back in dreary old Scotland.

Cheers

Alan

Alan

There is your problem - the U channels should be a really tight fit onto the body. Try closing them up with pliers and stretching the bag edge before pressing them into place. They are there to provide adjustable tension.

David

Thanks for the info, it seems obvious now. Although I'm still puzzled as to the logic behind the idea that two hooks on each shoulder would be enough to stop the hood bag ballooning.
I'll get my pliers out and start squeezing.

Cheers

Alan

It will only balloon if the rear edge is not taut - sometimes happens to me if I have put the bag on in a rush. Having to pull over at the next rest area teaches you to make sure you dress the thing properly before setting off!

David

I agree with you about the taughtness of the rear flap being crucial. But without any securing hooks it's well nye impossible to stop ballooning occurring. Rory's experience seems to support this.
In the absence of rear securing hooks ballooning will occur no matter how tight you're able to tension the side of the bag. Also increasing the side tension caused the bag to ride up over the hood frame, which was pretty unsightly. Again the addition of the rear hooks cured this problem.
As I said previously it's a mystery to me why hood bags are produced without the rear hooks already attached.

Cheers

Alan

I have the four 'corner' hooks but nothing at the rear. No ballooning during 50,000 miles of fast motoring.