Look alike alternators

NickJ · Post by **NickJ** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:36 pm

I am considering changing my dynamo now that I have a decent electric cooling fan fitted. My car is a 62 FHC and ideally I'd like to keep the looks correct under the bonnet. Although I have seen the lookalike dynamo alternator I have heard nothing on their reliability. I also have heard that a positive earth model may be available. Irrespective of this what is the concensus on the reliability of using this as opposed to a conventional negative earth alternator? Do they get hot by being constricted within what is a normal dynamo outer casing? Nick J Shropshire UK

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:01 pm

Hi Nick,

After having no end of problems with dynamos I changed to the Dynalite +ve earth alternator about 3 years ago.
The fit is straight forward and the regulator actually works. All my electrical problems disappeared so I can only recommend it. Downside is the cost when I bought mine it cost around ?550 but I wanted to keep my car reasonably standard looking as you do.
It was very reliable for the whole time I had it fitted to the car, I never noticed any heat build up either. I removed the fan from my dynamo and fitted it to the Dynalite.
I have now removed it and sold it on, the only reason I wanted to fit the EDIS ignition system.

Another downside of using +ve earth is you cannot use satnavs etc or I found LED lamps.

Dave

rfs1957 · Post by **rfs1957** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:23 pm

Dave,

Can you confirm that LED comment with +ve earth ? I was about to make a courtesy-light strip 35cm long above the centre instruments and had imagined the roll I bought (3M backing) from Germany as recommended by David would have an insulated back so would be indifferent ?
Many thanks, R

PS - your Individually-Tuned-To-Instrument-Voltage-Regulators are a great success !

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:05 pm

rfs1957 wrote:Dave,

Can you confirm that LED comment with +ve earth ? I was about to make a courtesy-light strip 35cm long above the centre instruments and had imagined the roll I bought (3M backing) from Germany as recommended by David would have an insulated back so would be indifferent ?
Many thanks, R

PS - your Individually-Tuned-To-Instrument-Voltage-Regulators are a great success !

Rory,

A few years ago I bought a rear/brake light LED lamp from Stoneleigh after fitting it didn't work so I took it back at the next spares day for a refund. As soon as I spoke to the guy he said +ve earth car, they don't work with +ve earth.
Not being electrical last night I tested the centre console light on the battery last night. I accidently connected it up +ve to the earth terminal and -ve to +ve terminal and they didn't work. Changed them round and they worked OK. This might not prove anything of course. It maybe that they work fine on the car.

Good news about the voltage reg, I found them a lot better than the stock items. Your bonnet plug is also a winner and now fitted-thanks for that.

Dave

288gto · Post by **288gto** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 9:44 pm

Dave and Rory,

LED bulbs are polarity sensitive so will only work one way, hence you stumbling across getting it to illuminate. This is why replacement LED car bulbs designed for neg. earth applications don't work if the polarity is critical. As regards the LED strip you mention, they will work fine. If they don't, just reverse the pos. and neg.
Hope that makes some sort of sense.

Simon

neil4444 · Post by **neil4444** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:35 pm

Hi,

There appear to be 2 main options on the market for lookylikey alternators - The Dynalite RAC007 40A ?420+ vs the WOSP Dynator LMDC42 50A ?340.

The price difference leads me towards the Dynator. Is the 10A extra output it also gives an advantage or will this cause me issues ?

Cheers,

Neil

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:10 pm

neil4444 wrote:Hi,
Is the 10A extra output it also gives an advantage or will this cause me issues ?

Assuming we all buy into the First Law of Thermodynamics (you never know on internet forums) it's a disadvantage and waste of fuel/power. That is, unless you need the extra 10A, in which case it's essential and you won't notice anyhow.

With a decent regulator it probably makes no difference if it only ever balances the load and generates no more than what it needs to (unless your wiring is borderline and you drive off at speed after a jumpstart with a flat battery...)

Pete

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Tue Jul 01, 2014 4:55 pm

PeterCrespin wrote:
neil4444 wrote:Hi,
Is the 10A extra output it also gives an advantage or will this cause me issues ?
Assuming we all buy into the First Law of Thermodynamics (you never know on internet forums) it's a disadvantage and waste of fuel/power. That is, unless you need the extra 10A, in which case it's essential and you won't notice anyhow.

With a decent regulator it probably makes no difference if it only ever balances the load and generates no more than what it needs to (unless your wiring is borderline and you drive off at speed after a jumpstart with a flat battery...)

Pete they come with the regulator so a decent one is a given. I don't think it will make much difference. I had the Dynalite and it was easily enough power for me. More than enough to make my ignition wiring go up in a puff of smoke last August!

Dave

Pete

paydase · Post by **paydase** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:16 pm

On my 3.8 FHC, the generator has been changed by the P.O and replaced by a look alike alternator keeping +ve.
The following picture shows the alternator in place and the disassembled generator put close by:

It's the Dynalite model sold by SNGB:

http://www.sngbarratt.com/AlternativeIt ... 4e56e&b=DE

I did not find out whether this model has an integrated regulator, the only technical specs available being the following:

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct. ... de=081.212

I am tempted to say there is no integrated regulator as I still see the regulator in place and connected, apparently an original one with its metal casing:

I doubt that two regulators might work in the same circuit without conflict. Could somebody confirm there is no integrated regulator in the alternator?

Also, would it be recommended to change/upgrade the old regulator as they seem to be prone to failure and which model would you recommend?

neil4444 · Post by **neil4444** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:52 pm

Hi Serge,

The Dynalite is self regulating. See wiring section here:

http://www.powerlite-units.com/about-dynalites/

Regards,

paydase · Post by **paydase** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:55 pm

Thx a lot Neil!
Now I have to investigate my wiring...

neil4444 · Post by **neil4444** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:08 pm

No problem. I only know as I recently bought one. I also went for their dummy rb340 regulator option which acts as a 40A fuse. It also accepted the original rb340 cover which looks a little more authentic than the shiny plastic one they supply.

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Look alike alternators

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