The 'E' Type Forum

I hear much about the different suppliers of front frame sets and the fact that the more expensive set literally fall into place, whereas the others require , shall we say, encouragement . Reading the fabulous Porter definitive guide, page 169 top, refers to them requiring wellying into place. It occurs to me that the frames maybe should be under tension rather than relying purely upon the fixings to make the whole assembly rigid . It sort of makes some sense. Any enlightened thoughts out there ? If one set of frames is only being sold for more on its ease of figment I wonder whether that is an incorrect assessment?

Yes I had seen that reference too - as cars get rebuilt I think the quality of work improves and people are quite surprised by how relatively poor some of Jaguar's fit and finish was in years gone by. Check out hand painted XK spare wheel housings and door edges not lining up -

Barrie

Frames not fitting at the Factory was down to build quality rather than design. Once you have tried ill-fitting frames you too will resort to crow-bars and lump hammers. Standing back and realising one is pointing upwards and the other downwards will give you a reality check. Buy E-Type Fabs frames because everything under the bonnet requires them to be spot on.

I am in no way advocating poor workmanship by there is a case for the stressing of a structure being more secure. Think tent poles and bridges ? If it is possible to make them fit perfectly why do some manufacturers not bother then?

That's the same for many parts...because they can get away with it and we still by them, just look at the post re Uriks frames at etype fans when the price went up to take into account the cost involved in making them, there were many complaining and looking for cheaper frames even though on this forum they were recommended as the best available...Steve

andrewh wrote:...there is a case for the stressing of a structure being more secure. Think tent poles and bridges ? If it is possible to make them fit perfectly why do some manufacturers not bother then?

No, there is no case whatsoever for assuming that frames which need to be 'sprung' into place are any more secure than correctly-fitting ones, unless you don't intend tightening the fasteners.

I'm not an engineer but it seems obvious that since even ill-fitting frames can be fitted using hand tools, the forces due to misalignment are in the order of pounds, whereas the structural forces the frames are designed for are in the order of tons I expect. Ergo, a few pounds a case do not make, tents notwithstanding.

As for some manufacturers 'not bothering', perhaps they bother very much but they don't know whether to retrain their staff, use better trchnique and materials, or build a better jig - or any combination of those and other factors?

I would have thought therefore if Robeys frames are so bad they would not have 70 sets on back order? There would be no issue other than ETF trebling the price overnight which is an awful bit of customer relations! I think there is an opening for someone to fill the gap ?2000 is the right price

Depends on how you value your time. My recent exploits with a new heater box from SNGB tells me I would gladly pay three times the price for something even approximating the original.

Sounds like your trying to convince yourself that a cheaper set will be just as good...truth is I don't know....only one way to find out...as for ?2k is the right price is that based on what you want to pay or what they cost to manufacture, in which case I'd like a ?20k S1 ots..

Buy some Robey ones from the usuals. If they don't fit send them back. My personal experience on a couple of cars is that the Robey frames are fine. FWIW, even refitting the original set of frames to a restored tub can be tricky and require some leverage and relieving of holes to get them on. Just because you've paid a premium for your new frames doesn't guarantee that they will fit perfectly with your car body.

Has anyone stamped up their own frames successfully ? By which I mean correct font without concaving the top surface when belting the stamp ?

2k seems a fair price but the feedback I have from body builders is that the Robey frames are fine. I guess it would be good to see a set off the car and measure them up when assembled to see how true they are. The point was made to me that one chap who has won many races with his E type runs Robey frames so they must be fairly straight

I have had very recent experience of poor quality frames from a well known supplier. They were mig welded, or at least the bonnet frame was and was so far out of alignment it was a joke.

I was told "oh they are all like that and we supply the top restorers"

I was advised offline against choosing anything other than you know who but I went ahead and did, they weren't even a perfect match for the originals. I got my money back eventually.

Buy once, buy right.

Welding is normal for the picture frame, albeit spot welding mostly.

Is there any benifit in strengthening the frames? If the frame is off the car anyway it could be a quick job if there is anything to gain from it? I`m a fairly new e type owner and is hoping that others with experience can point out the weak points in the original design. Or is it better to just buy a e-type fabs frame? From their old webpage it looks like they have been selling modified frames

Heuer wrote:Depends on how you value your time. My recent exploits with a new heater box from SNGB tells me I would gladly pay three times the price for something even approximating the original.

Hi Heuer,

I was wondering if you have a recomendation for a 'Heater box', my 62 FHC needs one and I don't now where to go.

Regards,

Olivier

Your only option is SNGB, just be prepared to adjust the box to fit. As you have a relatively early car you need to consider the thickness of the retaining ring and the type of end plate - the latter is reproduced, the former is not. Full details here: http://www.myetype.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 877#p58877

Try monocoque metalworks. http://www.monocoque-metalworks.com for a heater box.

You will have to import from the US, but it will be guaranteed to be spot on. I don't know if Chuck has ventured into front frame production though.

I can vouch for Chuck's heater box parts, he made some replacement parts for my heater box and they were an excellent fit.

Back on the subject of frames, Alty Ian on here, Mace and myself all bought frames from Uryk and they are absolutely first class in terms of fit and quality which unfortunately cannot be said for the bonnet underpan I bought from another major supplier. A £1000 component that required half as much again just to make it fit!

Simon

+1 for Uryk's frames. He'll stamp the chassis number on too.

andrewh wrote:Has anyone stamped up their own frames successfully ? By which I mean correct font without concaving the top surface when belting the stamp ?

Also interested in knowing whether any recommendations for this around here for doing it correctly.