Camber Setting Tools Required

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Tue Jan 19, 2016 5:07 pm

In preparation of removing the rear subframe for diff extraction there are two tools mentioned in the Service Manual and I wonder if anyone has them or knows where I could hire them from, basically they are for setting the camber

1) A hook and eye device for holding the suspension in the mid setting position - Churchill tool no. j.25

2)Gauge for measuring the camber angle.

Many thanks

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:38 pm

The easiest for 1 is to make your own using stiff wire/rod of perhaps 3mm diameter . The dimensions are in the workshop manual and I think there is a drawing there as well. 2 is more fiddly, but I usually use a spirit level with a vertical gauge as well as a horizontal one, held vertically, then measure the horizontal amount the wheel is out of true and the perpendicular distance between the outermost parts of the tyre at which the measure is taken. A bit of trigonometry then gives you a precise answer for the degrees away from vertical . If you are not so fussy, you can use the 1 in 60 rule i.e. 1mm horizontal in 60mm vertical is 1 degree out etc - this is quite accurate enough for these purposes

Post by **mgcjag** » Tue Jan 19, 2016 9:06 pm

Hi Richard....if your removing the IRS you can set up the camber angles with it on the bench....its much easier to add or remove the shims to adjust with it off the car...as Christopher said above quite easy to make up some links..and work out the angle or a cheap camber gauge from ebay......details are on the forum if you search...but its quite easy to work out how to do it....if you get stuck we can point you in the right direction.. Steve

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Wed Jan 20, 2016 11:52 am

Thank you gents - I certainly favour on the bench adjustment, laying on the workshop floor is not comfortable in these temperatures!

JagWaugh · Post by **JagWaugh** » Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:46 pm

richard btype wrote:Thank you gents - I certainly favour on the bench adjustment, laying on the workshop floor is not comfortable in these temperatures!

AFAIK you can't set it on the bench unless you get the base sitting at exactly the same angle(s) as it is when fitted to the car. Having said that I did do mine on the bench in the hope that it will end up right.

As to the kit, it is really, really high tech and expensive.... a couple of largish turnbuckles from the hardwarestore, a plumb line, a ruler and a bit of trickometry.

Andrew

Post by **mgcjag** » Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:59 pm

Really easy to do out out the car...sit diff bottom plate raised up on blocks......a spirit level to check and get the top of the irs cage level, a ?16 gunson camber gauge from ebay (or use trigamometry), on the end of the hub..... home made setting links,..disconnect dampers and add or subtract shims till you get the angle you want......probably the easiest job you can do on the irs apart from greasing it

vee12eman · Post by **vee12eman** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:24 am

Hi.
I did it on the floor using an iPhone app for the angle. Other smart phone apps are available! Just make sure the IRS is level. As to the tool, it's a JD25. Dimensions are in the Haynes manual but I found them easily online and made my own. Tricky to install them on a car because it is hard to compress the suspension far enough but perfectly possible. Use weight in the rear of the car and an assistant. I was surprised how far the rear went down when they were installed but I did manage it single handed. The manual then tells you how much each shim adjusts by and you jack it up and do it. I think it's tricky to get the shims in from below and installing the bolts also a pain but again quite possible apparently.

Regards

Simon

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 7:08 am

I've only ever done this once and with the IRS on the car. I can't honestly see that doing it with the IRS off the car can be accurate as it doesn't allow for weight variation side to side in the car. AS always though I'm prepared to be educated..

What I did.

Measure your rear camber.

Jack up the car.

The driveshaft is easy to remove after you take off the shocks.

Add or subtract the correct number of shims to correct your camber. IIRC each 20 thou shim is 0.25 of a degree.

Post by **1954Etype** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 8:19 am

Only 1 thing to add to Andrews list, make sure the rear axle is settled by driving it for a couple of miles if you have just jacked up the car and lowered it without using it.

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 2:07 pm

Thanks to all for additional input.

I've decided to check the camber angle after locking the suspension in the midway setting, (and while it is still on the car) before starting the dismantling phase to observe how it is presently set up.

Once the unit is re assembled I plan to fabricate a simple bench jig, set to a level, and lock it down for stability. Remove the springs and dampers to be able to lock the unit in the midway setting (with a measured rod I will make) and then check with a gauge against a (true but tyre less) wheel rim fitted (and tightened to the axle). I think that should do it but comments welcome..

JagWaugh · Post by **JagWaugh** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 2:59 pm

Richard,

If you mike the shims and disc hat thickness, record the change in the hub spacer and the changes to the OP shaft shims of the diff you should be able to get back to the original setting with some simple arithmetic. If you swap the halfshafts side to side then everything is for naught.

Andrew

Post by **mgcjag** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 3:37 pm

Hi Richard.....the first time i ever tried to set up tne rear instead of adding weights i had a 16st friend sit in tne boot.....this was nowhere near enough to compress the suspension enough to fit the setting links

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 4:30 pm

Thank you Andrew - points noted.

Mcjag, I am assuming you mention those comments for measuring before removing from the car and if so I wonder if one were to remove the wheel and jack up the rear via the hub - would this not enable the link to be fitted under compression?

On the bench with the springs and dampers removed there would be no resistance...

Post by **mgcjag** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 4:54 pm

Hi Richard....yes re before removing from car....no you cant jack up the hub it just lifts the car..if you measure now with the car sitting on the ground you will see that where you fit the link is a larger measurement than the actual link....hence the suspension needs compressing to fit it........the manual actually says..with the car on level ground fit one end of the setting link in the lower hole of the rear mounting and depress the body untill the other end of the link can be slid over the hub fulcrum nut...repeat for outher side....have a read in the manual page K.15.....

richard btype · Post by **richard btype** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 6:33 pm

Hmmm see what you are saying - maybe the 'on car' initial setting has to be forgotten...

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