Creaking noise at low speed

[andrewh]

As I drive slowly over slightly uneven ground I am getting a creaking noise coming from the front of the car. I THINK it's the bonnet moving in relation to the tub, and perhaps squeaking on the bonnet catches? Anyone experienced this and got a fix? I need to do a full spanner check in case some have slightly loosened now I have covered 1800 miles since completing the restoration

[Heuer]

Do you have polybushes fitted?

[andrewh]

no polybush. I wonder whether the torsion bars ever squeak, only I guess if there is any loosness in the bolts. I need to do a FULL spanner check again I think.

[caveman]

I have a similar creak that stems from a front shock absorber. Not from the bushes but internal as it moves up/down. Lubrication is difficult due to the top gaiter/cover.

[andrewh]

I think I have sorted out what it is. i am sure its the bonnet catches on the bulkhead rubbing metal to metal. there must be a little movement as the car flexes over uneven ground. any one worked a fix out for this?

[Heuer]

Check all the bolts securing the frame to the body and picture frame. Mine all needed nipping up. If the body has been painted without the frames on, the paint will creep over time leaving them loose. There was some research done in the 60's by Pressed Steel on the torsional rigidity of the E-Type frame/monocoque and it makes interesting reading. You can find extracts from it on page 252 of Porter's Definitive History book. Essentially the report says the torsional rigidity of the E-Type in whole is pretty poor because of the front frames. The FHC moococque itself is very stiff though.

[andrewh]

thank you David. I had already thought of that, and you are quite correct that some needed a pinch up. I have not been able to get to them all yet, need to put the car on the ramp. Plus the top inner bulkhead ones I will need to pull the trim down inside to hold the nuts, which I am not too keen to do, now its all nicely trimmed. It has improved, but without doubt the noise is coming from the drivers bonnet catch as if you hold it when it creaks you can feel the vibration from the hook on the bonnet catch. I had heard of this before, and was told they all do it, and E type UK had tried a number of fixes such as fitting a bit of clear fuel pipe, cut and placed over the metal bar to reduce metal to metal. Will see if that helps. Its not a real problem, but when I hear a squeak or rattle I am minded to eliminate it! Will report back .

[Moeregaard]

Sounds like the bonnet-latch locating pins rattling in the receivers on the bulkhead. I went through this exercise and spent many hours getting things done up right, before the rattling went away. The rubber bobbins have to be in perfect shape as well. David's point regarding loose subframe bolts is a good one as well. Also, I would check to see if the poly bushes on the bonnet pivot bolts have broken up. There are a jillion things in an E-Type that can cause rattles!

[andrewh]

thanks, as I said I am sure its the bonnet locating pins rattling in the receivers. Not sure how to solve this. All the rubbers and bushes are brand new. Am going to get it on the lift and continue with my tightening up exercise.

[Heuer]

is the bonnet hard to close? There should normally be sufficient resistance from the top rubber, the retaining pin rubbers and the heater box seal to prevent any movement. I have to press down on the bonnet before I am able to close the locking levers.

[1954Etype]

We had a problem with a weird noise coming 4hrough the bulkhead. Turned out to be the repro bonnet safety catch rubbing against the receiver, a quick bit of judicious bending soon solved it.

[Moeregaard]

David is correct. The key to a rattle-free bonnet is to adjust everything so that there's always a slight pre-load, i.e., tension, on the bonnet when the latches are engaged. If you have to push down slightly on the bonnet when engaging the latch, you've probably got things right. Another potential source of rattles is a worn or missing mudguard seal (that big, flat piece of rubber), which can allow metal-to-metal contact between the mudguard and bonnet internals.

[andrewh]

I have been exploring the rattle/squeak a bit more and I have a question. When the bonnet catches are fully home and locked it is possible to waggle the rod and hook a bit, back and forth so when locked the hook can move back and forth a bit. I wonder whether this is the likely cause and whether I should adjust the rods so there is no free play. It would seem that would be sensible as long as the hook moves fully over when the catches are latched there should be no slack in the mechanism. any thoughts.

[Heuer]

Should be no slack. also there should be a neoprene seal BD19895 on the locking handle to act as a buffer.

[andrewh]

thank you David. I will investigate. I am hopeful this may be the problem, at least it should be eliminated anyway. If I recall, one removes the spring clip and wind the rod into the chrome handle until the is no slack when fully home and locked?

[Keith in Norfolk]

Try pressing the bonnet above the release catch. If it creaks (if it sounds like a seal oink oink ) then this is your problem.
I had the same creak and a little bit of bending and some grease soon did the trick.

[politeperson]

With the bonnet open shake the engine by grabbing the carbs.

My low speed creak turned out the be the air filter halves rubbing together at low rpms.

[andrewh]

Thanks. Definitely not the air
Cleaner as I don't have it fitted ! It's pretty much gone now I have re adjusted the catches but think I need to do the near side hook catch a bit more.