Radius Arms

[richard btype]

In releasing the radius arms I have just drilled around the rubber part of the bush to release it from the cup, then cut and split the outer cup.

But as a matter of interest is there any suitable pulley to remove them intact?

Unfortunately the thread on the bolt and the female thread are damaged so will have to fit a helicoil, the thread is damaged (I believe) from the bolt being too long as it protrudes into the cavity and is attacked by rust causing damage when being withdrawn.

[Moeregaard]

You've pretty much detailed my preferred method of removal. There's just nothing there for a puller to engage. I always apply a quality penetrant and allow it to sit overnight before attempting removal. If the bush is a bugger to remove it's probably been on there a long time anyway, and a prime candidate for replacement. I lather everything with copper grease--bolt threads included--so subsequent removal becomes less problematic. You mentioned that the bolts used in your situation were too long and obviously incorrect. I hope they were at least drilled and properly lock-wired per factory specifications.

[mgcjag]

Hi Richard you can lever them off....from underneath put a large screwdriver/lever in betweern the cup and bush, use an old nut and slip in between the lever and cup, then lever up against the nut to release bush down.......you will obviously need lots of penetrating oil.....have done this quite a few times on very seized bushes......for anyone with a 2+2 car they can reinsert the retaining bolt into the cup but from inside of he car then screw it down onto a short spacer instead of a nut to push the bush off (jack screw)



Or you could use a podger heal bar ...put the hook in to replace the lever and nut http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-4-Piece-P ... SwADNXPY2Q

[richard btype]

mcjag - I've not come across those podge levers before but look like a rather useful addition to the tool box! I wonder however whether the threaded section of the body cup would become bent in the process of exerting pressure?

The reverse screw action looks like a good bet for a nicely centralised pressure point but this method is not available (by your comment) to the non 2+2.

Moeregaard - Thankyou for highlighting the wired bolts for mine did not have them fitted, in part that is my ommision, I did not fit these when I dropped the rear subframe approx 2 years ago to replace the 4 brake piston assemblies (there were none fitted then and no drilled holes to highlight they were missing).

What have I learned?
The replacement bolts arrived this morning 7/16ths, those fitted to the car were 1/2ins UNF which is noted as being the size used on the 2+2. On speaking to the supplier we can only deduce that when replacement cup plates were fitted to the body at sometime in the 80's they were for a 2+2…

They found some 1/2ins and an 1 1/8ins in length which will fit the thread and not protrude further into the hollow space, I will drill the heads to accept some ss locking wire - but wonder where should the locking wire attach to?

I intend to bombard the inside of the cup with waxoyl.

It always interests me when revisiting areas to observe how well or poorly they have maintained their condition to assess future maintenance and quality of parts.

Firstly the necessity of having to replace 4 expensive SS brake piston assemblies due to a very poor two piece design (of the pressure chamber) is very disappointing, I'm now fitting a set that were virtually half the price and a one piece casting as per the originals. (also very disappointing that the supplier and manufacturer just don't want to know). So brake fluid was leaking from between the two halves contaminating the pads and discs.

The rear bushes on the radius arms have already started to show deterioration in the rubber, the fronts of course not possible to check after being mullered in extraction.

Suprised by the level of rust that had gained a hold on the exposed end of the front radius arm bolt threads, the bolts were new and the plating has not withstood attack after approx. 2years old and this is hardly an everyday car or parked in a damp environment.

Now its off for a further play in the workshop...

[mgcjag]

Hi Richard.....the safety wire goes through the bolt head and around the safety strap....as per the manual.....also when refitting the radius arm bushes get them in the right way around....lining up the holes in the rubber as per the drawing in the manual

[richard btype]

Thanks Steve - will refer to manual...

[E600]

Hi
I am not sure about the 1/2 unf bolt you describe I didn't think there were any differences across the models, in fact I am pretty sure they are the same for S Type, Mk 10, XJ etc.

Sounds like yours were previously damaged, drilled and tapped from standard 7/16 up to 1/2.

Regards
Pat

[chrisfell]

Hi Richard you can lever them off....from underneath put a large screwdriver/lever in betweern the cup and bush,
Or you could use a podger heal bar ...put the hook in to replace the lever and nut http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-4-Piece-P ... SwADNXPY2Q

.....or a large open ended spanner. That's what I used, and it worked a treat.

[richard btype]

Hi
I am not sure about the 1/2 unf bolt you describe I didn't think there were any differences across the models, in fact I am pretty sure they are the same for S Type, Mk 10, XJ etc.

Sounds like yours were previously damaged, drilled and tapped from standard 7/16 up to 1/2.

Regards
Pat

Pat - I gleaned this information from an old parts catalogue possibly 'Robey' (not the Jaguar gold book) which I keep handy in the workshop (1/2" for 2+2) it is noted with a jaguar part number. The locking straps are similarly dimensioned.