Radiator leak repair or replace?

[Piscator]

My S2 radiator is leaking at the top seam above the core, engine side. Would members recommend repairing (with re-core) or replacing with new?

Can the radiator be removed and replaced without removing the bonnet?

Thank you for your views,

John

[tim wood]

Can’t answer your question on repair or replace
But it can be removed and replaced ( with care) whilst the bonnet is in place. My suggestion is to protect the core with thick cardboard during the process.

Tim

[mgcjag]

Get it repaired.....Steve

[Gfhug]

If you disconnect the bonnet strut (or springs) you can let the bonnet open wider to give you better access. Let the bonnet rest on thick cushions or similar.
I’ve heard good reports for NAR in Northampton for rebuilds, not used them myself.

Geoff

[Piscator]

Thanks, Tim, just what I hoped to hear.

Steve, thanks, I will go with that. There shouldn't be any issues over fitting!

Geoff, good advice, thank you.

Regards
John

[44DHR]

As part of my winter service this year, I went all through the cooling system, replacing all hoses and getting the radiator re-cored by NAR.
I spoke to Andy Hornby there and he could not have been more helpful. The job was skilfully done with a quick turnaround and very well packed.
As my radiator was the original one, I requested the original Northampton Autorads manufacturers plate was retained, which they duly did.
I removed the radiator with the bonnet on and once the header tank and mounting bracket was removed, by putting cardboard protection on the radiator, it was lifted out ok.
Regards,
Dave

[Piscator]

Hi,Dave,

Thanks for your post and advice. At first glance, I thought my radiator was different from yours, then realised your car is a S1 (the clue was there---header tank!)

I will certainly contact Andy at NAR.

Thanks again, Dave
Regards, john

[Piscator]

I finally had my radiator repaired and re-cored.

I have some further questions:-

1. I am missing the foam pad that sits on the radiator. The pad is to presumably block the passage of air over rather than through the radiator. How critical is it to have this pad?

2. On my car the otter switch is not wired up. Instead I switch the fans on manually. Would it be desirable or possible to link in the otter switch (or modern alternative), and retain the manual over-ride?

3. How critical is it to have the correct thermostat for the S2 (which closes the by-pass) and is there any way of checking if the correct thermostat is fitted without actually taking it out?

Thank you in advance for your replies.

John

[johnetype]

1. It's not critical. It's a nice to have, especially if originality matters to you but unless you're going to push your car hard in high external temperatures, don't worry. I don't have one. My car is still on its original radiator which must have some loss of efficiency by now but I've never had an overheating problem. In stationary traffic it's irrelevant as the fans are pulling air through the radiator from behind.

2. Certainly desirable so you don't miss turning the fan on under high stress conditions. Just wire your override switch in parallel to the Otter switch and you'll have the benefit of both options. I'm using a modern replacement for the Otter switch; cheaper and more reliable.

3. If your inlet manifold has the correct extension/thermostat housing for a Series 2 then you'll have the later more common thermostat with the disc rather than sleeve bypass arrangement. Many Series 2s that started as Stromberg equipped LHD cars when converted to RHD and triple SUs have used the 3.8 manifold without the thermostat extension piece and you end up in a world of pain trying to run a sleeve thermostat which wasn't the original fit. The giveaway clue - apart from the lack of the housing itself - is an extension section in the top hose to allow it to reach the manifold.

However, when you replace the radiator you should be replacing the thermostat anyway because they degrade over time and a new one is cheap insurance for a correctly working cooling system. Also, whilst you have the thermostat housing open clean out the inevitable corrosion inside partly or fully blocking the bleed feed pipe to the radiator.

[Piscator]

Hi,John,

Many thanks for your very clear and precise answers.

I would propose to:-

1. not bother with the foam pad,

2. fit a modern replacement for the otter switch, whilst retaining the over-ride and

3. fit a new thermostat.

Thanks, John, for your advice. You have been most helpful.
Regards

John

[TexasJagMan]

To: Johnetype,
What "modern equivalent" switch did you use in place of the original otter switch and from whom did you purchase it?
Thanks,
Spike