Upper Steering Column Bearings

[JerryL770]

Well ......

............. if you think about it, the circumference of the race is larger at the larger diameter and smaller at the smaller diameter. So the needle has to roll differing distances top and bottom meaning the top diameter of the needle should be larger else part of it must skid.

I this instance (steering column), this would be of little significance I reckon

[mgcjag]

Hi Jerry...never gave it that much thought..assumed they would be parallel rollers....will have to get them measured.. Steve

[mach2andy]

Hi Steve
I've just found a source for the wavy washer thats part of the lower bearing arrangement. Mine was broken as I think is quite common. Let me know if you need to source one and I'll pass on the details.
ATB
Andy

[angelw]

Steve Wrote:

never gave it that much thought..assumed they would be parallel rollers....will have to get them measured..

Hello Steve,
They are parallel. Given the steep taper of the bearing (Cone, Cup and Needle Race), the rollers would have to have quite a considerable taper so as not to skid; they skid.

I tried for a long time (without success) to get a bearing like the original. You may get lucky, but I doubt they exist.

One very common issue is that the bearing surfaces of the Cone and Cup suffer from Brinelling. In extreme cases you can feel it through the steering wheel, but in moderate instances, it's effect can be heard when turning the steering wheel. Accordingly, to complete the repair when replacing these roller bearings (if they were available), the bearing surfaces of the Cones and Cups should be re-machined. In doing so, the case hardening will either be removed altogether, or diminished, leading to accelerated Brinelling.

When Using Turcite to replace the roller bearing, unless the Brinelling is really serious, there is no need to re-machine the Cone/Cup surfaces. The Turcite is glued to the Cone surface (the valleys of the Brinelling holds a small amount of the glue - an advantage) and the valleys of the Cup Brinelling will hold a small amount of lubricant for a considerable time. However, Turcite can be run dry in this application.

Regards,

Bill

[Julian.P]

The needles are parallel so it’s an easy mod providing your cage is serviceable.
Regards, Julian.

[Steve Marshall]

Hi

I would be happy to sell you my unused solid bearings from SNGB at 2/3rds new cost!

Nothing really wrong with having a well greased solid bush replacement, just not quite pukka.


Steve

[mgcjag]

Thanks Steve.....the column is on a friends car ...a replacement column has now been sourced......but would be good to find a source for the original style roller type....but think its a lost cause.... Steve

[Steve Marshall]

There have been two S2 columns on eBay this week. First time I ever saw even one.

Why commission a unique taper roller bearing for a non-demanding application on a low volume car? Only Jaguar engineers would have known.

Steve

[tim wood]

Hi all,
I’m going to start rebuilding my steering column and have been reading up on the causes and cures for the slight up and down play in the top bearing.
Haven’t got it apart yet but if the bearing needs replacing has anyone used the solid bearing kit available from SNG. The listing notes that machining is needed? I don’t have a lathe etc so any thoughts on what machining is needed?

Thanks
Tim

[angelw]

Tim Wrote:

I don’t have a lathe etc so any thoughts on what machining is needed?

Hello Tim,
Looking at the picture of the parts, the steel and brass parts on the left are the bearing cup and cone at the top end of the column and the other parts are for the bottom end. I suspect the machining required is to fit the brass part to the left and the steel part to the right into the steering column tube, top and bottom locations respectively.

It would be important to have the bearing surfaces of the two components being installed in the tube to be concentric and parallel to each. Therefore, the bores into which these two components are to be installed would need to be machined true with each other. The OD of the parts supplied to fit into the tube may be oversize for this purpose. It is highly likely that the existing bearing surfaces are not true if the car has been in a shunt at some time. I've inspected many over the years from cars that clearly haven't been in any accidents and the bearing surfaces are not true. This is not to say that the replacements should not be fitted true and correct. If you're going to do, or have the job done, have it done correctly.

I've not handled the kit from SNGB; accordingly, my previous comments are based on an educated guess. I repair this system in a different manner; but machining is still required. I replace the needle roller with a material called Turcite. Its an anti friction material used on machine tool slide ways. This material is glued to the bearing surfaces in the steering column tube and then machined true.

If it is the Steering Column Tube that needs to be machined, its not the easiest exercise for anyone not reasonably experienced with using a lathe past just turning a piece of shaft or machining a bore.

Regards,

Bill

[johnetype]

In many cases the play in the bearing is due to no more than the wavy washer at the bottom being broken so do check the washer before embarking on machining etc. to replace the roller bearings with solid cones.

[tim wood]

So, I’ve disassembled the column and cleaned up the casing and bearings. Thankfully the plastic cages were in ok condition. So a re grease and reassemble with a new wavey washer and all seems fine. No need for any new bushes so it seems.
The column joint was however showing signs of wear so I shall replace that and it’s job done
Hopefully!